My mods on 200 Super Pursuit

Just a quick outline of what i am doing this week to my wagon. I am going to run it on the eighth on Sunday at The Six banger Nats. Car is stock apart from extractors and exhaust, i am on my 3rd etractor gasket so had to have a look at that before the weekend. I am wanting to tune her up a bit without breaking the bank. I had a collector welded on today and a 2.5 inch side pipe that exits under the drivers side door, my exhaust was Hi-Tech Headers, 2.25 into a Hooker Aeroflow, then 2” to the rear, i hacked off the 2” rather crudely to dump it before the diff. The new exhaust mods now have a 2.25 from extractors to the collector, it was 2” for some reason then 2.25 so its now the same, had a new turndown fitted with the muffler slightly angled so it dumps at the tyre shock area. Painted it all satin black. Unbolted the exhaust at the collector and took the extractors off, pretty bad to find a 4mm gap front to back and a bit of a bow in these extractors, they are mass produced, the workmanship is nice just not checked probably. I notice the middle ports had quite a bit of interference where the pipes meet the flange internally, my friend is fixing the extractors and porting out the middle ports to fix it up then face it all up.

When i race it on Sunday going to do so with the pipe up, air cleaner on and my big 15”wheels and tyres. Get a few runs, then unbolt the exhaust, bolt the side pipe on, remove the air cleaner and put my 14’ steelies on with small tryres, this should get it off the line quicker and i will be able to see what this adds up to, the day of racing is six cylinder only so after a few runs, get a dial in and try and go some rounds.

Going to change the oil (anyone recommend a grade?), oil filter and do something with the plugs, also the timing hasn’t been done since i brought it 13 months ago. Dizzy is points but its all newish, jusdging by the amount of carbon/soot etc in the exhaust ports it must be running a bit rich, i haven’t touched the car. Car has always ran very well. Any tips on the tune up?

8) to fix your gasket problem, try getting some 1/8" thick copper about the size of the gasket in question, and make your own gasket. the nice thing about copper is that it seals nicely, we have used it on our race car many years ago, and it is reusable.

as for oil i say run a 10w30 weight oil, preferably a good synthetic like royal purple.

Thanks mate, you just use a utility knife to cut it? As for oil, that sounds like a good recommendation, i think someone in town had Joe Gibbs on special.

Probably need a Dremel or something, I'd imagine. Ideally you'd also want to anneal the copper before using it to ensure a good seal, and probably use a spray sealant. Otherwise, I'd say there's a good chance it won't seal for long, if at all.

I looked at a Cortina 144-250 log extractor gasket today and it has a heap more meat in the centre ports, the difference is like over 15 mm to the falcon gasket. Looks sim to a classic inline gasket without the centre post narrow bit. For 4 bucks more i can get a large sheet of the dimple gasket and make up two gaskets, much thicker material than the gasket i was using.

What i do need is the following as my checking has lead me to be confused

Plug Gap
Points Gap
Timing

8) while copper is a soft metal, it can be difficult to cut as it gets thicker. i think we used a sharp chisel to cut the port openings, but it has been since 1980 since i helped make one from copper.

my motor has 12 month old ngk ap5fs spark plugs, the spark plug rater is to slightly to cold, i wanted to gap an index them but cant find the correct info, i know i should just replace them but money is tight.

Same plugs as my early head. Unlike Aussie Falcon log heads, the US used the same plug diameter all throughout 1960 to 1983.

The NGK AP5FS is just fine as they come, there are NGK settings which override the Ford settings. On my Duraspark equiped Mustang, the settings are 0.9 mm or 0.035, which differ from the standard requirements.

They are no longer standard plugs, so you follow the makers recomednations, and bingo, that's what you should run as a start point.

Thanks mate, 0.035 is what i thought would be right. What about engine timing, i wont do it until the extractors are back on, and i have access to a cortina extractor gasket, more meat in the middle, i am sure it fits, its a 144-250, not sure why falcon ones have no meat in the middle.

Aussie engines had a Lucas or Bosch non loadamatic, Bendix Stromberg 1-bbl, and unless its a Taxi version for Standard fuel, it'll have a high 9.2:1 compression ratio. Based on your sparkplug still being a common Autolite replacement, I know your head is still the stock early casting, but when redone, the head castings, carbs and distributors from later X-series log heads often found there way in.

All this means what you have may not be anywhere near the stock 125 bhp gross combo it should have had in 1967. The later model Aussie Alloy head XD/XE Bosch Duraspark is a very good substiute for the old stock Lucas or Bosch points set up. It just needs a K line copper or bronze insert in the distributor base in the block to stop the distributor wobbling as the base hole is 0.495" rather than 0.530". Other setups like the XF onward Ford TFI is set up for the 2-bbl Weber, but has EST or an EEC4 interface, so you can't use them easily. I'd use a 1980 to 1984 XD/XE or Cortina Alloy head or F100 alloy head dissy, and set the base timing a lot higher than the 9 degrees before top dead centre they used. Then check advance is less than 36 degrees. Others here find 12 to 14 degrees on a 9.2:1 compression ratio isn't too high, and the engine runs great as long as there isn't too much advance over 3000 rpm.

