Quest for 14 second ets

So this is kind of a continuation of my post called "Running Rough". As some of you have read, I ran my quickest et(15.15) since getting my motor back together and having some mods done to the Holley carb. So now my quest is to do what I can with what I have to get into the 14's...even a 14.99 would make me happy! I know that my motor is starving for air which is why I had the throttle shafts thinned. My hood clearance is minimal so I sent my carb back to the carb shop to have the choke horn milled off so I can improve air flow into the motor. I got it back and it looks really nice. Here are a few pics:




I did some tweaking today in preparation for my next trip to the track which will be on Nov 10th.

1) Re-torqued cylinder head
2) Re-adjusted valves leaving the intake .02 looser ( suggested by wsa111 to improve low end )
3) Reassembed carb and noticed that my squirter was only .25...wtf?? I have always ran a .28 or .31...this would explain the lousy reaction times from last race. I can only think that the carb shop inadvertently did that when they had my carb.
4) Check front brakes for drag...wtf?? Could barely pull the drums off they were dragging so much. So I cleaned up brake dust, re-packed bearings and adjusted. Wow, this could shave off a few hundreds possibly.

With these "adjustments" and the cooler air we are now getting here I'm hopefull for a 14.99!!! We will see. I also picked up a 5 inch alternator pulley but will not install that yet.

Are you running a front sway bar? If so you could take off or just disconnect the end links (tie bar up). Check the toe setting on front end too, or all front end alignment specs, set up with front about 1 inch higher and driver weight as it would be going down the strip,will give the least rolling drag too. You could also wire a toggle switch up to turn off alternator. Good luck

Run up your front tire pressure as high as possible,
Block out the air from the grill, cardboard behind the grill small opening for the radiator and air inlet
Remove spare tire,
Remove the rear seat
Less weight, easier to move
Hope this helps,
Ken

Keep em coming!!!

timing gear scatter. The US 250 timing gear might be the cause of poorer, inconsistant cam postioning. Its all the things Does10's told us about that is bad about the 1 or 5/8th inch chains. I think the lack of strong response to your very excellent mods might be something really basic like that. If you are able to have a gear recut so you don't need to do a full crank remachine like Does10s did to get his 57 minus 1 link double roller SBF chain on there, then you should reap the benefits.

On our old 351C engines, we'd do cam shaft changes, but still use the stock naylon coated timing gear, and loose perfromance compared to any other engine with a new true roller or double timing chain and proper steel sprocket. Ford really was anti noise on those late 60's performance 250's, 302's and 351's, and the timing just got retarded each year the cars ran in service. Were talking 2 degrees or more of cam retart just through wear, but it can cyclically jump from retardation to advance, causing a flat feeling engine which just doesn't seam to thrive.

I'd check that first because its the achillies heal of the US 250. The D7 to E2 casting heads are proven to be able to exceed the 218 hp mark for CFM flow if prepped and carburated accordingly...see 73GreenMachines cardomain 250 I6 info, 218 Superflow Hp from his gasflowed 2" hole single log head D1 (72 Casting flat top log ) before he strapped on the Classic Inline "aluminati" :boom: :checks: :fume:

Gene,

Do you run a electric fan? If you do shut it off when you pre stage.
Remove air filter element.
Electric water pump drive.
Plumb up your cold air intake again since you removed the choke horn.

Good Luck!

Got a Sawzaw Gene : ~OO6.

Gene,
I havent been on the forum for a while, just got the new CarCraft, 203cid and 235hp alum head Ford Six on pg14, wow nice to see it so I decided to check in again.

Wow your car has come a long way since I started to follow it with the WerbyFord Gonkulator.
Here are some ideas and a couple questions.

Gonkulator calculates the following - not "truth" obviously but some ideas.
Weather is a factor but of course you get what you get:
* Cold air to carb vs underhood air
-.16 wow
* 4mph tailwind
-.10
* 15 degrees cooler weather
-.09
* Remove air filter
-.02
* Bigger alt pulley
-.02
* Raise shift points
-.02 maybe
-.08 maybe


On the last point:
Where are you shifting now (1-2 and 2-3)?
What is your RPM thru the traps? (I'm getting about 4500 but dont know your effective tire size)
Good luck!

Mustang_Geezer":30ghcxda said:

Gene,

Do you run a electric fan? If you do shut it off when you pre stage.
Remove air filter element.
Electric water pump drive.
Plumb up your cold air intake again since you removed the choke horn.

Good Luck!

Click to expand...

I do run an electric fan...I will try that. When I am at the track I run nothing on top of the carb...open air. I do plan on trying my cold air setup again since I now have no obstructions. Thanks for the tips!

WerbyFord":1qr3b81l said:

Where are you shifting now (1-2 and 2-3)?
What is your RPM thru the traps? (I'm getting about 4500 but dont know your effective tire size)
Good luck!

Click to expand...

My drag radials are 26 inches tall. I currently shift at 4800 rpms on both shift points as previous dyno pulls show power drops off at 5000 rpm. It may be higher now with the choke horn off and trying my cold air setup again. I am going thru the traps around 4400 rpm. I probably could use more gear but want to keep it streetable...a compromise as they say.

I found your 2 timeslips (2.11 and 2.13 60ft)
Did they give the 330ft too?
I can get a very close match to your timeslip in the Gonkulator but it seems unhappy somewhere between 60ft and 1/8 mile.

