How to install a oil pump intermediate shaft

When I was trying to align the distributor on my rebuilt engine when I pulled it out the oil pump int shaft came out with it. I thought I slid it back in properly but I am not getting any oil pressure now. Any help to properly install this shaft would be appreciated. will I feel any click can I put the shaft on the end of a 5/16 socket to slide it in or do I have to get to it by removing the oil pan?

If everything is in good repair, the oil pump isn't loose, anything like that, then there isn't really a method of installing the oil pump driveshaft as well as the distributor without getting them both interlocked into the correct position

The shaft drops in, you rotate it till it slots in, then you align the distributor and drop it in.

I can't think of any reason related to the pump driveshaft that you wouldn't have oil pressure.

where can I look to see why I don't have any pressure? I have both a idiot light and an oil pressure gauge. The light stays on the the gauge reads 0.

You've verified that both are working properly?
Did you change the oil or anything when you did this?

As stated above this is a rebuilt engine just install in my comet. The oil is brand new. Put in just prior to attempting to start. What purpose does the oil pump intermediate shaft serve?

Engine turns camshaft, cam turns distributor, intermediate shaft connects the distributor and the oil pump.
Without the shaft the oil pump won't turn.

You're a big help thanks alot. We were in your neck of the woods about six weeks ago. went on a cruise Miami Nassau keys and back to Miami. Is it possible for the shaft to be ingaged with the distributor but not inserted in the pump? Maybe riding just on top of notches.

The oil pump end is going to be the same type hole as the distributor end, a hex-socket arrangement. If the shaft isn't aligned properly then it is going to be sitting above the oil pump, if it does that then it will sit high enough that the distributor won't be able to drop down all the way into the hole, the camshaft won't be engaged. It would be obvious that something was wrong.

You might try pulling the distributor and pulling the valve cover. Drop the shaft down into the hole and make sure it engages properly, then get a socket on the end of a power drill and spin the shaft so that it pumps up the oil pressure. If you see oil coming from the valve-train then you know you have flow, if you don't then you know there is an issue somewhere in the oil pump system.


I'm hoping to get down to the Keys in mid-late July, myself. Pretty area

8) since you indicated that this is a rebuilt engine, my first question is did you prime the oil pump before trying to start the engine? if not then it will take time for the oil pump to draw oil into the rotors. gear type and rotary vane type oil pumps are not good at creating a vacuum to prime themselves.

i suggest pulling the distributor, chucking a 5/16 hex shaft into a drill and run the drill until you get oil pressue, either on the gauge or the oil pressure light goes out. then reinstall the distributor and oil pump drive shaft.

The easy way to install the oil pump shaft is find thin walled plastic hose & slide it over the end of the shaft.
Carefully slide the shaft till it engages into the oil pump.
To get the hose off the shaft take a rod or a length of brazing rod insert it into the hose till it contacts the shaft, then slide the hose off the shaft & remove the hose & rod.
Shaft stays in pump then you can take a hex socket as described above & spin for oil pressure or just reinstall the distributor.

By partly pulling out the shaft did I mess up the retainer washer? After my prior messages I went out and pulled the distributor and there was oil on the dist. gear and the cam gear. Does this mean the oil pump is starting to pump? Rbohm, if I try your Idea with the drill any estimate on how long it will take to get the oil pressure. Do I just leave the ignition position ON while I do this with the drill? Or run the drill and check every so often? Sorry I do not have your expertise so I need alot of help.

I would work best with a helper, but yeah just leave the key on and see if you can rig up a mirror so you can see if the light is on from the outside

Mr Comet":34av8ld5 said:

By partly pulling out the shaft did I mess up the retainer washer? After my prior messages I went out and pulled the distributor and there was oil on the dist. gear and the cam gear. Does this mean the oil pump is starting to pump? Rbohm, if I try your Idea with the drill any estimate on how long it will take to get the oil pressure. Do I just leave the ignition position ON while I do this with the drill? Or run the drill and check every so often? Sorry I do not have your expertise so I need alot of help.

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when we primed the engine we built for my friends camaro, it took less than 30 seconds to get oil pumping out of the rocker arms. but it does sound like your pump is pumping oil, and if that is the case, then you have an issue with the sending unit, wiring, or gauge/light. the sending unit is on the left side of the block down low. what i would do is pull the unit, rig the drill and run it for a few seconds to see if any oil is coming out of the opening.

Not sure if anyone posted this, but:

You have a small gasket that attaches the oil pump to the pickup screen assembly.
If that gasket is not properly attached or missing, you will have zero capabilities of pumping oil
You will be sucking nothing but air.

Same problem if there is any crack in the pickup tube not submerged in oil.

It is not unusual to have to run the drill for a minute or so to get oil throughout the engine. It depends on a few things and drill speed is one of them. I have a geared down specialty drill and it wouldn't build pressure at all as it spins too slow.

Also with new, dry empty lifters, it will take time to get them filled and also to get oil to the rocker shafts. It is much better to do this priming to pump the lifters up so they are opening the valves correctly, this way when the engine first starts, it will not be misfiring and difficult to keep running until the lifters pump up. Just spin the drill for a minute or so and turn the crank about 90* every 10 seconds or so to put everything in a different position. It is a good idea when priming to remove the valve cover to ensure that oil is coming from the rocker arms.

PM me if you are still having difficulty. I am not far away from you and can come lend a hand to help a fellow car guy.

First for rbohm, I tried removing the sending unit and with the drill turning the oil pump shaft and within 2-3 seconds got a big glob of oil out sending unit hole made approx 5"to 10" wet spot on garage floor. I thought it might dibble out but it was a quick gush. Stopped at that point I figured pump was working fine. The compression o ring on the line for the oil pressure gauge had pinched sideways and looked pinched so that could be why the gauge was not reading. I used a tee just outside of the sending unit hole so I could use both a gauge and the original sending unit. when I removed the tee it had oil in it. I am going only with the gauge for now until I know I am getting proper pressure. I have a vacuum issue up between the carb and intake manifold so I need to solve that issue before I try and start the engine again. Keep you posted. I can't say thanks enough for all the help.

First fox, might just take you up on your offer. I live a mile north of Saginaw Valley U. How far are you away from me? I might try your idea since I have to wait for the gaskets for the carb.

Thanks all Denny

8) sounds like you solved the lack of oil pressure mystery.