Log Head Conversion - Qualifed Shop Needed

Ks65Mustang

New member
Looking for some recommendations for a 200 inline log conversion. I read on the Classic Inline's website that they had quit milling the heads.
Does any one know a reliable shop that can do the job? Classic Inlines has the price listed at $650.00. I probably need some additional head work done at the same time so pricing would be great too.

Any assistance would be appreciated!!!
Thanks
Nick
 
There's a guy in Fresno CA that does it, said about 450 for the conversion, more for other work like guides and milling, etc.
 
Hi Nick,
U don't list the locale or specific additional machine work wished for ...

Here in a suburban area surrounded by large rural expanse it's $750 for total machining (port, valves, etc - a kinda complete job as recommended by many members). Parts are also about $750. But again it depends on where U R and what U want.
Mike has a thread/open inquiry for "recommended shops" on this forum's 'table of contents'. C if ur in one of the areas folks have added entries/reliable shops.
Good luck - keep talkin -
 
Thanks for the replies,

I am located in Kansas City Metro region. I can ship it without too much a problem but it just eats up the budget. I can have a lot of the work done locally if need be. I am just having problems finding a shop that wants to do the conversion. I have located only one out of ten that is even willing to do it, and they have only done one. That one they welded on. They don't seem to interested in tapping it fro removal.

Thanks
Nick
Ks65Mustang
 
chad":2okvtf48 said:
Hi Nick,
U don't list the locale or specific additional machine work wished for ...

Here in a suburban area surrounded by large rural expanse it's $750 for total machining (port, valves, etc - a kinda complete job as recommended by many members). Parts are also about $750. But again it depends on where U R and what U want.
Mike has a thread/open inquiry for "recommended shops" on this forum's 'table of contents'. C if ur in one of the areas folks have added entries/reliable shops.
Good luck - keep talkin -

Not trying to be negative or hurt anyone's feelings, but spending $1500 on a log head is a total waste of money, for no more gain than you will ever get out of one. Spending even half of that is also a waste of money, considering there are better options that will at least provide a "better bang for the buck" value. A crossflow head swap or even the Classic Inline aluminum head is just a few hundred more dollars away at this point, and you'll have twice the gain as far as results go.
 
I Totally agree with CNC, I have in the past cut corners to save a dollar, and then later regretted it. These are basically our toys and used for entertainment. Money spent on good entertainment is never wasted.
 
The later E0 and E1 log heads are a much better proposition than the earlier logs as that have more space. The welded and braised or JB Welded head is a problem to keep sealed, and the chance is that it will crack.

Ford USA did no favours to anyone with the log heads, and the only glimmer of hope was the changes made to make it the 170 HP 2V 250, and now, the Classic Inlines head. The engine combination with a proper 2-bbl with a log head can still make 205 hp, though. See Crosley's direct mount Falcon modifications. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=56639&p=440076#p440076. Can't do 15 sec ET's at 88mph unless you've got 205 hp.



logheadport2-1.jpg
logheadport-1.jpg
 
just FYI....

my D8 head flows 145cfm...

I put in:
550... valve guides
450... larger valves, springs, retaingers (everything NEW)
300... 2bbl conversion
100... fix the 2bbl conversion 1 yr later

and I never got my exhaust divider....
in the end, I spent 75% of a new alum head... and I'm getting 63% flow...

I've made 145hp with this head... and I'm getting 68% of what the alum head can do Natrally aspirated...

notice I've also had to FIX my 2bbl build... granted I did the 'putty' and JB weld version... but if I did the brazing I would have spent another $250

now... how much is that alum head??
If you're going to do that much to a log head and pay someone else to do it... DO YOUR SELF A FAVOR... just buy the alum head and have a peace of mind. it REALLY does make life SO much simpler...

now on the other hand... if you want a VERY well preped 2bbl head... let me know.. I'm selling the car complete... it will save you money in the long run.
 
