Cable throttle solution?

Asa

Asa

2K+
VIP
I know we've got more than a couple guys here that are running cable throttle systems. I need one because I have a Carter YF from an F150 on my Mustang.
Currently have installed the pedal from (I think) a Maverick, it sort of works, but doesn't give me near enough pedal travel, I have about 2" or so whereas my stock pedal was a good 6-8 inches. The Mav unit works in the meantime, but it has virtually no fine adjustment, I end up driving with Idle, Half-throttle, WOT.
Did a couple searches, but most of what I found was people deciding to run them due to issues with TriPower setups.


Only thing I can really find online is Lokar stuff for about $150 for only the throttle pedal, I'd then have to get brake and clutch pedals. I might go with this later, but right now I just need something to get her running.

Would not mind hitting up a junkyard and getting a pedal assy from some random car, but I need to know what to look for.
 
:unsure: You might check out the 75-77 Mavericks and Comets, my 77 Maverick 250 / C4 came stock with the YF,
 
IIRC all fords after about 1972 or so have cable linkage.
on my 80 Bronco I used a 85 F150 5.0 EFI throttle cable and a specte universal carb mount cable bracket.


also You mentioned needing clutch linkage(in that "other thread") , which linkage parts are you in need of?
 
80broncoman":3871p5ut said:
IIRC all fords after about 1972 or so have cable linkage.
on my 80 Bronco I used a 85 F150 5.0 EFI throttle cable and a specte universal carb mount cable bracket.


also You mentioned needing clutch linkage(in that "other thread") , which linkage parts are you in need of?
Click to expand...
I have the mounting bracket actually, found a good one off a Mav.
My problem is that every cable I find has a pedal that doesn't allow any real pedal travel.

As for the clutch, I'm not sure what I need. It seems like everything I have is damaged or cobbled together. I want at least pictures of brand new parts installed so I can figure what is wrong. Right now I think the z-bar was created from a good angled piece and a piece of pipe the right ID, but then welded maybe 5 degrees off. It puts the bar from the pedal to the z hard up against the firewall

I think I will pull my z-bar and heat and bend it so it is correct.
 
Can't help much on the cable linkage. The only conversion I ever did was on a '65 F100. Some PO along the lines had pulled the 240/3-on-tree and swapped in a 3oh2/C4. The motor was from a '77 Ford of some kind and they had left the factory throttle cable attached to the engine.

What I did.. With the factory throttle pedal, I took it out of the truck the locked it into a vice heated up the top half with a torch and turned the factory top end 90° so that the hole was facing the firewall. I then took a cutoff wheel and slotted the top of the pedal so a cable could slip through. I then bolted the pedal back into the truck and eyeballed a spot on the firewall directly in front of the newly turned throttle pedal hole. I drilled it to fit the snap coupler on the end of the factory Ford throttle cable. I connected the parts and it was done.

Now I would have to *assume* that if you follow these same steps you should be able to use any throttle pedal that will fit into the car. You may have to play with the fulcrum point (cut off or add length to) the top half of the pedal assembly to get the right 'pull'.

Now back to the Z-bar. I can't find the email now, but MustangSteve had some in stock. When he buys his bulk parts from wherever he gets them, he rebuilds the bent8 units but not the i6 ones. Shoot him an email, he may have one 'just laying around' for a reasonable price.

-ron
 
I can help. Done this many times with all my carb swaps.The answer is If you don't have enough gas pedal movement for smooth operation, you have to move the point r to get the right S.

Pedal travel is a function of how far out the cable on the throttle is out from the centre of the thottle axis.

picture-s=r-theta-circle.gif



Pull out equals S

S = rθ where
S represents the arc length,
θ represents the central angle in radians and
r is the length of the radiuss the cable is pulled through
1 radian =57.3 degrees
Any Holley 1-bbl or 2-bbl carb should have 80 degrees of pullout, or 1.396 radians, less a degree or two for kerb idle position. The Carter may be different, so the point S is not as good as the stock Autolite/Motorcraft/Holley standard.


Normally, there should be a hole about 1.4 to 1.75 inches out from the centre of the thottle trunnion. This is r. When turned through 1.396 radians, the total pullout S at the carb is about 2 inches or so, and, depending on the pendant lever arm, about 4 inches as=t the gas pedal.

Quite often we hook the accelerator cable up at the wrong hole and get insufficent travel. There are Cruise control and kicdown holes and accelerator cable holes, but the right one is the one that gives full throttle just a sparrows fart off the floor,
 
any "schematics" or exploded view of the whole assembly?
fordification got em?

If so - may B a view for one model carb could B ADAPTED FOR ANOTHER.

SOME 1 ON (O0OOPPPS SORY 4 THE CAPS) HERE has a write up on doing this with their early (blue) Falcon. Any 1 remember that one? Great faber AND end product...
 
xctasy":2qo76mdg said:
I can help. Done this many times with all my carb swaps.The answer is If you don't have enough gas pedal movement for smooth operation, you have to move the point r to get the right S.

Pedal travel is a function of how far out the cable on the throttle is out from the centre of the thottle axis.

picture-s=r-theta-circle.gif



Pull out equals S

S = rθ where
S represents the arc length,
θ represents the central angle in radians and
r is the length of the radiuss the cable is pulled through
1 radian =57.3 degrees
Any Holley 1-bbl or 2-bbl carb should have 80 degrees of pullout, or 1.396 radians, less a degree or two for kerb idle position. The Carter may be different, so the point S is not as good as the stock Autolite/Motorcraft/Holley standard.


Normally, there should be a hole about 1.4 to 1.75 inches out from the centre of the thottle trunnion. This is r. When turned through 1.396 radians, the total pullout S at the carb is about 2 inches or so, and, depending on the pendant lever arm, about 4 inches as=t the gas pedal.

Quite often we hook the accelerator cable up at the wrong hole and get insufficent travel. There are Cruise control and kicdown holes and accelerator cable holes, but the right one is the one that gives full throttle just a sparrows fart off the floor,
Click to expand...
I had it on the furthest radial support. I ended up fabbing something quickly in order to add an inch and a half or so to the radius. It helps, but the angle is wrong and at full extension it does not allow for complete WOT. It's maybe 1 or 2 degrees remaining, so it's almost all of it. Enough for me to live with for now.


You know, I'm taking trig this semester. I should have thought of this. I have no excuse.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top