Autolite 2100 repair?

JAGGUY

JAGGUY

Active member
I picked up a 2100 2bbl a couple days ago.
Took it apart for cleaning and found this brass tube cracked.
Is this replaceable? I've looked online but haven't found it for sale anywhere so far.



Thanks for any assistance.
 
:unsure: I remember many years ago,a friend had the same problem.His solution was to make one to replace the cracked one.He just got some brass tubing of the correct size and laid out the holes with the correct spacing and drilled them on his drill press,installed it and went on his merry way.As far as I know,he is still running that carb today,and the repair was done in 1984.He also polished the inside of the tubing to remove any burrs left from the drilling.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
There are no replacement tubes that I know of.
I believe the crack will not cause any problems. The area inside the tube is not dependent on the bleed orifices that I know of.
If you want to be on the safe side, you can solder the crack.
I am a holley man, CZLN6 would be able to advise you further. Bill
 
Those are the emulsion tubes, if I'm not mistken. When they crack, they alter fuel metering through the rev range, in your case, on just one barrel. It operates the same as the emulsion tubes on a Weber carb, but Autolites and Holleys are not as sensitive to changes.

Braise or remake it to the same design, and it should be just fine. Proboably, a lot of 2100 Autolites and 2150 Motorcrafts have the same problem, and one wonders if it might not be a good idea fro anyone with these crbs to check it out when recalibrting or refreshing for a non standard application like our little sixes.
 
Thanks for the help!
I figured I would solder up the crack and clean up the holes. Being brass it should be easy.

I appreciate it.
 
Howdy Jagguy and All:

I've not come across this problem and I've never seen replacement parts for the brass tubes on the K cluster. I have done some studying on the K clusters. There should be a two or three digit code stamped on the bottom of the cluster. Clusters varied in idle, low speed and high speed air bleeds based on what vehicle the carb was going on to. We have gathered and gleaned parts from many 2100s and have swapped what we deemed leaner K clusters into carbs exhibiting richness at idle or high speed ranges- with moderate success.

You might want to keep an eye out for 2100s at swap meets to keep for spare parts. Brazing the original tube is a likely solution also.

FYI- The K Cluster functions like the metering block in a Holley carb.

Sorry, not much help here.

Adios, David
 
For anyone else with this problem, the four and five hole brass emulsion tubes are called well tubes, and are part of the whole K cluster. The idle jet in 27 to 32 thu sizes goes down the tubes.

They are different to 2-bbl 2300 and 4-bbl 4150/4160 Holleys, which use 6 hole well tubes with 25 thou holes typically, although there are a few types of a slightly different nature. The key thing for Autolite and Motorcraft 2100/2150's and 4100's is that as long as the pattern and sizes are the right ones, you can take em off, and remake them, or solder them. Jeeps used the carb as well as FoMoCo...its around!


Here is some really good tech info to show how.

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vinta ... tions.html

http://68vert.blogspot.co.nz/2011/11/this-old-carb.html

While I was cleaning the venturi clusters, I noticed that one of the emulsion tubes of the primary cluster was cracked. I read up on this a bit and found it to be a fairly common problem. Some guys leave it alone, others solder the crack. I decided to try to remake the tube. The tubes are .2175" inches outside diameter with a flare on the end of .279". I found that 7/32" brass tube from the hobby shop is only 125 thousandths too large and 9/32" tube is 225 thousandths too large. After a few failures, I figured out how to accurately solder the large tube over the small tube to kind of simulate a properly expanded flare. The emulsion holes in the tubes are right at .040" and I had some .040 drill bits handy (1mm) so I laid a piece of transparent tape over the holes of a good tube and transferred them to the fabricated tube. Finally, I chucked up the tube into my drill press and sanded the "flared" end down to .279". I then pressed the tube into the venturi cluster making sure to aim the holes in the same direction as the originals were. By the way, I did try to find an old carb, venturi cluster, or even replacement tubes but came up empty (for less than $25). Otherwise, I wouldn't have bothered.
Click to expand...

Looks like it is a common 2100/2150/4100 Autolite and Motorcraft problem. Knowing how much the Holley and Holley Weber carbs respond to customized well tubes, this is an important first step if you fail to get the performance and idle characteristics you expect.
 
I do a lot of carburetor work. I could sell you that part for ten dollars. if you want to work something out message me. I'm in California as well so I could ship it cheap or take an hour drive to me.
 
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