About to put head on..tips?

6

62 Comet

Well-known member
Hey guys,

Got my head from the machine shop and I'm looking to put it on this weekend, just wondering if there are any pointers you guys may have.

I've got adjustable rockers and an adjustable push rod, If you guys got tips for getting the length right for those Id really appreciate it and anything else you want to throw in would be great.

Thanks,
Lee
 
first tip, use two long studs to locate the head and gasket and prevent the from moving around on you while installing the head. they can be removed after the head is on and at least two head bolts are installed loosely.

for getting the push rod length right, start by setting the adjusters in the rocker arms at the center of their travel. next install the adjustable push rod, and set the length where there is no vertical travel in the push rod. by the way a little machinist blue dye on the rocker arm tip is very helpful here. once everything is installed and torqued properly, rotate the engine a few times and then pull the rocker arms off and check the end of the valve tip where you put the dye on. there should be a narrow line in the middle of the valve tip if the geometry is right. if not then the length of the push rod needs to be changed until you get the right geometry. might take a few tries so be patient.
 
rbohm":os4un616 said:
first tip, use two long studs to locate the head and gasket and prevent the from moving around on you while installing the head. they can be removed after the head is on and at least two head bolts are installed loosely.
Click to expand...

Brilliant!

I am going to just use some metal roads to do this exact thing.
 
67drewstang":cgf51gax said:
rbohm":cgf51gax said:
first tip, use two long studs to locate the head and gasket and prevent the from moving around on you while installing the head. they can be removed after the head is on and at least two head bolts are installed loosely.
Click to expand...

Brilliant!

I am going to just use some metal roads to do this exact thing.
Click to expand...

metal rods will also work, just make sure they are large enough to just fit in the head bolt holes. what you are really going for is something that will help you guide the head in place without much movement to avoid scarring the head gasket.
 
Years ago I cut the head off a couple of old head bolts, cut a slot in the end for a screwdriver.
I still have them in the toolbox.
Dont forget sealer on the bolt that goes into the water pump area.

Make sure the threads in the block are nice and clean & use some light oil on the threads.
 
Two head bolt holes for the head bolts are made smaller than the rest , just for this purpose. Also in the gasket.
 
Run into a bit of trouble, hoping you can give some advice

I was doing the last round of torqueing the nuts at 75 ft/lbs and the threads in the block above the water pump let go :banghead: and now I cant get that one to torque down.

First thing I thought was to take JB weld, Loctite something along that line and lock the stud in that way, the threads were a bit sketchy but not close enough for thinking this would end up happening.

Lee
 
Oh man that sucks. No band aid fix with that problem, You will have to drill and tap the hole and install a heli-coil. If you mask off the entire top of the engine with plastic except for the area that will receive the heli-coil, you will have no problem and wont have to take anything else apart. They are available at Napa and are great to have around, I think the kit is like 20 bucks and cones with the proper drill and tap, heli coils and the tool to instal them, and i think there is enough in the kit to repair a dozen holes.

Again that truly sucks, but it is an easy fix. Good luck!
:beer:
 
unfortunately the head has to come off to install a helicoil insert. tough way to go, but in the end you get a better repair.
 
Yes of course, sorry I wasn't more clear about that. I didn't mean to imply that the head could stay in place just that the short block didn't need to be removed and carted to a machine shop or anything like that. Thanks for clarifying Rbohm. 8)
 
merccomet":17n7omjh said:
Alright sounds good,

I figure that head gasket is no good now?

Thanks
Lee
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that would be correct. you might also check the rest of the head bolt holes, and make sure they are good to go before reinstalling the head to avoid having to go through this again. run a bottoming tap through each head bolt hole to make sure all the threads are clean and good.
 
I am sure several of us are thinking it but don't want to be the one to suggest it, but I'll be the guy... 8)

PERSONALLY, I would reuse the gasket if you installed it with no adhesive. I won't mention any names, but someone I know (me) replaced a cracked head with another used head in a pinch and REUSED a 70,000 mile head gasket as I had to get to work on Monday. I cleaned it well, sprayed it with copper and ran it without a hitch the additional 20,000 miles until the engine was retired for a full rebuild due to old age. Never leaked a drop. A brand new gasket, never heat cycled, oh yeah, I'd reuse it.

Just food for thought. :beer:
 
its a Victor Reinz head gasket, 0.044" crushed I get 9.05:1 compression, Im tempted to just use it, unlike first foxs' situation Ive got the to be replaced six in the car right now so time isn't an issue, I can get a Fel Pro (0.050" and 8.95:1 comp) for 20 bucks, to me its worth it to not take the chance and the comp. drop which probably wont make any difference. Having it leak later on and changing it sounds a whole lot less fun than paying 20 more bucks.

the gasket left a dark black footprint on most of where it contacted, Its probably alright to leave alone??

Thanks,
Lee
 
if you have a steel shim head gasket, and you were VERY careful not to damage it, and you didnt use any sealant, you might be able to get away with reusing the head gasket, but i dont recommend it. in fact the only head gaskets i have ever reused, because they were designed to be reused, were copper head gaskets on race engines.
 
Sorry about your troubles, Lee. I assume the stud you're talking about is the passenger side front. The problem with that bolt boss is part of it is machined away for water pump impeller clearance. Plus being that its open to the water jacket, corrosion eats away the threads. Do remember to check impeller clearance once the head is bolted on. Check to make sure that the stud didn't crack the block. It will crack straight towards the front of the block where the water pump bolts on. I've had that issue if the stud turns when you're tightening down the nut. It'll act like a wedge where the threads finish off and they are tapered. I'd leave it a turn loose and mark the top of the stud so I can see that its not screwing itself in. I know they recommend the same torque for fine thread nuts on the studs as the course thread bolts but I have to believe that the fine thread will apply more clamping force at the same torque. With these old, worn out rusty threads in these blocks, I would bring your torque levels down 10 lbs. Just make sure you re-torque after some heat cycles. Also be careful about chasing out the bolt holes. Its easy with a sharp tap to remove material. We need as much as we can with these worn out blocks. I use a nylon brush in a cordless drill and some solvent.
 
According to the Falcon Handbook you can reuse the gasket if coolant hasn't been added and the motor hasn't been run. I don't have any experience with this personally. They actually tell you to do it in the mock up for valve clearance.
 
Yep, thats the one.

I didn't know about the different clamping force, that 10 lbs less would have prevented this from happening cuz I got to 70lbs then decided to do 75, although even then it would of happened eventually...better now than later and causing a leak.

For the impeller clearance I just put the stud down until it touched then backed it off a couple turns, figured that would be alright. Fel pro gasket is on the way from RockAuto and looking into Helicoils Mon/tues, although Ive got 3 tests this week so I wont be having any actual progress until next weekend...maybe.
 
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