EFI options.

redxm

redxm

Well-known member
Ive come up with an idea that may, or may not be a good thing.
Ditch the 350 Holley on my 221-2V build and go EFI.
The 4.0 AU engine on the floor of the shed has got me thinking...
I know the harmonic balancer will fit straight on to the 221 crank,not sure of installed 'depth' yet. With appropriate brackets the crank angle sensor will work.
This also opens up the possibility of a serpentine belt conversion.
Ive played with EFI a bit over the years. I converted my crossflow XF to efi years ago.
I have been involved in the build of 2 AU saloon cars so the wiring side of things is not an issue (Im also a radio technician in real life)
What I really want to know is, what would be a simple ECU to use. In the saloon cars we are restricted to the EMS Stinger 4. Down side to this is there is no feedback from the engine that will adjust the tune. We have a base map nutted out on the dyno, and add or subtract fuel trim to suit the track.

What I will probably do is a simple (think XE/XF) type system. MAP sensor, knock sensor and oxygen sensor. with a tuneable ECU this shouldnt be too hard to acheive??
Throttle body will be whatever I can come up with, but more than likely off an AU (as I have it). Injector choice, not sure yet. Screw in type might suit the build better as I can drill and tap the 2V manifold appropriately.
Ignition, not sure. Either go with the XF type dissy, or do I go for a coil pack setup?

What am I missing?
 
Your not missing anything.Once you understand the basics, you get smart enough to pick up the dovetails and down wind wins with the EEC5 system. I'd persoanlly use the Explorer eec5 from the 1998 XLT, and keep the sensors set up, but not thave them hooked up to anything. The advice I got from Tristan at Ford mods, who does the EEC4 and EEC5 thing for Kiwi hotrodders in Hamilton, and he's awesome and was the key for me. Then you can use Alex Peppers car code system to check it up, and the Exploder uses a close to 221 stroke.

The Falcon XH Ute 4.0 XR6 is the best Aussie EEC 4 system to hook up, as it has no BR intake

The 104 pin Aussie EEC 5 for the AU is not fully ODBII, so its easy to fit up since the self checking and interactive OBDII features that you see on 1996-2003 Explorer SOHC's isn't there, so you don't have to use second O2 sensors, evaporative emissions doors, fuel flap and check light items in there entiity, but a little hard to break into unless you use the right factor access port. It has some nice features, and is sequential injection, EDIS-6. The system can be wacked onto a 221 with ease as long as you have a vechicle speed sensor and a code to keep the smartlock activated. Each sensor EEC5 expects to see has to be polling, or it will fault code. You still have to be able to check the system, so you need to use the existing AU coms ports and its basic sensors. You can remove BR Intake function, but it will fault code. The computer is expecting a 1.9:1 rocker ratio and air flow figures for the AU head. The 2V can flow that. The injector timing is set for 6.06" rods and 3.91" stroke, while the 221 is 10% smaller but has a much more aggressive rod ratio of 5.14/3.46 (1.486 verses 1.55). The degrees of crank angle to injector firing is set up to the 243 cubic inch engine, so you'll loose a little bit ot power and torque using the stock settings. The 9.65:1 compression ratio is knock sensor controlled off the crank sensor at the front for that engine, so you'll have to keep the compression ratio down to 9.1"1 to keep it out of detonation.

I don't like aftermarket systems because Ford and GM systems are smarter, better for emissions and take care of fault finding a lot better. MPGMustangs amazing TBI 3.3 Mustang proves that its easy to do,and you get great results from nearly stock Big Two injection systems. The American Silocon valley stuff is first rate, and if they can fit 'em up to a Jeep 4.2, then a Falcon six is easy.

The 2V i6 issue is where you put the port injectors. A V6 300ZX or inline L6 L28e 280ZX Nissan fuel rail is close, and then you have to do very acurate placement of the injectors. Classic inlines can supply the fuel rail and injector boss locations to suit the Aussie 2v. That is the only hard part. The throttle body was covered off years ago by Broncitus in his early Bronco 3.3 Supercharged engine.


