The_DropOut
Well-known member
bubba22349":1u9jye6t said:The valve cover with Powered by FORD stamped onto it would be period correct for your 68 / 69 block. Very early 144 and 170 engines would have had the plain valve cover or block lettered valve cover would only be important if you wanted to keep car original looking to year it was built. Some years of engines will have the oil fill at the back and the pcv at the front and some have it the opposite it dose not really mater only that the PCV and breather are placed at opposite ends of the valve cover. It is also important that a valve cover has baffling were the PCV valve is installed to help keep it from drawing in excessive oil. 15 or 20 PSI at idle RPM would be safe.
Thanks Bubba
anotherhassel":1u9jye6t said:I must respectfully disacred. The valve cover in the pics is not correct. On my 68 block and head the powered by for is in script. Also the oil fill tube is in the front and made from steel no rubber grommets..
Thanks Another Hassel
79granada":1u9jye6t said:the cover in the picture is identical to my 79 250
Thanks Granada.
As far as valve covers go, I’ve learned a lot. All of them seem to fit the head. But there are vast differences above the gasket flange. The newer covers are taller and wider.
I did install an early valve cover on my block. It fit but just barely. My pcv was not protected by a shroud and I did suck oil, seeing a few puffs of blue smoke from time to time. Also I noticed that idle speed was reduced, maybe because the vac line flow was slowed by oil.
I tried to build a shroud for this cover and I was not able to guarantee that the rockers would clear, so I scrapped the idea and ruined a cover.
UPDATE:
On Friday I decided to take the Ranch to work. It is a great test run because I know the landmarks of where I can expect to get oil pressure issues. Thursdays test of idling the motor in the carport made me believe that I had found a solution to the mysterious oil pressure.
BUT the drive to work proved that I have not cured the motor of its odd oil pressure issues. The oil pressure issues still exist.
I noted that this time the oil pressure was great for quite some time. Then something happens that causes the pressure to slowly drop down to 20psi while maintaining 1500+ rpm. At stop lights the oil pressure remains at 20psi then climes up to 30 and quickly back down to 20.
BUT on my way home I took a different route which caused me to drive a longer distance. At one point on my way home, close to my house, the oil pressure returned to normal operation. I don’t know what caused the change.
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I purchased a WIX oil filter and will install that this weekend. I will put my motors valve cover back on. Changing nothing else, I will drive to work and back to see if the oil filter is the villian. Currently I’m running a FRAM oil filter.
My local Baxter Auto parts just installed a display showing an exploded view of a Wix filter. I know what a Fram looks like inside, because I’ve cut two of them open. The Wix filter is MUCH better built, designed and has a real good filter.
I’ll let you know if the filter caused any change to my condition.
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QUESTION: How do I test the oil pressure regulator? Is the oil pressure regulator built into the oil pump? I think I threw my old pump away after my rebuild so I dont have anything to look at right now.
Thanks