Duraspark swap

I have a 65 comet 200ci and I finally put together all the parts to swap to a duraspark system. I have it wired the way classic inlines suggests but I can't get it to fire. I get good turn over but just can't get it to fire. A new (but not good) aspect is that I am getting a strange feedback in my system. The starter turns when I am switching from on to off...but not all the time. It happens most often when I give a long start try.

I am sure I could have several things wrong but I have checked the wiring several times and done a voltage check at the spots and in the way classic inlines suggests. Everything is good in that sense.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks all,

- J

i would say disconnect the white wire from the solenoid to the ignition box. it sounds like that wire is getting energized and thus energizing the solenoid. that should end the starter from running while shutting the engine off.

as for the non start issue, check to make sure you have voltage through the coil with the ignition on.

When you say it won't fire, are you getting spark?

Thanks I will try removing the white wire when I get home from work and see if that fixes the starter bumping during the on to off key turn.

So far the only way I know I am getting spark to the plugs is that I have taken my timing light and put the clamp around every plug wire and the light works. But I know that doesn't tell me how much energy I am getting to the plug.

I think I have it timed right. I watched the second valve push in and after as it opened (on the down stroke) I watched that up stroke and thought that was TDC (neither valve moved on the up stroke). I did find that I couldn't chose the tooth I wanted to put the Dist. in on. There were only a couple of ways the Dist. would "fall" in. I assume that is because of the spline I have to drop into. It always put the vacuum tube on the LOM right in front of the oil dip stick (a pain because I had to loosen and move the LOM every time I need to check the oil) and it seems like the same is going to happen with the Duraspark.

Thanks for the help and I will let you all know if I get back feed to the starter tonight...

Have a good one.

Since you mentioned removing the distributor, a common occurrence is to re-install 180° out.
At this point you might want to start by finding TDC on the compression stroke.
Remove #1 spark plug and bump the engine with a remote starter switch while holding a finger over the spark plug hole.
You'll feel a big puff of air.
You can do this with a wrench too but it's kind of awkward to say the least.
Only then can you begin to stab the dizzy in the right spot.

It also sounds like your starter solenoid might be sticking i.e. the starter keeps turning. You can try tapping on it when it dose that, or else replace it. Good luck

I would look to timing, it sounds like you are getting fire to plugs. I like to do the finger in the #1 spark plug hole method as well, but I turn the motor with a wrench. Have the dist cap off and knowledge of where #1 is in relation to the rotor, and then you'll know right away if it's even close when you hit tdc. You've probably done this but of course verify all the plug wires are connected in the proper order.

Great news. The comet is up and running. Thanks for all your help. Now I am having a little trouble getting the vacuum advance to work.

I have set the initial timing at about 11 deg. Then I went to check the vacuum advance and I am not getting any advance. I may have a bad diaphragm but I am not sure. Is that where I should start? She runs pretty well. I am getting some strange lag/surge during acceleration but I got to 55 with no problem. I know I have to replace my exhaust system. My exhaust goes down to maybe 1 inch for some reason. I know I need to address that soon.

Thanks.

Howdy Back J and all:

I'm late on getting to this one but the DS II is designed to work with a ported vacuum source from the carb. What carb are u using? IF plumbed correctly is should have little or no vacuum at an idle.
Is this on a auto trans or stick. IF auto trans, you will likely need about 5 degrees more initial.

Keep it coming.

Adios, David

Hi David,

I am using a carter YF and luckily they have a vacuum line with Dist. next to it. They also have one labeled EGR which I plugged. I don't think that would cause a problem but do I need that EGR vacuum line to go somewhere. Also I am still using the three speed manual...I still enjoy shifting from the column and honestly it is kind of funny when I go to get the car inspected and the guys at the shop don't know how to drive a three on the tree.


I went out to the garage again and recheck initial timing and tried to get some vacuum advance but still no luck. Is it strange that it still drives ok?

I am having a ton of fun working on this car and I appreciate all your help.

Its not strange it still drives OK; I drove the 12 hours straight from Rockingham, NC to my then home in Toledo, OH without ANY advance with the old LOM dizzy when I bought my Mustang. The PO had set it at 10* BTDC and it started and ran fine. Anyway...

When you say no ac advance I'm assuming you are checking the timing with a timing light and moving the throttle or applying a vauum soure to the dizzy while running? The little vac cans on the side of the dizzy do fail and are easy to replace. Just remove 2 scews (5/16" I think) and the end of the tang just slides over a post on the breaker plate. You can do the swap with the dizzy still on the engine. You should also put a vac gauge on the hose from the carb and see when vacuum is applied. If a "ported" source is used from the carb then there should be no vacuum at idle and then the vac goes up as the throttle is opened.

So I found that I had a bad vacuum line. I replaced that and I am getting next to zero vacuum at idle and about 16 Hg at 2200 RPM. With that I think I am getting my 30 to 34 degrees total advance. Do those numbers sound good. I am really not sure how much vacuum I should be getting at higher RPMs.

Thanks,

Jeremiah