New carb

So not sure if you guys saw my thread about my mis but it turned out to be a vacuum leak. So I ordered these bearings that were supposed to fix the leaking throttle shafts. But they didnt mention that the bearings dont fit the dfav weber only the dgv weber :x. So i am now stuck with getting a new carb. So I guess my question is do I go back with the 32/36 or should I look into the 38? I have read Mikes tec on the both of them and it says the 32 may be better. However I also have been to Falcon fanatics web page and he has the 38 and had it on a pretty much stock engine before he did his head work yada yada yada. So I am pretty much stock with headers a weber (duh) and a petronix . I am looking to eventually get a duraspark but i need my car to run right now! It is idling so bad and she feels down on power all the way around. So any and all help is much appreciated!

Basically:

The 32/36 will give you better gas mileage since the primary is only 32 and the 36 secondary is progressive, coming in at higher rpm where flow is needed.

The 38 will give you more power at the expense of gas mileage. The 38 is synchronous, both butterflies operate together.

The choice it yours.

Will I lose throttle response with the 38?

No, you won't loose throttle response with a bigger carb without a mechanical secondary. The 38 is worth about 10 hp accross the board on engines in the 100 flywheel hp level.

You can't make a wrong step, either will do fine.

The 32/36 is just a nice economy carb which can be made to run well on anything, but the 38 is a better carb. All European V6 Ford ran a carb similar to the 38 Weber, but when exported to America, they downgraded the 2.6 and 2.8 German V6's to the 2.0/2.3 four cylinder 32/36 version for economic reasons.The 38 will make more power, and be just as ecomomical under normal running conditions on a Ford I6 because the head strangles the performance so much.

X I am glad that you chimed in. I value your opinion highly as I think you have a great wealth of knowledge. It is pretty much settled that I am gonna go with the 38 this time around. Thanks!

I do make mistakes, though. In this case, I've had lots of friends with GXL Capri 3000'S and European Granada Mk 1's with the virile 140 hp Essex 60 degree V-6 English engine.

They used a carb like the 38. Really good power, and good torque, and fuel economy was fine if you weren't always using the power on offer. Some of the Euro spec 135 hp Cologne 2.8's used that carb.


I spent a year with a Solex 35 2-bbl simultanoues carb on my 114 hp 2.3 Cologne V6. The other Fords ran the 32/38. Ford pacakaged the 2.8 and 3.0's and some 2.5 V6's with Webers, and they always gave good performance, and economy was based on how they were jetted, but the engines were always between 123 and 140 hp or so with the Weber 38, but the 32/36 was never above 102 hp on any application, except the 2.6 and 2.8's where they got close to 104 to 109 hp.

In two publications (A series Mini engine reworking, and Modifying Fords SOHC 1.3/1.6/2.0's), David Vizard said that Austin Rover and Ford were going to use the 38 on the Innocenti Mini 1275 and the Pinto 2000, where both makers found they were worth 10 hp up on the SU HS6 and 32/36, both carbs with around 245 and 227 cfm respectively at 1.85" Hg. So the performance benefit is there on unstrangled engines, how much more on a high vacuum 200 cube I6?

Since you can always jet down if its too rich or thirsty, there is really no point on going too small if your looking for better throttle response, as throttle response is power.

Guys so i received my new carb today. Mike thank you very much it is gorgeous,and shipping was super fast. it left Arizona Monday and got to NJ today. As far a power it feels very strong. Idle is perfect. However when you drop the pedal to the floor it bogs then goes. Now that being said I pulled the plugs and they are black, and the car stinks something awful when you rev it in park. Was so bad that playing around with it front of my garage that if you went in my garage your eyes would burn. So it sounds t me that the main jets are alittle on the rich side is that correct? Could the jets being too large cause the bog I am talking about? Other than these what appear to me as tuning issues she is running very strong low to mid throttle range it just wants to pull. Also when I make lefts it wants to stall should I raise the float up a bit to help with this?

Could be a carb issue, but could also be an ignition issue. Are your wires in good shape? Timing set correctly? Good coil? Good power to the whole system?

I have the same problem and have been told it is to rich. I a DUI with new wires from them and new plugs. I have been wanting to buy a kit with new jets but have not. I have been driving this way for about a year.

Ok so I adjusted the float today. This helped alot. However it still is a bit rich. I have 145 main jets 170 air correctors and cannot find the idle jet. I was able to set the carb initially the way Weber says too. So it still has a little bog but not as bad. Would up sizing the air corrector jets help? Maybe downsizing the main jets as well?