Both of you (Mustang Geezer and Crosley) now know the results of getting the right converter! It seams to work in line with what Car Craft and FalconSedan Delivery have been saying, you need to tray a differernt converter and see how it goes, and what is rated as a stall figure is not what it will flash at on an I6. So you can get 4000 rpm stall converters which work just fine on an I6, since the rating is not I6 based, its just a figure that changes with the cam and engine set up.
Crosley":3eol5neb said:
Very Kool and not just a little pick up in ET and MPH... that is a lot picked up when talking inline 6cyl talk.
:mrgreen:
The issue is the converter, mostly. When people do automatics on chassis dynos, they loose a huge amount over the flywheel figure, way more than the 25 to 28% you'd expect with a T10, Toploader or T5. But what I used to see in the Australian cars with C4's and Turbo Hydramatics was 53 to 63%. When you applied a better, looser converter, the evidence seams to be closer to 33% loss all told, so a wrong converter choice for drag racing may be effectively a 50 hp loss. So a 350 hp car might be 215 rear wheel hp with a 63% loss and a stock C4 and a 1650 rpm converter, but with a really well set up C4 and 2350 or 2500 rpm stall rating, it might be 263 rear wheel hp.
On an auto I6, the converter must allow the car to gain on hole shoot launches, and that's what you've done.
The CI head probably looses a lot more power at low rpms with an automatic than a log head, due to the port sizes. With the right gearing and converter and tires, it responds better than anyone might expect.