I agree, Mike has invested a great deal to be able to provide the Ford 6 community with an affordable, premium part, so why not take advantage of his efforts. Sure, if money is tight and you have the abilities to do the mods to a log head yourself and can end up ahead by not having to spend the money, then by all means do that. But when it comes to actually spending your hard earned cash, we all want to feel we are getting the best return for it. The Slant 6 Chrysler and Chevy 6 guys would give their hind teeth to be able to have the choices the Ford inline guys have for a better cylinder head.
 
Like to hear more specifics from the original poster...

The costs/options I listed for my locale for those specifics are not an option I went with. Not for U 3 guys (& more, I know) either. But for different reasons. However, there are several reasons some one would wish to go with those options. Still need to hear from Ks65 Mustang to see if he falls into these categories...

Did you check our list to see if recommended shops were local for you?
 
Reading all the replies it sound as if the conversion is a waste of money, and that a new head is the way to go. What is your guys thoughts on a OZ 250 head? Would that be a better option than the conversion? What I am trying to achieve is to get some extra horsepower but still maintain my high mpgs I have been getting. I currently am getting about 25 mpg. I am hoping that after the rebuild and putting in a T-5 I hope to be getting around 28 - 30 with some get up and go. I would prefer to stay with the weber 32/36 progressive to help achieve that, but don't know if that will be the best option.

What all would it take to transition to the OZ 250? I just read the article on the Aluminum Head Install for Mustang Monthly, and was surprised at the trouble he was having and how the 350 cfm, was not cutting the mustard, and he had to move up to if I recall right a 600 to start seeing the numbers he was looking for. I not interested in a hot rod just a good performing street vehicle. I have read over and over all the articles on Classic In-line about their recommendations for the build, and thought I was on the right path.

I am thinking it might just be easier to drop a V-8 in it, and be done?????

Your expertise is greatly appreciated, as I haven't built a car in years.
Thanks
Nick
Ks65Mustang
 
I think if you can perform the Oz head swap for less than the costs of the CI head upgrade by a good amount, then that would likely be a better alternative. However, I don't know if an expected gain in gas mileage is going to occur, perhaps it will. But looking at the cylinder head flow numbers on the top of the small six performance page, it falls right into play as far as flow goes, right above where the ported log head falls off. From what I remember being said about the Oz head conversion, it is a little more involved and may even require a bit more mechanical ability to make it happen, so I would re-read all the info on here about it before jumping in too deep. But to me, only the Oz head or the CI head would be my only choice.
 
I have also thought of a crossflow head for my 200, a guy in Australia has a CNC program for alloy crossflow heads and can maximise them.
 
There is mention of 'Troys Mchine Shop' in Idaho in the indispensable Falcon Performance Manual. It describes his head work capablity and that he has a flow bench. I found a link to his place on the interweb as seen below.
Also a member had a modified for 2v head for sale recently in the parts section and also possibly available in Florida an OZ head and intake.

http://www.troysengines.com/
 
Also keep in mind that having to pay to ship a log head to/from is going to add close to $200 more bucks to the total conversion costs, making it again that much less desirable of an option when its all said and done.
I've had several opportunities to buy Oz heads for between $3-400 bucks. So to give you a comparison, a bone stock Oz head out of the box for $3-400 bucks is already going to outperform the $1500+ before mentioned log head with the log removed by a pretty good margin. If your dead set on doing the log head, that's fine, but just sayin'....
 
Ks65Mustang":2r7dydl7 said:
Looking for some recommendations for a 200 inline log conversion. I read on the Classic Inline's website that they had quit milling the heads.
Does any one know a reliable shop that can do the job? Classic Inlines has the price listed at $650.00. I probably need some additional head work done at the same time so pricing would be great too.

Any assistance would be appreciated!!!
Thanks
Nick

I know I'm a little late to the party but when did C. I. stop Milling heads? I thought they were still doing it, I was going to take mine down to them when I was ready to have it done.
 
kenny170":3vgxp5dx said:
I know I'm a little late to the party but when did C. I. stop Milling heads? I thought they were still doing it, I was going to take mine down to them when I was ready to have it done.
I don't know when they quit doing them, it appears they are going into selling only converted head or the aluminum ones. See info off their website below.