Usually, any stock 46 year old ignition is totally nerked, and not worth using for a paper wieght, let alone an engine. If its been serviced, its most likely not working the way its intended. If you are using the stock Aussie market Bosch distributor in pristine and checked condition, you can bump up base timing to well over 12 degrees. The maximum advance can be pegged back to 34 degrees by limiting the plate movment. The stock vac advance is servicable for those old Bosch 61 distributors, but it needs setting up on a dyno with a proper dial back timing light to see it the advance and dwel is set up right. If not, its a lottery.

I use my dial back timing light, and check the degrees advance at idle, and then at 200 rpm intervals, with any car on even our Australian unleaded 95 RON, it won't want to see more than 34 degrees at 2800 rpm.

The problem is that the old Bendix Stromberg 1-bbl tends to run-on if you raise the base timing if there is any air leaks or non specification float or seat valve condition.

The exhast cast iron header to head/or extractor to head gasket. There are
a) a 2V gasket and
b) an early Ford Falcon cast iron exhast "service" gasket.

Each are different.

The centre ports on the 2V were more restricted than the log head 144/170/188/221/250 engines as they had factory tube headers and no heat stove...the 2V intake had provision for water heating only, not the old fashioned flapper valve log heads have.

Some ACL cataloges aren't really very smart, and don't show the differences. The Cortina used the later model Falcon engine, and there were two types of gaskets, but only the 2V 250 came with a gasket from the factory.

Thanks for the write up mate. I got my extractors back today, they have been faced up and ported out by mate machinist, i have cleaned up all the exhaust ports on the head and made up a long thin straw to vacuum all the crap out. I gaped the plugs tonight and indexed them, i replaced all the consumables in the dizzy about 10 months ago. Tomorrow, i will check the Cortina gasket against the extractors before i buy it, looking at the gasket that was on there has us thinking the last two times it was changed was for stock log exhaust. Then i will do the timing, if i had access to a vacuum gauge we would do the lot using it. I am racing it on Sunday so with the cars weight which is 1520kg with me in it and 1430 without, i can work out what power it has withe the times it runs. I am running as street firstly, hopefully get 3 runs, then drop the pipe, remove air cleaner, and change to the smaller wheels and tyres and see what that does to the ET, it is loud with the new pipe on. Probably going to get my camera buddy to youtube it as part of our Six Banger Nats coverage.

Good Luck, bro.
Rootin for ya!
Keep us posted on any times recorded & we can all compare to
what others have achieved as numbers for you to shoot for as well.
MAy be you'll do better!!! (Now wouldn't that be nice!).

BTW: what was the Super Pursuit made for in Oz (it's a model?)? Police?
I see taxis were tuned differently...

Good luck and keep us posted!!

Thanks guys, my wagon is a 1967 XR Falcon with Super Pursuit 200 inline, has Super Pursuit badges on front guards, at the time in Aus when this came out it was the biggest Ford six, they just started doing the 289 V8 in GT’s and Fairmonts, for a six it outperformed the Holden red motors, we had slant sixes here as well around this ere. I did the extractors today, got them on, boy what a challenge to get them back on, i had them off and on 3 times, couldnt get all the bolts to line up, used two studs to line the gasket, silicon dried once as it took so long, even now i have one bolt i cant get in. Drove it around with the collector on and no exhaust, very loud. Have to be an easier way to do these extractors. I will keep you all informed wit times of my car and others, its a big meet here, cars have left major citys for the all night drive up here.

My car weighed 1520 kg with me in it, 1430 without, i have a race weight of 1390kg which is 3064 pounds as i stripped out the carry ons, like my spare wheel, tools, jack and 19 kg worth of seat covers, not bad considering i haven’t actually lightened it in any other way, she is all steel baby.

"...had slant sixes here as well..."
that's a Mopar? or dodge/chrysler 170ci & 240ci (same era - '60s)?
the fords trounce them, no?

225 slants in the sixties, then seventies had the 245 and 265, best was the charger with a triple webber 265, these were the fastest sixes in Australia, XU! Toranas had a hot holden six and won Bathurst the 1000 k race. Aftermarket for Holden six cylinders down under is bigger than Ford Inline six in the states. Chrysler is still very popular and original muscle cars like american ones command big bucks. PS i tried to time my engine tonight, fan belt is to loose, i will change it tomorrow. Couldnt turn the fan to get the mark on the balancer for my light, first time the car has been times in 14 months. My carby is untouched, i backed off the fuel a bit as it smelt very rich. Cant wait for Sunday.

like 2 C a slant 265 w/triple Webber's (ours never got that much displacement - nor 3 carbs oem).
Those carbs side draft?
I had 2 slant 6 (1 225 & 1 170 IIRC) in 2 wagons (1 each: '66 Dart, '64 Valiant) that took me around the perimeter states of this country puttin 300,000mi on the motor (transplanted it from the '64 to '66).

