Fresh 200 with oil drip issues

Excellent, I think you will be good to go than

Yeah those bent oil pans have also been responsible for people thinking they have a rod or main bearing knock. Then when they pull them off and straighten them up and they are good to go.

bubba22349":2hk2ifvn said:

Excellent, I think you will be good to go than

Yeah those bent oil pans have also been responsible for people thinking they have a rod or main bearing knock. Then when they pull them off and straighten them up and they are good to go.

Click to expand...

Lesson to anyone out there. Dont jack you car up via the oil pan ((Which I have never done)). If you buy an old motor which has been sitting on its pan, look the pan over carefully. ((my motor was sitting on its pan)).

More soon, the parts are in transit.

Confucius say: The one part you need the most will always arrive LAST!

UPDATE:

All the parts have arrived!!









This weekend is going to be a fun one. Installing the new parts and then the day of discovery to see if the oil pressure mystery has been solved.

ALSO:

While talking with Bruce at the local garage, we’d discussed my noisy valve train. He suggested that I might not have the correct length pushrods.

Back home I pulled my cover and pulled out a push rod. SURE ENOUGH! I had 8.300” rods. The book called for 8.350” or 8.410” (difference depends on rocker arm angles).

I have no way of measuring my rocker arm angles. So I decided to purchase 8.350” pushrods from Schneider. They offer an awesome pushrod in a host of sizes.

The new pushrods arrived today.



So I’ll be getting rid of valve clatter (I HOPE) too.

Thanks

That is super progress!

FWIW, I do not have a gasket between the pump and the block. There wasn't one on the motor when I took the pump off, and I didn't put one on when I put the pump back on. I couldn't find any reference to one anywhere. I found a couple posts on various Mustang forums that all seemed to agree that if there ever was a gasket specified there, it's been discontinued a long time and isn't necessary. With that information I put the engine in the car and didn't worry.

I did pull the pan & pump on my '62 motor and it doesn't have a gasket either. I don't have an oil pressure gauge in my car (just the idiot light), but when I first started the car with the new motor the filter filled instantly and there was no clatter or noise. I don't think a gasket for the pump is a bad idea, but I also don't think it's necessary. There is a large flange there at that mating surface and the surface is well-machined. It should seal just fine. *Should*.

thesameguy":287a8w16 said:

That is super progress!

FWIW, I do not have a gasket between the pump and the block. There wasn't one on the motor when I took the pump off, and I didn't put one on when I put the pump back on. I couldn't find any reference to one anywhere. I found a couple posts on various Mustang forums that all seemed to agree that if there ever was a gasket specified there, it's been discontinued a long time and isn't necessary. With that information I put the engine in the car and didn't worry.

I did pull the pan & pump on my '62 motor and it doesn't have a gasket either. I don't have an oil pressure gauge in my car (just the idiot light), but when I first started the car with the new motor the filter filled instantly and there was no clatter or noise. I don't think a gasket for the pump is a bad idea, but I also don't think it's necessary. There is a large flange there at that mating surface and the surface is well-machined. It should seal just fine. *Should*.

Click to expand...

I too have not found any gasket for the pump to block. But the head mechanic at the garage I got my info from said I should make one. The thickness of the gasket is very thin. he showed me some gasket paper as an example.

I have not decided if I'll use the gasket I have made. I'll let you all know when I get to that point. Tomarrow!!

Thanks

Don't use a gasket on the pump to block. Both surfaces are machined & that area is under full oil pump pressure.
In other words if the gasket blows there goes a lot of your oil pressure.
A gasket is used on the pickup screen tube to pump but that gasket necessary.
The mechanic who suggests a gasket from pump to block is dead wrong.
Please do not put a gasket between the pump & block.
Chevy does not use a gasket between the pump & the rear main bearing cap & most other engine that have both machined surfaces do not use a gasket either. Bill

WSA111, dude I appreciate your opinion. :thanks: This is a tuff one to nail down. I’ve read arguments from both sides of the fence about this.

Chevy might not use a gasket but it seems that many Ford big blocks do, Pontiacs do, and so do many drag motors which are running HV pumps.

The gasket I made is cut from a fiber type gasket material that is as thin as a match book cover. It is resistant to oil, gas, kerosene, ATF and water.

I still have not decided to use it yet. I’m still reading up on this one.

It’s funny to me that dragsters, running high volume pumps, almost all use a gasket between their pump and block. If any motor was machined to a fine tolerance it would be one of these motors. And if any gasket was to get blown away by a large strong volume of oil this would be the motor it should happen in first. Yet I’ve read many posts about guys making / or installing oil pump to block gaskets on these motors.

The counter argument to this is that a drag motor only has to survive ¼ mile at a time. And these motors are torn down and built back up faster than I can eat a bowl of corn flakes. So…The research continues.

Thanks for your honest opinions. It is obvious to me that there is no SINGLE way to doing anything. Several paths can all lead to the same place. Just got to choose the path.

UPDATE:

OK. All the picture parts were installed. I did the clearance test on the new pan and the gap between the pick up screen and pan bottom was a hair below ½”. Just a trace of white grease was found in the pan.

The pan was a real bear to put on. It looked straight, but once the four corner bolts were lightly installed I could see that the center bolt holes were not going to line up due to a slight bow in the pan side walls. I wrestled with that crap for some time. I don’t know who designed the 4 part oil pan gasket, but it sucks!

None the less, all was installed, oil was added and today I got a chance to drive it around.

Currently the oil psi starts at about 50 and once warmed fully, drops to 40psi.

Never once did the pressure drop below 40psi. I’ll take it out on a longer drive this weekend and see what the story is. Slowly broaden the “Circle of Trust” so to speak and regain some faith in this motor.

Thanks for all who commented, lent helpful advice and relayed personal experiences.

In three weekends is BilletProof Washington. I hope to put enough miles on my car to seek out any more issues before the long drive.

Thanks again.

so did the crankcase pressure issueever get solved?

Not really. I sitll get an occasional drip from the dip stick. I have no clue what that is about. But the mtor runs fine and I'm not about to tempt my fate again. hahaha.