"new"mustang new problem

Hello everyone,

some pictures from the mustang I bought yesterday for my son, its a 1979 fastback and of course a 6 inliner.
Sorry for the pore quality of the pictures better ones will follow.




Today I preformed some checks (yes, stupid that I did not do this before I bought the car normally I do but it was raining cats and dogs) like oil and cooling water.

On the dipstick of the engine oil I found some Mayonnaise, most of you now already know what I mean.
Also under the breather and of course the valve cover.




After removing the cover its confining to one hole, as you can see.
I turned the 2 bolts on both side a little bit faster, but i presume this will not do the trick.

Suggestions??

Try every bolt a little faster?
I have only ones try to replace a head-gasket (4 cylinder and now the are 6) and that was no success.

Car is running on LPG (gas)

Thanks.

Gr Paul

Did you actually drain the oil out to see what it looks like?? If the car has set for a while it may be from condensation.
But if you found loose head bolts I would pull the head and at least replace the head gasket and at the same time check the head and block for cracks just to be sure.

Head swap for my '67 was dead simple. If you want me to post pics of it I will be glad to.

X3 Head gasket likely or maybe a cracked head. You could try torquing the head bolts in the proper order and torque steps and there is also the K & W block sealer if it's not to bad yet.

O'reillys sells a product that garrenties to fix head gaskets. None of the others do claim that. $76.00 for one treatment.

dagenham":1qbkzc0m said:

Did you actually drain the oil out to see what it looks like?? If the car has set for a while it may be from condensation.
But if you found loose head bolts I would pull the head and at least replace the head gasket and at the same time check the head and block for cracks just to be sure.

Click to expand...

No I did not drain the oil, but because this mayonnaise is only found at one valve lifter indicates that that's the place where water finding its way into the engine.
Will try to torque down the bold's with a fraction.

Asa":3ff8v1np said:

Head swap for my '67 was dead simple. If you want me to post pics of it I will be glad to.

Click to expand...

Yes I love too see picture's of this job.
The price of a head gasket are not so high.
Must de head be make flat again? (milling??) or just swap the gasket.
Tiding it down and the job is done?
looks so easy.

Gr Paul

69.5Mav":20ar28d0 said:

O'reillys sells a product that garrenties to fix head gaskets. None of the others do claim that. $76.00 for one treatment.

Click to expand...

This is more expensive than a gasket, maybe this is a solution for a small crack?

Gr Paul

You can remove the head, clean it up, and clean the head gasket with alcohol or SP01083
Cleaner Hylomar 250ml .

Then apply Hylomar Part number SP01080, a blue sticky additive, then reclamp to the torque specs.

The stock steel gasket just needs regular retorquing. Its highly unlikely an EO head will ever crack...that head is tough as nails.

I still have my D8 stamped 1981 cylinder head and gasket for reuse later this year

canvaspaul":3rc3pab9 said:

Asa":3rc3pab9 said:

Head swap for my '67 was dead simple. If you want me to post pics of it I will be glad to.

Click to expand...

Yes I love too see picture's of this job.
The price of a head gasket are not so high.
Must de head be make flat again? (milling??) or just swap the gasket.
Tiding it down and the job is done?
looks so easy.

Gr Paul

Click to expand...

It is a pretty simple job. Yours will be more involved than this as you've got a few more connections and such in there, but roughly the same steps.

I can show you better pics of any stage of this

canvaspaul":3743b37a said:

This is more expensive than a gasket, maybe this is a solution for a small crack?

Gr Paul

Click to expand...

True, but it's a lot less work. Of course only if it works but if not you get your money back, save the empty bottle and reciept or no refund.

It all depends on how much time you've got and how fresh your motor is. Mine hasn't been apart since Ford assembled it in 1969. You never know what you'll run into when you take a motor that old apart.

canvaspaul":vc6384r0 said:

dagenham":vc6384r0 said:

Did you actually drain the oil out to see what it looks like?? If the car has set for a while it may be from condensation.
But if you found loose head bolts I would pull the head and at least replace the head gasket and at the same time check the head and block for cracks just to be sure.

Click to expand...

No I did not drain the oil, but because this mayonnaise is only found at one valve lifter indicates that that's the place where water finding its way into the engine.
Will try to torque down the bold's with a fraction.

Click to expand...

8) if water is finding its way into the engine, then you need to drain the oil and see what condition it is in. what you have shown is light condensation. so before you go removing the head gasket, installing some chemical product, or what not, run a compression check and see if you have bad head gasket first.

rbohm":3hl6wqil said:

so before you go removing the head gasket, installing some chemical product, or what not, run a compression check and see if you have bad head gasket first.

Click to expand...

I agree. Also presserize the radiator to see if and where the coolant is going.

Yes to all above, try put thing in the correct order.

Start with checking the engine oil, drain and change it.
Running the engine till its on temperature and preform a compression test.

Re torquing the head bold's is still wise?

If the compression and oil is OK I will drive the car for a couple 100 miles see if the mayonnaise comes back and checking the level of coolant to see if I lose water.

If not OK I will make a plan to lift the head and replace the head gasket.

Gr Paul

Compression check done readings are:

cylinder 1 120 psi
cylinder 2 115 psi
cylinder 3 110 psi
cylinder 4 115 psi
cylinder 5 125 psi
cylinder 6 135 psi ??

All in all not to bad (I think) with this readings, don't forget it is a high mileage (150.000 -200.000 Miles) car running its whole live on LPG (gas).

Gr Paul

Condensation can often create a milky sludge around the oil filler cap and inside the valve cover.
The engine hasn't been run up hot enough to burn it off.

x2 on the condensation. The '65 Lincoln I had was notorious for forming condensation in the engine, espescally in the breather cap.
Doug