Advice: priorities and bounderies

Invectivus

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So my mustang is being cranky (viewtopic.php?f=76&t=69785) and even if it wasn't, the t5 is leaking fluid so it's a drop and swap proposition or the girl won't let it come home. it was a bear to install as i have a dual exhaust installed, which is rock solid and allows for no engine droop whatsoever, which is where we get to the engine portion of my request:

I need to either seperate the exhaust at the collectors, or pull the header out, to get proper engine movement to easily get the old t5 out and the new t5 in. the upside with pulling the header is that it's one of those that has one bolt hole off a bit, and i'd be able to egg it out a little to allow easier install and hopefully prevent blowing out the exhaust gasket.

but wait, there's more! my current head has a broken header bolt on it, i've been able to thread a nut on there as the base of the header is thinner than the stock manifold. works-ish, but potentially doesn't, and it's hoeky. i have other heads, but then i'll get into planing the head and measuring the chambers, maybe hand lapping the valves...you see how this can get out of hand, but it does seem like an oppotunity to both get a lot done at once (synergy) as well as keep my car apart all summer :( especially since my balancer has slipped.

i guess i'm looking for a sanity check before i commit to a pile of parts over a more-or-less working vehicle.
 
yeah, dropping my T5 with the dual exhaust installed as a nightmare. Fully welded headers to tips. I'll not make the mistake again. Couple that with the fact I wanted the exhaust to hug in the shaft hump and on top of the convertible seat pan brace made for a nightmarish fit.

I had about 2-3" of play to move the transmission back from the engine. I ended up pulling the transmission and bellhousing together. It was the only way. No way I could get 6-8" of movement from the T5 to clear the input shaft, so it all came out. I had just enough to slide the transmission back to clear the clutch. Getting it back up was even more tricky. I ended up using two jacks to slowly move it up while I wiggled it into position. I was able to put it up and remove it with the dual exhaust by myself with this method.

In hindsight, probably would have been easier to cutout and reweld the exhaust.
 
I found my issue, it was my very expensive starter perishing, maybe (undoubtedly) because I bubba'd it. I'm going to see about getting my spare head worked on and rebuilt while I find and source a 2 bolt mini starter (which i think will take a long time) and if it's ready in time, all the better.
 
I'm a big fan of those SS clamps, SS flex sections and inexpensive rubber hangers , . The smallest available SS clamps are 2" (afaik).

To drop the T5' on my two six cars , the re-usable SS clamps and collectors un-bolt , a few hangers and it's clear.

Have fun


.
 
Not sure why I didn't. I guess at the time I was afraid of leaks since I had no experience with them.

The my next exhaust system, I may very well go that route.
 
Invectivus":zjvclt2q said:
I found my issue, it was my very expensive starter perishing, maybe (undoubtedly) because I bubba'd it. I'm going to see about getting my spare head worked on and rebuilt while I find and source a 2 bolt mini starter (which i think will take a long time) and if it's ready in time, all the better.


Do you have any update on the 200-I6 mini starter?

Rick
 
I took a bunch of measurements of the stock auto and manual starters, and my McRobb mini starter, and I have them on my laptop at home. I want to double check them and post them, then use them when I check with various starter manufacturers when looking for a replacement. Up in the woods this weekend, should get to it early this week.
 
Asa":fml43v77 said:
CobraSix":fml43v77 said:
In hindsight, probably would have been easier to cutout and reweld the exhaust.
Why not just cut and use one of these?
I have no clue what their failure rate is, but I know they use 'em as normal features on big trucks
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance- ... Id=1256861

That type of clamp is factory on virtually every VW and Audi product made in the last decade, so I'd say they have got to be pretty reliable. :) Although, the VAG clamp is little more complex - it's actually two sheaths, one inside the other, and provides a very tight seal. Hopefully this link works:

$T2eC16N,!%29UE9s3wBeInBR!QwfcSlw~~60_12.JPG


Here's another:

http://assets4.fcpstores.com/public/ass ... 1284049394
 
Makes perfect sense, and will likely be how I go on my exhaust this time around, if only at the muffler while I try to get the exact sound I want.
 
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