If you want something real quick, just use the 120 kW 3.9 EA CFI and its computer and distributor. The other old 60 pin plug units also allow the ue of the common port EFI bank fire EEC 4 computer from the XF to ED Falcons, or the EEC 4 unit with EDIS from the base model manual or auto ohv 123 kw 4.0 1996 to 2001 XL Explorer. Not all Aussie market Explorers were auto XLT's with sohc V6's, and the parts are cheap and of excellent quality.

The key is that the batch fire circuit can just as easily run twin Throttle Body or Central Fuel injection as it can EFI Multi point.

That way you can use a fairly close fuel table without even having to get into the fuel tables or ignition ramps.


In the US, the old EEC4 and Delco P4 set-ups were able to downgrade from port efi back to twin injector CFI and TBI setups, so you can keep the stock 2-bbl intake and slap on EFI in a couple of days. The 2.8 Carby Cologne V6 found in Capris, Mustsngs, Areostars, Rangers and Bronco II's used to be a bit of a hassel to tune, so the guys used to ripoff a Port EFI V code 2.9 Scorpio or Ranger Port EFI unit and slap on a 1983 to 1985 3.8 CFI unit, and you'd be made.

Ford 2.9 V6 1989 Port EFI to Ranger carb with Ford 3.8 CFI

http://www.broncoii.org/techpages/2.8fi/


Others just did the 2.8 Chev V6 TBI to it. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... 89&start=0

Either way, the ignition and fuel maps were close, and self adjusting with an O2 sensor.
 
xctasy":1mjyl5u3 said:
I don't like aftermarket systems because Ford and GM systems are smarter, better for emissions and take care of fault finding a lot better. MPGMustangs amazing TBI 3.3 Mustang proves that its easy to do,and you get great results from nearly stock Big Two injection systems. The American Silocon valley stuff is first rate, and if they can fit 'em up to a Jeep 4.2, then a Falcon six is easy.
Click to expand...

uhm. thats not true anymore;

http://www.promracing.com/massfloefi

Water and shock proof for mounting under hood or inside the vehicle.

OBD II compatible. Codes read and cleared and sensor data read using a generic OBD II scan tool. The new Pro-M EFI processor uses the same code strategy and the same codes, that all of the OEM's use!

Fully laptop programmable. Your laptop also acts as a powerful scan tool. See data in real time. There is more information available to the user than you ever imagined possible. Much more than with any conventional scan tool, or any of the hand held programmers offered by the other guys.

Full control over both Air/Fuel ratio and timing. The latest fad are these "fuel only" EFI systems. They have no control over spark, so they are only doing half of the job. Pro-M EFI does it all!
Click to expand...

remember that in this country, federal law requires the automakers to disclose their code to any aftermarket company that asks for it so that compatible code readers can be built, and also aftermarket efi systems can be built that when given 50 state legal status can be used as a factory replacement if needed.
 
The EA CFI Im not keen on. If I do it, I will do it the 'better' way.
Looking around there are a few options for the ECU. I may have found an injected XF for cheap, If that comes off I will have a good starting point.

Theres not a lot of Explorers out here, cant think the last time I saw one on the road, let alone at a wrecker's.
Most EA's by now have either been scrapped or turned into speedway cars and are hard to find. If the lead Ive got gets me the XF then I'll grab it, they are getting thin on the ground too.

If all else fails, then back to the AU 4.0 for bits. At least I have access to a base tune, even if it is E85.
 
I think the primary advantage of sticking with 1st party EFI is going to be tuning - but that's IF you can find a base application similarly enough to your own. What all the big manufacturers have done that's tough to replicate at home is broad drivability - good performance across temperature, altitude, fuel, etc. extremes. Getting the same level of drivability from an aftermarket system can be trying. What you lose, however, is *some* degree of fine tunability, the ability to coax the most from your setup. I say some, because as long as you're not going bleeding edge with your 1st party system there are a BROAD range of tuners out there for factory systems. EEC IV/V or the various '80s/'90s GM systems or ChryCo SMEC are pretty well explored these days, and getting them to do exactly what you want is increasingly trivial.

