minimum deck | Flat top | Cam 260

roghax85

Well-known member
Hello All

I am new on buil. this is first build, Ford 1966 200 cid,

block and cilinder head from 1966.

new valves: http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SIV-200-RSL
Stem: 5/16"
Intake: 1.750"
Exhaust: 1.380"
Installed Height: 1.68"

flat top Pistons to .20: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-W489P20/

cam 260: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K65-236-4/

Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,000-5,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 212
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 212
Duration at 050 inch Lift 212 int./212 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration 260
Advertised Duration 260 int./260 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.440 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.440 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.440 int./0.440 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110

cam of rod and main to 10

So: I need to know what is the minimum deck on the block to can use for daily and a CR max of 9.7

thanks
 
while static compression is amost common term dynamic is most important and can be figured if you know your combustion chamber size, current deck height , head gasket thickness and cam timing, this is onely accurate if you degree the cam which I recommend , comp grinds a 4 degree advance in their cams 110 degree ICL is actually 106 degrees but thats if all machineing tolarences are on the money . I run the 260 comp and it works well for my setup, check out this article on dynamic compression. http://www.classicinlines.com/CompressionR.asp ,
 
hello and thank you

MPGmustang":2acj6ega said:
how much deck is on the block now?
how big are the chambers on the head now?

The block and head are stock, just replace the valves.

so I guest the block deck height is the 0.019 and the chamber cc is 52?

Thanks
 
If you have'nt ordered the cam yet, i would suggest the clay smith 264 cam @ 112 l/c from classic inlines.
The 264 cam is much better than the 260 comp cam, probably at least 10 hp.
Clay smith cams are ground straight up which means if you want to advance it you will need an adjustable timing chain & gears.
The full roller timing chain has that feature & will last 10 times as long as the stock junk chain.
Mike also sells that full roller setup. Bill
 
The cam does not have to be degreed but in order to assure maximum performance and to verify the cam , and components have been properly machined it is recommended. changing the cam ICL will affect performance to a certain degree, advanceing the cam increases bottom end power and raises the dynamic compression slightly and retarding the cam adds top end power and decreases compression slightley. mainley degreeing verifies the cam timing if the cam , timing set, crank keyway is machined off 1 or 2 degrees on the same side just putting the cam in without degreeing could result in poor performance. I used the double roller timing set from C.I. and degreed to 106 1/2 degrees intake centerline. 106 was the number recommended by comp.
 
64falconsix":wt4xy25w said:
The cam does not have to be degreed but in order to assure maximum performance and to verify the cam , and components have been properly machined it is recommended. changing the cam ICL will affect performance to a certain degree, advanceing the cam increases bottom end power and raises the dynamic compression slightly and retarding the cam adds top end power and decreases compression slightley. mainley degreeing verifies the cam timing if the cam , timing set, crank keyway is machined off 1 or 2 degrees on the same side just putting the cam in without degreeing could result in poor performance. I used the double roller timing set from C.I. and degreed to 106 1/2 degrees intake centerline. 106 was the number recommended by comp.

Thanks

My english is very poor, sorry.

what is a "cam ICL" ?

I dont understand really, all it about the degree :( sorry. I think understand you say: the cam 260H is hight torque on low rpm?

I should really install the part that I haved, I cant get more parts. :( sorry.

the pictures:







do you have any video or picture about you did try to explain me? (sorry the English)

Thanks
 
Edit: ICL = Intake Center Line :nod:

echo1955 has a very good post on his 200 Mustang rebuild complete with pictures and video’s you might find it helpful. The part IV shows degreeing the cam. Edit: The posts with pictures for his Mustang 200 rebuild starts here:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=63640

Video's are here:

Rebuild 200 Part I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gg_VFXm8 ... ure=relmfu

Mustang 200 Rebuild Part II
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rn0aDH7t838&feature=plcp

Mustang 200 Rebuild Part III Find TDC
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbUeLAp6 ... re=related

Mustang 200 Rebuild Part IV Degree cam

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zj-GA494SJQ&feature=plcp

Mustang 200 Rebuild Part V
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZVaqsTrIsI&feature=plcp

Mustang 200 Rebuild Part VI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOW2Rb29Zts&feature=plcp

Mustang 200 Rebuild Part VII
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZM0Puddl2as&feature=plcp
 
bubba22349":2vf398cs said:
echo1955 has a very good post on his 200 Mustang rebuild complete with pictures and video’s you might find it helpful. The part IV shows degreeing the cam.


Rebuild 200 Part I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gg_VFXm8 ... ure=relmfu

Mustang 200 Rebuild Part II
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rn0aDH7t838&feature=plcp

Mustang 200 Rebuild Part III Find TDC
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbUeLAp6 ... re=related

Mustang 200 Rebuild Part IV Degree cam

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zj-GA494SJQ&feature=plcp

Mustang 200 Rebuild Part V
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZVaqsTrIsI&feature=plcp

Mustang 200 Rebuild Part VI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOW2Rb29Zts&feature=plcp

Mustang 200 Rebuild Part VII
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZM0Puddl2as&feature=plcp

Thanks man.
 
