Ditching Load-o-matic setup

T

texas_ag

New member
Hey y'all,
I apologize if this has been covered ad-nauseam, but I'm in desperate need of some advice.
I've got a stock 65 mustang, 200 3-speed, that I finished about 6 months ago with the original load-o-matic & 1100 scv setup. The carb has been rebuilt twice (once professionally), but it's still not quite right. It floods a lot, choke is tired, and I'm not confident the dizzy is 100% (I did replace the diaphragm). Right now it's out of commission with a flooding problem. The float and needle/seat check out fine, but we can't figure out why it's dumping so much fuel. Standard new mechanical fuel pump.

So... 3 questions:
1) Does anyone have any advice on why it may be flooding/running so rich? All adjustments appear to be spot-on, we just can't figure it out. I'm not a carb expert by any means, but even my trusted mechanic is banging his head.

2) I toyed with the idea of ditching the load-o-matic set up during my rebuild, but I was really wanting to stick to a stock engine/appearance. I took a gamble on the original 50 year old dizzy/carb, but it may be time to count my losses and move on. I've read over a lot of the classic inline's tech articles, but I'm still not sure what would be a good Carb swap. Does anyone have any advice? I'm dead-set against any modification to the head. Not only can I not afford it, but it's a point of no return for any future "full restoration" I may want to do 20 years from now.
I'd really like to keep it as simple as possible. Is there a setup that will allow me to keep my existing air cleaner, automatic choke, and only minor modification to the throttle linkage? I saw the 1v carb on classicinlines, and really like the "plug-n-play" aspect, but I'm a little turned off by the manual choke. I'm worried about air cleaner spacing/hood clearance on the weber 32/36 and would need some hand-holding for the "custom" linkage.

3) Given a new carb, I'll need a new distributor, too. What would be a good distributor/carburetor matchup, or does it matter as long as it's getting the correct vacuum source?

Can anyone share their stories of similar conversions or advice?

Thanks,
Jason
 
Disconnect the line to the dist . get a dial backlight , so you can set the initial timing at 30 btdc , then look for an Mallory dist that has the 1/4 drive , after that e-mail me
 
A 1/4'" drive distributor may not fit that engine . According to The Ford Falcon ... Performance Manual some time in '64 Ford began phasing in the 5/16" oil pump drive which also increased the dist. base shaft opening in the block . Since texas_ag has a '65 'stang the dist. is likely the later version of the LOM which could be swapped out for the '68 up centrifugal advance distributor . Remember our friend here wants a stock look so that might be more preferable than one of the performance units . texas_ag , post the block casting number located on the passenger side near the starter - it should be something like C5DE - H [or other letter/number combos] .
 
C5DE-6(maybe a G)015-H

I don't mind some upgrades/mods, as long as they're reversible. I don't want to go crazy hot-rod, though, either.

Thanks y'all,
Jason
 
Those numbers indicate a '65 engine which could use one of the various later distributors . The '68-72 point type can be fitted with an electronic conversion kit with little visual difference . The '73-74 [small cap] or '75-? [large cap] Dura Spark [factory electronic ignition] would need a bit of work to hide the wiring so that might not fit your preference . There is a performance version called DUI based on the GM HEI which is bulky and some have had problems with those but it changes little of the rest of the vehicle since it is self contained . All of those can be tweeked , re-curved , etc. . Doing a search here on ignitions [a LOT of posts] will give some idea . I can recommend The Ford Falcon Six Cylinder Performance Manual by the Schjeldahls , here is a link - http://www.falcon6handbook.com/ . That manual is also available from other vendors including our sponsor here . There is much information in there that can be used to improve the performance of the small Ford 6 without irreversible effects .
 
If It is a Later Engine than the best bang is a Recurved 68 and up Dist with a Pertronix conversion , all the firepower you need , better performance and gas mileage , plus the points can be kept in the glove box on the VERY remote chance the Pertronix dies , and it looks stock
 
There's also another alternative available. Take a look at http://www.accuspark.co.uk/Blackbox.htm

With a Pertronix and this box you get a programmable advance curve that replaces the mechanical curve. You can keep the vacuum advance if you have one.

Not only can you tailor the advance curve, one of the neat things about having a programmable unit is that you can also dial in more advance below your idle rpm to help stabilize idle speed just like you can do with EDIS/Megajolt, and Megasquirt maps. It also gives you the ability to tailor the dwell curve too.

I've ordered one of their systems to install on my MGB project car and will have results shortly, but the reviews so far have been positive.
 
Looks interesting as it allows an option on the older 1/4 drive Dists ( Loadamatics ) Price of course is a consideration , a stock falcon 6 with locked out timing would still be the cheapest. its not a race engine , or fuel injected , still good to know
 
Pretty cost effective if it works. At 99GBP plus shipping it works out to less than $200 to get a programmable advance curve for a Load-o-matic. Need to add the Pertronix or other, of course, but its still a lot of capability for the money, if it performs as advertised.

The Pertronix may not even be necessary, actually. If all the unit is looking for is a square wave like the Pertronix puts out, then the points can provide that as well thru a pull up circuit.
 
