still smoking..

No offense taken! And this engine seems to have a few problems: smoking, low compression and no PCV. Using pressure in the cylinder is just one test and might help the owner peel back the onion; it's not a tell all test at all!

And I agree that getting the PVC functioning correctly should be done and see if the problem change/doesnt change or goes away.

Personally blue smoke on a new fresh rebuild would have me concerned too but running it won't hurt anything either.
 
mugsy":218vufgk said:
Personally blue smoke on a new fresh rebuild would have me concerned too but running it won't hurt anything either.
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Yes sir, I agree with you completely there...it won't hurt anything. A leak down test may well point to a problem with rings or some problem with the valves on #5. The reading on that cylinder is approaching a 20% difference vs 10%, and that would certainly concern me.

Hopefully whoever rebuilt the block (or the head) for 72Maverick offers a warranty or stands behind their work if it turns out something more is wrong (like incorrectly installed rings as someone suggested). Also hoping that with the pcv system working properly and a little more run in time (e.g. as he approaches the 500mi mark), those numbers may come up, but a combination of wet/dry compression tests and leak down will need to be done to measure improvement if any.
 
Well sitting at 360 miles exactly and plans to do the fix the pcv this weekend well see how it goes. While im at it, I will try to do a wet and dry compression test as well and post the numbers back here
 
72maverick":gp25kgrp said:
I've done 4 oil changes since break in and running 15w-50 I think and I've been on a few hour long drives changing rpms
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I'd replace "changing rpms" with "revving the crap out it on a lonely backstretch".
 
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !


Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!
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You could try hooking up the PVC to the T on the intake (below the carb mounting) it might involve changing of some fittings to fit it all depends what is now hooked up there, but this would be an easy way to try it and see if it helps any. Good luck :nod:
 
So re-routing the pcv stopped smoking at idle. Here's where the bad news is. I saw antifreeze coming out between the block and the head. I'm guessing this would explain why there is low compression in the #5 cylinder. My cousin is thinking it is the block and his father as well. I'm still partial to it being the head and my grandpa agrees with me on that. Don't know what else to look for or to try at this point. I have an extra cylinder head and block so I think I'll take those to another shop and have them go through them
 
If its a cracked block, head, or head gasket There is one more thing you can try flush the block good and put some K&W block sealer in it as per the directions it may fix it enough to use for a while. I have had very good luck with it on a number of different engines. Good luck
 
It is worth a try I have patched engines that had keep working the next day until had time to pull them down sometimes they would last a very long time.
 
72maverick":gsv6rhww said:
Hopefully get to it this weekend. I'll keep you updated
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If you let it sit till this weekend, turn the engine over with a wrench at least 2 full turns before cranking with the starter.
If #5 cylinder fills with coolant You DON'T want to be cranking it with the starter.
 
Sorry, not a big fan of 'sealer' products, especially on $ invested rebuilt engines and most especially not on these straight sixes. With the relatively smallish pump, impeller and coolant passages they're already prone to cloged up over time (e.g. there are small holes in the head gasket where it lines up with water passages at the back compared to the front to balance coolant distribution across the head).

If you're not smoking at idle then chances are you may not have a coolant leak into the combustion chamber. You'll generally know that's occurring by large amts of white smoke (water) vs blue smoke (oil) as mugsy mentioned. The main indication of an internal water leak is water in the oil which creates a milk shake type look (it may or may not reflect a 'crack'...again, "don't panic" ;) ...this might help further picture the indications...
http://blownheadgasket.com.au/faq/what- ... ad-gasket/

Now on these inlines it is possible to have a failing head gasket where the water leak is only external, as you mentioned you see water leaking between the "head and the block". Similarly a failing head gasket could show up as compression loss or leaks...have run into both.

Is it 'seepage' or can you see it the water 'flowing'...even in a trickle?

First thing I'd suspect is your head gasket given the symptoms. What make is it? Who installed it? Was the proper torque routine for head bolts in both ft/lb series and sequence followed?

Also make sure that it is water you are seeing and not oil leaking. These inlines can be prone to seepage especially down the driver's side of the block. Water passages head to block run down both sides, whereas oil passages are only on the driver's side. Usually just enough to create a sheen on the side of the block is not enough to be concerned about.

I'm suspicious of your head gasket condition, and they're relatively inexpensive to replace as well as not getting much easier than on a straight six (no need to even pull the carb if not required), you could also get a better inspection of the head rebuild quality with the head off or take it to another shop for second opinion.
Good luck (y)
 
First fore up we noticed it. Tore it down. Reinstalled it and went by the book both times. Very first time we saw the coolant leak. Haven't seen it since. On the passenger side, oil has covered the other side that has been there since first fire up. And I could see green bubbles coming from the crack and dripping down
 
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