Ok I hope you can read this I will give it a try.Degreeing un arbol de lavas verifica la sincronization de la leva es cierto. ICL es centerline de admision , se trata de un punto de referencia donde se diseno el arbol de lavas a trabajar tal como fue disenado. retrasar o adelantar la fecha deun par de grados en cada sentido tendra un efecto sobre la forma en que la camara funciona. avenzar en darle par RPM mas bajas y retardo la el poder extremo mas alto. degreeing no es necesario pero le ayudara a comprobar que esta alcanzando el potencial de energia.
 
I didn't do any math, but with flat top pistons your compression ratio is going to be slightly over 10-1.
You might want to install the 260 cam @ 108 L/C to kill some of the compression.
After you get it together do a cranking compression test with the engine hot, remove all the spark plugs, disconnect the power to the coil & make sure the throttle is wide open.
You will probably have to run gasoline 91-93 octane cause i'm sure your cranking compression will be between 180#-195# Good luck on you build. Bill
 
wsa111":1za10d7m said:
I didn't do any math, but with flat top pistons your compression ratio is going to be slightly over 10-1.
You might want to install the 260 cam @ 108 L/C to kill some of the compression.
After you get it together do a cranking compression test with the engine hot, remove all the spark plugs, disconnect the power to the coil & make sure the throttle is wide open.
You will probably have to run gasoline 91-93 octane cause i'm sure your cranking compression will be between 180#-195# Good luck on you build. Bill


let met understang, if I let the deck like stock +0.019" and flat pistons whit the cam 260 whitout degree, I will have 10.1:1 about CR?

Thanks Bill
 
If you 0 deck the block, use a 52 cc combustion chamber, the fel pro head gasket and flat top pistons you will have a static compression ratio of 10.02 to 1 and a dynamic compression ratio of 8.32 with the cam set at 110 degrees ICL or a dynamic compression ratio of 8.55 with the cam advanced 4 degrees to 106 degrees ICL. A 0 deck with the specs you gave would require 93 octane or higher fuel to avoid the possibility of pre ignition (pinging ) and engine damage. running the numbers with a .019 deck height and a 106 degree ICL would result in a 9.55 static compression ratio and a 8.16 dynamic compression ratio which will run on 90 to 92 octane fuel and in my opinion would be better suited for a dailey driven street engine. the static compression ratio will stay the same for a given combo but the dynamic changes according to the closing of the intake valve. here are a couple of good links. http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm , http://www.classicinlines.com/CompressionR.asp
 
64falconsix":kildr7ss said:
If you 0 deck the block, use a 52 cc combustion chamber, the fel pro head gasket and flat top pistons you will have a static compression ratio of 10.02 to 1 and a dynamic compression ratio of 8.32 with the cam set at 110 degrees ICL or a dynamic compression ratio of 8.55 with the cam advanced 4 degrees to 106 degrees ICL. A 0 deck with the specs you gave would require 93 octane or higher fuel to avoid the possibility of pre ignition (pinging ) and engine damage. running the numbers with a .019 deck height and a 106 degree ICL would result in a 9.55 static compression ratio and a 8.16 dynamic compression ratio which will run on 90 to 92 octane fuel and in my opinion would be better suited for a dailey driven street engine. the static compression ratio will stay the same for a given combo but the dynamic changes according to the closing of the intake valve. here are a couple of good links. http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm , http://www.classicinlines.com/CompressionR.asp

Thanks

What I need to do a 9.6 to 9.8 CR? and let the cam to 110 (not degree)

Thanks man.
 
in my opinion if you do have a verified . 019 deck with the new pistons and a verified 52 cc combustion chamber and the block deck and head are flat I would not 0 deck but cut only to true the head and block surfaces if needed. If the timing set is non adjustable and there are no machining errors , in theory the cam set strait up should actually be at 106 ICL because comp grinds that series of cams with a 4 degree advance in them even though the cam card says 110 degree ICL. Although the 260 comp is a big improvement over a stock cam it is still a mild cam designed to work with stock engine components so you should not have any issues, I have always been told as a general rule that valve clearence on a flat tappet cam does not start to become a concern until the duration @ .050 exceeds 230 but I always check all clearences when adding lift and duration to the valve train.
 
You also need to add the head gasket "compressed thickness" for your measurement. But it will all depend on the cams lift at the time the piston is near or at TDC, it's not likely the cam will be a full lift at the same time. Stock cam spec were:

Dur. 256 and lift of .372 only .068 more lift so not much difference there with the thicker than stock head gasket is even less difference.

But to be sure you can use the simple "clay method" to check your valve to piston clearance and than you will know what you have. :nod:

http://www.fordmuscle.com/fundamentals/pistontovalve/
 
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