I think there is some merit in the diagnostics built into a factory system that you won't find in many (if any) aftermarket systems, but bear in mind the modern factory systems with those advanced diagnostics are doing a LOT that you may not need or want to bother with. You probably don't care what your EGR valve is doing because you don't have one, and you may not be concerned with an intermittent misfire on #5 because you don't have a cat, etc. I think the target audience for retrofitted EFI cares a lot less about minutia than the government, is far more accommodating of infrequent and random odd behavior than the general public, and far more able to make heads or tails of an EGT or vacuum gauge than the average repair shop.

To that end, IMHO, what you get with a retrofitted EFI system is probably a lower cost of entry (junkyard parts), a quicker time to running (given you've an application in common), and you lose a little tunability. Compared to a 3rd party EFI system which is pricey (even for Megasquirt), a slower installation time (because you are building everything), and an infinite amount of freedom in making changes (given you make the right choice ;) ).

I've done a couple EFI swaps - different year fuel injection, aftermarket fuel injection, etc. - and there is merit in both approaches. That said, my opinion is stay the heck away from OBDII system unless there is a CLEAR path to disabling emissions feedback and other system integration (body modules, etc.). Fighting limp home mode or reduced performance because your factory ECU suddenly realized it can't talk to the power lock system or because the O2 sensor simulator took a nap is a PAIN. You can spend an enormous amount of time working around a factory system's requirements! Earlier, dumber systems and the proper monitoring equipment (EGT, wideband O2) is far easier to work with, but you can still run into compatibility issues - a speed sensor in the wrong units, or an idle valve that want PWM instead of voltage. Cost no object (ie, you can afford unlimited dyno time), go 3rd party. But if you just want fuel injection, an early '90s EEC system and HP Tuners or whatever is gonna do you fine, so long as you choose the right "base" system to work from.

My $0.02, anyway.
 
I trust my Kiwi mate, his testimony is that the US stuff is far and away easier if you just deal with the obd2 tentacles. The Aussie EECIV and EECV is dumbed down. He's real hardcore, and wouldn't screw with EEC5 unless he could make a buck from it.

Ford spent millions on the EEC4, more on the EEC5, and the Aussie versions didn't follow obdii on the EEC5 till late. I trust that the Aussie systems are simplified, and that the US systems are more problematic, but the extra 44 pins of info are really easy to by pass if you know what your doing. I know that flashed modifiactions to OBD II EEC5 are becoming the only game in town, and people are networking like never before. Its time to endorse the mainstream, even though it can be abitchy set up, its pros aremore than its cons.

The key is that the Aussie stuff is non OBDII, and that means my Alec Pepper 125US dollar FEDeX mailed plug in won't work. That programe was awesome, simple and realtime, and smart.For extra, you can break into other stuff, because hes an ex EEC software designer. The unpack stratergy for V6 and v8's has been unlocked largely, and the 1996 to 2011 Explorer/ranger/Mustng 4.0 sohc is the best strart for any hot 221 to 250 cubic inch six becasue its EDIS-6, ODBII, mapped, unbacked, smart, fast, reliable and allows a fairly basic 4 liter six make 205 hp and 248 lb-ft with stock fuel tables, great ignition, and for about 300 USD, can be hooked into anr reflashed. The other set ups are typical aftermarket, they are another tangent off, and don't force usersto just spend time understang that Ford, GM and Chrysler were the worlds biggest computer slaes company bar none, and demand that the world understand there systems.

For the Aussie stuff before the 2003 BA, that means your system is either EECIV or EECV, but its dumbed down, and not realtime, and you can only use the common Ford body control computer plug in, and do routine fault test. Its very limited.

See XEC EA EB ED XG XH EF EL 1137 CODE BREAKER XR8 EL GOLD eng 5000



see ea to EL XG CODE BREAKER USING BODY CONTROL MODULE 1137

 
I should have my hands on a 1988 XF EFI setup by the end of the week. Then I can start to play..
 
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