Again, best of luck, dust em!

The reason Aussie rework sixes is that they do it better than anyone else in the world.

With the Hemi, just a cam, headers, piston and triple cam up grade gave the Six pack a 63% performance boost, from 16.8 second quarter miles down to 14.4 seconds. The Hemi Six started with a paltry 185 hp gross, about 15 hp more than an M code 1972 Falcon 2V 250, although the engines yielded the same quarter mile times in the same engines. Actual flywheel net hp for each was 149 hp. So the performance increase was 63 to 98%, depending on how you rated the engines. A stock 2-bbl Chrysler 265 or Ford 250 could give as little 100 hp at the rear wheels with an automatic gearbox, but as a manual,, the E49 gave 233 rear wheel hp. The E49 was briefly the worlds fasted four seater six, as it eclipsed the 325 hp gross DBS Vantage and European spec 265 hp Jag XKE/ Etype 2+2 as the worlds fasted four seater untill the 126hp big valve Lotus Elan 2+2 and the 24 valve Datsun GTR Skyline hit town.

The GM Holden XUI 202 GTR engines with a set of Charger E49 carbs could easily make 295 hp at 7500 rpm with the right tuning, so it was more the Chrylser engineers use of a very good carbuation set up that gave the power. These days, a set of 48 DHLA's or DCO 50's with the right 202, 250 or 265 engine can make 375 to 450 hp. The Hot triple carbed Holden 186, 202 and Chrylser 265 six cylinder engines were sensational ciricuit racing engines, with a vibrant history on the track. To match them, you needed a Boss spec Cleveland 351, and often, any well sorted i-6 would out perform a Ford V8 on a race circuit. Chrylser New Zealands total dominatio on Benson and Hedges circuit racing, and a routing of Fords factory Phase III GT ho 351's by stock E49's proved it. The Holden Torana win against the Phase III Falcons at Bathurst 1972 with just a set of single barrel 45 DCOE's in a 235 hp package when Ford had more than 380 hp under improved production more or less proved the " Six Cylinders are Race Cars, V8's are Tow Cars" adage.


Development of the 215, 245, the rare E31 2 and and E34 4-bbl 250 cubic inch overbored 195 and 235 HP engines, and then the 185, 206, 216hp 265 cubic inch engines skyrocketed with the 1972 VH Valiant.

They replaced the 2-bbl Carter carb with a set of DCOE 45 carbs from a twin cam 314hp 1969 Astron Martin DB6 Vantage, and got greater hp levels than even the 2006 to 2013 twin cam Falcon engines .

Back then, the three best versions of the Hemi Six had a rated gross hp was 302 hp with a 306 duration cam in 1972, earlier 1971 smaller cam versions were 248 hp for the E48 and 280 hp for the E38 respectively. Actual installed ratings for the 1972 E49 Six Pack were 295 hp net at just 5300 rpm. It dropped 14.4 second quarter miles and could easily do 132 mph in a 2910 pound car.

See http://hooniverse.com/2010/09/01/antipo ... -six-pack/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... ZLMLVXjSOw





The XU1 202 GTR Holden Torana was even more impressive as a circuit car where 72 version were a lot hotter than the 216 hp the 1971 Bathurst versions could run, and they couldn't eclipse a Charger E38 or E49.There were not faster than 15.5 second quarter mile cars, yet enven a three speed manual E38 coudl do 15 second flat ET'S

http://www.shannons.com.au/auctions/lot ... A7UCAXEZB/

chad":1r2yw3kt said:

like 2 C a slant 265 w/triple Webber's (ours never got that much displacement - nor 3 carbs oem).
Those carbs side draft?
I had 2 slant 6 (1 225 & 1 170 IIRC) in 2 wagons (1 each: '66 Dart, '64 Valiant) that took me around the perimeter states of this country puttin 300,000mi on the motor (transplanted it from the '64 to '66).

Again, best of luck, dust em!

Click to expand...

a slight missunderstanding there - XRwagon wasnt clear :
australia had 225 slant sixes - only size.

then in 1970(1969?) chrysler australia developed what they called the ' hemi six' engine - it was a conventional vertical engine .
had 3 sizes - 215, 245 and 265 .

it was the 265 that you could get the hot racing pack with 3 x side draught webbers -factory
the story goes chrysler australia sent a ute (ranchero) with the engine over to weber in italy for weber to tune/specify the carbs for the production run.

alledgedly 302hp (gross) (at 265ci)for the hot factory race specificartion (E49 charger). the reason for the ute was so the opposiotion didnt get prior knowledge of the fast back charger shape body(in pic below) they were planning to releases in 1971

this was one of the adverts chrysler austraia ran :