Mounting the 2V Intake

I asked this on the Australian piece as well. I just want it to work

I do not know how the bolts go. Do they go through the head to the intake or the intake through the head? Crazy sounding but I put this head on awhile back and had epic failure. I ran bolts through with nuts and studs where needed. Looking at it this time (second install) I swear there are threads on the intake side? Either they were worn out over time or what I am seeing are wear marks. I'm not sure drawing the intake to the head is a good idea but...if that was the design then that is the way I'll do it. Please advise. And thanks for your help, I want this to work this time. I screwed up royally last time I put it on.

Ron

Originally the bolts would of went through the intake to thread into the heads threaded flange, the other way you can also do it is use the correct length and thread size of studs, threaded into the head flange and then use nuts, flat, and lock washers to hold the manifold on. Good luck

If this is the Australian 250 2v cylinder head you are refering to then there are 4 bolts that go through the head into the manifold
along the top and 4 bolts that go through the manifold at the bottom into the head. Also if the threads are stripped
in the manifold you can helicoil them to repair them. Hope this helps

That is EXACTLY what I'm looking at. It seems there is enough meat that I could tap it for the next size? Or is heli coil repair the better option? Thanks for the info.

Ron

The Heli coil is the better option as I think tapping to the next size wont allow you to fit the larger bolt through the
cylinder head. I have done this to my manifold and works well then you can use the original mount bolts which are
3/8 unc if memory serves me correct.

You are very correct I made sure the 7/16 NC would fit through the head and then tapped it out. So far so good on fitment. Heli coils can save the day and they can be a real pain. That is why I opted out. I really appreciate the help. I've made everything fit/work on this car but the head swap killed it. Actually I killed it but that is neither here nor there now, moving forward

Ron

Good Luck moving forward then.

One more question for you, gasket sealer on the intake? I never did that before but they are paper gaskets. The ones I always used in the past (American V8s) were metal or self sealing (FelPro). I will probably have made up my mind before I hear back. It'll be interesting to see if I made the right decision.

Ron

Yes use sealer on the gaskets. The original gaskets ford used to sell were about an 1/8 inch thick and didn't really nead
sealer however I think these had asbestos in them hence why ford stopped supplying them. I had gaskets made from
some good gasket material here in Australia that are thick and don't require sealer. The problem I had with the paper
type gaskets was they sucked in over time and created a vacuum leak. Hope this helps.

Help? Absolutely! I bought the gaskets from Aussie Speed and they are fairly thick. I used a high tack sealant predominately because it is resistant to fuel break down. Why I would have to worry about fuel at that point I don't know. Unless its flooded it should be vaporized. I did make my own and it was an epic fail. The extractor gasket burned out and the leak burned up the intake gasket. This time I used a Remflex exhaust gasket and the Aussie Speed gaskets. Maybe I'll have better luck :mrgreen: Hey, how the flip do you get a torque wrench in that mess? I went with the calibrated forearm but the factory had to do it somehow?

Thanks for your help!

Ron

No Idea how the factory torqued them but 2 clicks of elbow works for me. cheers

:rolflmao: Re:Torque wrench.A friend used to have the same problem.So, after a few tall cold ones,he fabricated some"extensions"to deal with the problem.He bought a set of inexpensive combination wrenches.Cut them in half and then welded some half inch and 3/8th in square ID ends on the cut end.That way he just put them on the torque wrench and snuged the fasteners to spec.Simple.Oh by the way,DON`T forget allow for the extra length of the "extension".You will have to set the wrench for a smaller torque value.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

X2 or you could get a crows foot! They do the same thing we had to use them on some Aircraft engines and is probably helpful working on some motor cycles too.

"...the extra length of the "extension" to the crow's foot. You will have to set the tq wrench for a smaller torque value..."
boy, that's some fancy math if U ask me...
how ja figure THAT out?

Very carefully.The extra length supply`s MORE leverage so less pull is required to reach the desired torque figures.There`s a formula but darned if I remember it.Math majors,time to step up to the plate.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

Measure your wrench in standard form, measure it with your extension. Divide extend length by standard then divide torque required by that number. There's an algebraic way of saying that, but I always had to talk that stuff out.

Correct that if I'm wrong, it's late so one step might be backward.