I'm one of those stuck with the 1/4" distributor choices . The information on that Blackbox unit indicated using a laptop computer [which I don't have] . Anyone know if it can be adjusted with a desktop ? I presume something would have to be removed and replaced to do that .
 
oldgrezmonke":23ei99u0 said:
I'm one of those stuck with the 1/4" distributor choices . The information on that Blackbox unit indicated using a laptop computer [which I don't have] . Anyone know if it can be adjusted with a desktop ? I presume something would have to be removed and replaced to do that .
Click to expand...

Yeah, just get a long USB cable, like I did with my Car Code reader.No biggie.

the UK company Stealth brings you BlackBox, because Lucas England brought us the worst distributors ever made.
 
Nah, 50 or 25 feet. Its an option I ticked for my car code reader. See

xctasy":231gf0lc said:
RoadWarriorDyno System for XEC engines
Postby xctasy » Thu Nov 10, 2011
Some more Equipment arrived today for my tuning business, the E for engineering in XEC.

I use 10 main parts to tune my carb and efi vehicles , Clockwise from left, an Optilux 3763 timing light, a Projecta dt8308 multimeter, the Sun 023-168N dial back timing light, a bunch of US Holley 2300 carbs, the Spanish Bressell version of the Pinto engined 2000 cc Cortina 32/36 Weber carbs, a bunch of CR1000 data loggers from Scott Tech in Christchurch, a Sun Engine analyser, Brantz PC trip computer to measure distance, 64 bit Acer 5740G computer, and Alex Peppers awesome EEC4/EEC5 linking tools and software.



..........
Click to expand...
 
HOWDY Jason and All:

Sorry to be so late to this party. Back to the lo-tech side-
Q- "Any advice for a carb swap?"
A- Don't forget the Autolite 1101 carb from a 1969 Mustang with the 250 engine. This carb is identical to the 1100 in appearance, but has no SCV and is compatible with either the '68 -'69 non-SCV, point type distributor as well as the DuraSpark and DuraSpark II ignition systems. It has a ported vacuum source for these later distributors. It is almost a complete bolt on with fuel line, air cleaner and linkage. The only adaption would be to flare out the top of the carb mount to accommodate the larger throttle bore of the 1101. It is rated at 215 cfm compared to 185 cfm of your original 1100.

THese carbs are getting scarce. If you're scoring one from a parts house as a rebuilt/remanufactured be sure to check the throttle bore to be 1 11/16" to ID it. An 1100 Tbore would measure 1 5/8".

Best wishes and keep us posted on your choices and progress.

Adios, David
 
Well, you could just lug the desktop computer out to the car and use a $5 extension cord. No need to drive around with a laptop in the car. Once you have it tuned, take the computer out and drive it. Then, to paraphrase out illustrious leader, if you like your tune, you can keep your tune.
 
MustangSix":1oia3v8u said:
Well, you could just lug the desktop computer out to the car and use a $5 extension cord. No need to drive around with a laptop in the car. Once you have it tuned, take the computer out and drive it. Then, to paraphrase out illustrious leader, if you like your tune, you can keep your tune.
Click to expand...

That works fine. Been there, done that.

oldgrezmonke":1oia3v8u said:
xctasy":1oia3v8u said:
Nah, 50 or 25 feet.
Click to expand...
Wow , long USB cables = $$ . That cost would have to be considered along with the cost of Blackbox . :unsure:
Click to expand...

No, its dead easy and cheap. Would you believe the chord is just a conventional TV chord, multiplexed with a special conditioning box. The USB chord is effectively the same size as any other. The OBDII Ford diagonstic cable is like 25 contacts, but like Ultra Fast Broadband through a 15 pair cable, you can do it all with wire. Digital is just on and offs with a handshake.
 
Just to throw another $.02 in the OP's direction...

1) Does anyone have any advice on why it may be flooding/running so rich? All adjustments appear to be spot-on, we just can't figure it out. I'm not a carb expert by any means, but even my trusted mechanic is banging his head.
Click to expand...

The number one thing I want to suggest when I read this in regard to old cars, 'rich running' and mechanical pumps anymore is to do a fuel pressure test. After I've found two different aftermarket pumps putting out over 8lbs psi fuel pressure it's my 'go to' suggestion at the behest of FSD and others here who pointed out the trees for the forest. You can still find some properly calibrated NOS rebuilt stock pumps out there, but a $30 fuel regulator solves this problem straight away.
Good luck (y)
 
Howdy Ag!
I put a Weber 32/36 on my 66. I also bought a post 1968 distributor that has centrifugal and vac advance. The 2 bbl carb had more pep. I also put a pertonix kit in the distributor. A 5 speed transmission was the best improvement I made to the car with respect to drivability. As Frakenstang mentioned, fuel pressure could be an issue on carb flooding. I had to install a regulator to get the Weber carb operating properly. You might also check the float level. One last thing with rich carbs, I have an MSD box and the capacitor ignition keeps my plugs clean. My 61 vette has dual carbs and a lopey cam that idles very rich. Plugs used to foul out quickly. With the MSD, i have not changed the plugs in 15 years. It may betreating the symptom rather than fixing the problem, but the carbs are obsolete, and jets are not easy to find.
Doug
Class of 84
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top