Cooling problem

Hello,
Ever since I installed my Pertronix ignition I have had a cooling problem, if I drive on the freeway for to long it gets really hot. Yesterday it got the hottest it ever has, my temp gauge was like 80% over and when I got home I could hear/feel the water boiling in the hoses. When I drive on the streets I dont have any problems, just on the freeway. I am not sure how to fix this problem, I would appreciate any help you guys have.

-Brian

Lean burn or too much advance can cause an engine to overheat.

Did you check the timing after installing the Pertronix ? I have that also and I found a timing change when installed .

I will check the timing again.

8) you may need to power time the engine depending on how new your balancer is. too much or too little timing though can cause an overheating problem.

as pertronix, I'm guessing a vacuum advance, take the hose from the carb and blow to the advance, if it holds air your good. sometimes those canisters will go and that can cause over heating/driving issues.

it's possible that something came loose in the water system.

There is often a conversation about cooling. In motors this age, corrosion can be a problem, where the passages get plugged. You can clean out the cooling system with certain rust dissolving products. You might have a bubble or a pump impeller that came off the shaft. However, if it was running fine before and now that only one thing has been changed, look at the problems on the top end first: timing, advance, fuel mix.

"look at the problems on the top end first: timing, advance, fuel mix."

-I have been trying over and over to get this engine tuned right, it seems to be trial and error, as I dont have a whole lot of experience tuning these engines.
If I lower the timing to stock spec(8-10) the engine just put-put's around with absolutely no power. But, I advance it to much I get the heating problem. Also,
I am having the darndest time getting the right air/fuel mixture. As always, I can use advice. :help:
Thanks Guys!
-Brian

Are you using a gauge of some sort? Try a vacuum gauge. Connect it to a vacuum source below the carb, off the manifold. You might take the port for the transmission modulator or power brakes or some other capped bung. Hook up the vac gauge.

I assume you know where the fuel/air mix is located for the idle. With the wheels blocked and the engine in neutral, turn it in (clockwise) to where the engine starts to stumble. Then back it out slowly until the vacuum gets up to 18* or higher (peak vac). At that point, give it one more quarter turn. There is your optimum idle mix.

You can time it with the vacuum gauge too but others have said this will cause the engine to burn up. I don't know. At this point, you need to find true TDC and use a dwell tach with timing light to get it to spec.

What happens with the Pertronix is that more fuel is ignited at every point in the RPM curve. Thus you get more power. As a consequence you have to reset the idle mix and idle speed. I had to dial it way back when I put in the PtX. This might also be aggravating a vacuum leak somewhere.

I will buy the gauge. Thanks!
What is a "dwell tach"?
I have a timing light.

Classically, it is the meter that tells you how long your points stay open and closed, how long they 'dwell' in the closed position. It also works as a tach and reads other functions like voltage and such. Since you have changed out the points for Ptx, you don't need the dwell part but it will help you set the idle rpm, see if there are spikes or constant voltage.

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7605-Tac ... 395&sr=1-1

The other thing is that you have to have your true top dead center. There are a couple ways to do this. Use 'search' for a string that tells you how. I used the finger in the first spark plug hole and when the pressure builds, you know you are on the compression cycle. Before it was all the way through the compression stroke, I took my finger out, put a long screwdriver in through the hole and turned the crankshaft to where it stopped rising. That is TDC. I put a new white mark on the ring because mine had slipped. Now it is okay. Plus I can see it better with the timing light.

The crankshaft is easier to turn if you remove all the plugs first. Then put them back in to fire it up.

x2 on the slipped balancer issue. If you have a timing light etc, it does no good if the TDC mark on the balancer pulley has slipped and is not in the correct position. I had poor running and overheating until I fixed two things on my car.
1. Slipped Balancer
2. Distributor vacuum advance canister not holding vacuum

A bad vacuum advance canister will give you problems on maintaining an idle. And on the highway, if the vacuum canister is leaking, it will give you retarded timing which can overheat the engine with ease.
Doug

You can check the vac canister by sucking on the hose that runs to it and watching to see if the rotor pulls in one direction or the other.