Product ID: FSP-200-CHS
Cylinder Head Services Details

Sorry, we have temporarily stopped taking orders for cylinder head work. We currently have so many heads to build, we simply can't keep up. Besides working on several aluminum and cast iron heads for customers, we're also working on a dozen large log heads, which will be sold in exchange for used cores

Guess I should contact them and see what one of those run now days.
 
Guess i didnt know cl was going to have heads on hand.
Thats even better~ no waiting.
 
Maybee not. I've done a lot of assessing of the best way to avoid fruitless machining modifications that jepardise the value of existing engine parts, and a direct mount is a small risk with a good machinist with a late model head, and big risk with a moderately competant machinist with earlier heads. I've frankly seen better results with just a mig welder and a tri opower coversion on an early head. Fact is, the 1-bbl area is a piece ofiron thin on metal, and one that doesn't have the strength to be shaved with four studs then crimping it. Your best option is just taking any head, and opening the hole up with acement cutting drill to 1.75 to 2.0", and then adding a bolt on adaptor.

My considered advice is to take a step back. Don't direct mount at all.

Trans Adapt, through Carbs Unlimited, sell a funny front mounted TD2044 adaptor, which is not the best, but is simple. http://www.carburetion.com/Products/Pro ... art=TD2044

Its an inferior adaptor to any thing that Classic Inlines sells, but it adds height to a short turn radius which is exceptionally bad with a shorter adaptor. It turns the carb around, which does nothing postive for the air fuel mix, but it allows an simple aftermarket solution to the accelerator and kickdown, if automatic.
Then use of the Holley 350 cfm carb can be undertaken. A 1970 Mustang accelerator cable and Locar adaptor can be used to eliminate carb to rocker cover issues.And once the Holley 350 cfm carbs Power Valve Channel Restrictions are dropped down to less than the stock sizes, and a 6.5 power valve added, the carb has no flat spots and runs like a champ on just 53 to 56 jets.


The totall height of the instillation can be lowered by triming the choke air horn off if needed. On a 200, you don't need to. That allows the 14 inch air cleaner with 2, 3 or even stack two 2" air cleaners. Use a special 2" deep base adaptor and a common air cleaner.

The key is that a latter D8 onwards head will give you what you want. Economy wise, a set of small jets will give the ability to fine tune the 350 cfm installation.

Then save up for the Classic Inlines alloy head as situation allows.

The key is that we all over think this, arguing that its two steps to where you would be heading in one step, but I think you'll be happy with the simplicity of the TD2044 and you can then devote yourself to enjoying the fuel economy gains from a taller adaptor. You'll get a result you'll be happy with.

The issues of fuel distribution, cylinder head flow, the best use of money are all achidemic. I'd spend a little more as an intermediate step, and back off from the diret mount.

Evidence I have is that a tall adaptor, later model head, and good carb set up with competant linkages and air cleaners that work will make up for the lack of good flow of the 1-bbl intake. We are missing a tall adaptor , non direct mount log dyno run to back it up, but the adaptor listed as Fail on the internet isn't bad as an intermediate step to getting to a Classic Inlines aluminum head.

Any concrete driller worth his money can take the stock 11.3 to .75" log out to 1.8 to 2" with the right tool, and that won't break an old iron log id done right.
 
"...Fact is, the 1-bbl area is a piece ofiron thin on metal, and one that doesn't have the strength to be shaved with four studs then crimping it..."
Yes, the pic U have showed point to some very this metal. JB Weld isn't something I want on my engine if I can find other means.
:eek:
Mickey mouse already lives in my pocket book.

Mike's flow chart shows the hex/lrg/later log to do well for this thread author's needs, no? (How to fit the H/W 32/36?)
 
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