Exhaust Valves

bmcgc1960

Well-known member
Supporter 2020
Im sticking with my stock 1.649 intake valves with a 30 degree backcut.

On the exhaust side I found a set of 144 1.467 intake valves with a .015 oversize stem.

Is there any problem with the .015 oversize stem? That set of 144 valves only cost me $20.

Im keeping a 1v carb, headers and DSII.
 
No problem.... Just let the machine shop know so they can check clearance
and ream the guides to fit.
 
8) no problem with the larger stems, they were in fact designed that way to allow for wear in the guides. in the old days you didnt install bronze guides, you just opened them up for larger stems.

the only issue would be using an intake valve on the exhaust side, since the intake valve wasnt designed to handle the heat the exhaust valve does. just be aware that you may be doing a valve job in about 30,000 miles to replace burnt exhaust valves. you may be better served by using a 1.5 exhaust valve from another engine.
 
Howdy All:

FYI- After much discussion and cussin, checking and rechecking with those who should know, our conclusion is that in stock Ford small block application, the intake and exhaust valves are the same in material composition. Both Dennis (200) and I (250) have been running 144 intake valves as exhaust for some time with no unusual result. Now if I were building a high rpm race engine, I'd go with SS 1.5" stainless exhaust valves from CI in a heartbeat. Also the 144 intakes were the only reasonable option when our heads went together. I'm just sayin"....

Hey bmc- if you're sticking with a stock cam, it becomes even less of a valve and valve seat wear problem.

Adios, David
 
(Update) I have bought a used 200 out of a 68 for $300, I pick it up Friday. I got the complete engine, C4, 3 into 1 headers, adapter and Weber 2V, and DSII. The owner is swapping in a 351W.

I dont need the engine or tranny, but its been 30 years since they were last produced, so it never hurts to have spares. I cant buy the headers, weber, and DSII for $300, so I couldnt pass up on it.

I plan on useing my current bottom end and milling the head to direct mount the 2V, backcut the intake valves, install the 1.467 exhaust valves, and run a 264/274 cam on 9.0:1 compression.

I have not seen the "new" engine yet so I have not confirmed which head is on it. My 65 has a D0 head right now.

Is there any significant difference between a C8 and D0 head?

I got all 6 exhaust valves and 3 intake valves for $20 shipped off ebay, they are new Napa parts, discountinued parts I think.

This is my misses car with a 2.80 rear gear and a C4, I dont think it will see 5000 rpm.
 
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