It's gotta be pretty happy launching from the 2.11 so I wondered if the mix is off higher up, the 330ft time might be a hint.

Has anyone ever tried the big 50cc accel pump (still w/small shooters) to get a longer pump shot with those big 2bbls? Kinda like the secondary of the 800dbl pumper carb?

In any case, if you get good weather, the cold air setup and maybe the bigger alt pulley should get you 14s if jetting is a bit richer to take the cool air in!

Gene, you might also try a K & N substack to help aid air flow into the carb.Hey we could also find some cheap 195/75/15 to throw on my draglites to knock a lil weight off the front end and have less resistance up front aswell

Open headers, fresh air intake to the carb some how.... THe engine is an air pump, let it pass some air.

You will be in upper 14's easy

WerbyFord":2mtb63rl said:

I found your 2 timeslips (2.11 and 2.13 60ft)
Did they give the 330ft too?
I can get a very close match to your timeslip in the Gonkulator but it seems unhappy somewhere between 60ft and 1/8 mile.

It's gotta be pretty happy launching from the 2.11 so I wondered if the mix is off higher up, the 330ft time might be a hint.

Has anyone ever tried the big 50cc accel pump (still w/small shooters) to get a longer pump shot with those big 2bbls? Kinda like the secondary of the 800dbl pumper carb?

In any case, if you get good weather, the cold air setup and maybe the bigger alt pulley should get you 14s if jetting is a bit richer to take the cool air in!

Click to expand...

The 330ft time for the 2.11 60 ft run was 6.2018 and for the 2.13 60 ft run it was 6.2311...also my carb does have the 50cc acc pump using a .28 squirter. I did check a few plugs today and it looks a tad on the rich side so with the cooler weather I think I will be right on the mark.

Make the Graber's hood scoop openings functional, then box in the bottom of the hood and seal it to carb for cooler ram air.

Side gap a new set of plugs try one or two steps colder on heat range.

Add a set of sub frame connectors.

90 / 10, 80 / 20, front shocks. Set of worn out ones will work too though let's the front end settle down faster

a 3/8 min fuel line from tank

Insulate the fuel line to carb in engine compartment

Rear sump for fuel pick up.

peaugeot bill heat shield, to stop heat soak from the headers to the carb and intake

"The 330ft time for the 2.11 60 ft run was 6.2018 and for the 2.13 60 ft run it was 6.2311...also my carb does have the 50cc acc pump using a .28 squirter. I did check a few plugs today and it looks a tad on the rich side so with the cooler weather I think I will be right on the mark."

OK so your 2.13 and 6.23 match the Gonkulator but right in there, between 60ft and 330ft, is where I have to "penalize" the Gonkulator, otherwise it computes a 6.11 330ft time. So I'd bet that is where it's most unhappy, between 60ft and 330ft.

Maybe the pump shot is gone already & the main circuits are still catching up, hard to believe tho with that big 50cc and small shooters. Maybe TOO much fuel? Hard to imagine that too. And if so, sending cooler air in will help it both ways so should get you to 14s.

You do have that cam 4 degrees advanced, right, for 110 LSA and 106 ICL?

bubba22349":1xvxgs2f said:

Make the Graber's hood scoop openings functional, then box in the bottom of the hood and seal it to carb for cooler ram air.

Side gap a new set of plugs try one or two steps colder on heat range.

Add a set of sub frame connectors.

90 / 10, 80 / 20, front shocks. Set of worn out ones will work too though let's the front end settle down faster

a 3/8 min fuel line from tank

Insulate the fuel line to carb in engine compartment

Rear sump for fuel pick up.

Click to expand...

I am already running drag shocks set to 80/20 and I am running an electric fuel pump at 6psi using 3/8 line. What would the colder plugs achieve and how would sub frame connectors help ( other than stiffening the suspension ).

WerbyFord":37bt6ywf said:

"The 330ft time for the 2.11 60 ft run was 6.2018 and for the 2.13 60 ft run it was 6.2311...also my carb does have the 50cc acc pump using a .28 squirter. I did check a few plugs today and it looks a tad on the rich side so with the cooler weather I think I will be right on the mark."

OK so your 2.13 and 6.23 match the Gonkulator but right in there, between 60ft and 330ft, is where I have to "penalize" the Gonkulator, otherwise it computes a 6.11 330ft time. So I'd bet that is where it's most unhappy, between 60ft and 330ft.

Maybe the pump shot is gone already & the main circuits are still catching up, hard to believe tho with that big 50cc and small shooters. Maybe TOO much fuel? Hard to imagine that too. And if so, sending cooler air in will help it both ways so should get you to 14s.

You do have that cam 4 degrees advanced, right, for 110 LSA and 106 ICL?

Click to expand...

Yes, I have a 110 centerline cam advanced 4 degrees.

The cold spark plugs have large contact area to transfer more heat away from the plug tip. Fords Hi Performance books from the late 60’s recommended plugs 2 ranges colder than stock IE for cars driven on long distances or high-speed highway use. Sub frame connectors have no effect in stiffening the suspension; they help by stiffening the body & chassis assembly. This causes the chassis to react faster and transfer more of the engines torque through chassis to rear axle.

Also the above suggestion for the stub stack is a good one if nothing else you should run the lower lid of air cleaner that has a good radius this is to help straighten the air flow into the carb. A thick carb gasket or plastic type base spacer ¼ to 3/8 thick if you have the hood clearance could help keep carb and fuel in bowl cooler too.