Oil flow | rocker arms shaft

roghax85

roghax85

Well-known member
Hello all

again me, ask for help

I have this video about my engine:

my question is if its normal the flow oil and color of oil: 01-05 second .

THanks for your comments.
 
the only thing that bothers me is the lack of oil pressure showing on the gauge, but that might be a plumbing issue. it also sounds like the engine has a slight miss. everything else seems fine.
 
OK.

about my exacly questios is about this picture from the video:

flow_oil_zps6a723ee5.png


my question is if this flow, or output off oil is normal here? or this outpur should is close?

thank you and sorry my bad English.
 
yeah, that flow does bother me a bit, and may be the source of the lack of oil pressure showing. you might pull the rocker arm shaft and make sure the pedestals are clean and the mounting surfaces are flat and sealing properly. and make sure they are properly torqued when you reinstall them.
 
Oil supply at the front pedestal runs down & lubricates the distributor gear at the camshaft area.
You need to check your oil pressure gauge & see if is even receiving oil pressure.
If you have pressure at the rocker arm area you would have to have pressure at all the critical areas except the gauge.
 
Is the oil that murky color as shown in the Video ? It looks to me as if coolant is getting into the oil, No foaming visible but I would hope that the color were more clear.
 
stanyon":3b072gke said:
Is the oil that murky color as shown in the Video ? It looks to me as if coolant is getting into the oil, No foaming visible but I would hope that the color were more clear.
Click to expand...

it is definitely oil.
 
You've got that oil diverting pedestal in the front that I was asking about a while back. That's what is shooting the oil out there. My 250 doesn't have that pedestal but my 144's adjustable valvetrain does. I would check you're sending unit, gauge, or wiring/ground. Short the sending wire to ground to test the gauge, should peg it. Sometimes using teflon tape as a thread sealer can interfere with the ground connection for one wire sending units. I wouldn't recommend using teflon tape ever on an engine anyway if that was the problem, it can get into the motor. The color of the oil does seem off in the video, but you would know best about that, pull the filter and dump some out and have a look see.

Did you make that intake? Pretty cool.
 
wsa111":3loak5ef said:
Oil supply at the front pedestal runs down & lubricates the distributor gear at the camshaft area.
You need to check your oil pressure gauge & see if is even receiving oil pressure.
If you have pressure at the rocker arm area you would have to have pressure at all the critical areas except the gauge.
Click to expand...

Yes. I have another gauge on the engine bay, and it mark 40psi, in low rpm, and up to 45psi when up to 2-3k rpms.

about the from oil supply your explication is perfect. thank you so much.

Thanks
 
Econoline":2spx8im5 said:
You've got that oil diverting pedestal in the front that I was asking about a while back. That's what is shooting the oil out there. My 250 doesn't have that pedestal but my 144's adjustable valvetrain does. I would check you're sending unit, gauge, or wiring/ground. Short the sending wire to ground to test the gauge, should peg it. Sometimes using teflon tape as a thread sealer can interfere with the ground connection for one wire sending units. I wouldn't recommend using teflon tape ever on an engine anyway if that was the problem, it can get into the motor. The color of the oil does seem off in the video, but you would know best about that, pull the filter and dump some out and have a look see.

Did you make that intake? Pretty cool.
Click to expand...

Hi Econoline.

about the color of the oil is no exacly like oil, I thinking is casue the pressure, but when you guys tell me about a posible leak on the water to oil I will think it again.

about the intake

I try to do the intake work for 2 barrel, but always is come broke when warm, I try with cast iron, bronze, and never work, always. broke :(----

so to many attempt, the intake get a big hole jajaja, I have to use this intake to try rescue the cylinder head, but know I have problems of temperature.

the engine up to 110°celcius at 14 minutes. :(

any ideas to what check?

sorry my bad English
 
"...up to 110°celcius at 14 minutes...."
It looks like U have the fan on the engine but I did not see a radiator in front of it (no access to ur vid).
Is coolant circulating thru a radiator as U run the motor?
Some test stands have a radiator (with "window box fan") and muffler w/pipe extending out doors (for safe expulsion of hazardous fumes & lower sound level).

Some 1 else may know the conversion to Fahrenheit. My guess is 220* from the 110* above? Lookin for about 180 - 195* Fahrenheit I believe, sorry no Celsius conversion here...

Your english is much better than my spanish (and MY english)!!!
 
Hi all

again me, I am on vacations, so I can try againg.

I put the engine to start, but this time without the water pump (no running the watter pump) and you can see how expulse or blown the watter when the engine up the 80 celcius.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZYAIgvE51I

80Celcius is 176F

Let me know how I can do to fix it.

the watter pump is new, head gasket is new too. radiator is new too.

I starter later, and I apply watter coold over the radiator, while the engine is running, and the temperature is normal, 70-80Celcius.

Thanks for your help friends.
 
Looks a bit rusty which is normal for an old head and block unless it's been cleaned real well.

Maybe someone put in Dex-Cool and that's why it's orange?
I would completely flush it with plain water until it runs as clear as possible. Then put in fresh green coolant mix at 50/50.

:LOL: Hah, I am fixing coolant leak on my new Chevy( :nono: ) right now!
 
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