Head upgrade

chad":1l9zwq7m said:
OK, pic is not back far enuff - but doesn't that tab/arm that sits way over the valve cover have a set screw. I thought that was where some used the hold down function of the unit to secure the outer cable so the inner one could hook to the linkage of the carb. Long enuff cable can have a 1/2 circle in it's length to transverse that 3/4 of the carb.
Click to expand...

I think what you see is the choke cable arm.

Drew
 
"...choke cable arm..."
that'll work, same way.

Not as familiar w/ur carb as some others but many of that era (mine is a carter YF) accept (to me) a more useful 'electric choke'. Just another consideration.
/OR/
(to keep it) As the 2 are the same design - U could also place a 'double' clamp on that same arm u-u (an upside down representation, screw goes thru the 'hyphen') so that the one screw held both cables...

lastly, I scanned over 1 of the pic and saw a possibility of avoiding driver's side of firewall changes. May B the 'bell crank" in the engine compartment could have a cable attached to that?
Any 1 have success w/this last idea? Not sure where to place the outer sleeve hold down (valve cover would not B the most appealing visually).
 
The problem with using the one screw is that a) it's offset too close to the throttle arm, and b) it's too close to the throttle arm.

The offset puts a kink in the cable, and the being too close to the arm doesn't give a cable throttle enough room to fully travel.

It was my first failed idea.

DRew
 
sorry, I may not be seeing it well

"...doesn't give a cable throttle enough room to fully travel..."
if a large sweeping curve to the cable(s) can't be achieved then that may B out (don't C Y that can't B achieved). Altho I don't have the yr/model there is an oem valve cover with a bracket for the cable...

Also I understand there are adapters to put under the carb to rotate it 90* if you think that's an option more workable for you.

Keep in touch as you go...
 
It doesn't matter how large you sweep the curve. It's the final mounting point that limits how far the cable can travel. And since the fitting on the end of the cable is 3+ inches long, and the throttle arm moves about 4 inches, that's 8 inches minimum of reach I need to attain. More like 10 inches, actually, when all is said and done.

In addition, the large log intake interferes with the stock foot feed lever.

I just ordered a Lokar pedal to at least simplify the pedal end; it comes with it's own anchor point. And I will build a bracket that achieves the reach I need, come hell or high water. This way I can come at it from the driver's side, which is a much simpler deal as well.

BTW, I've been using an el cheapo cable up to now, and it has disintegrated in the efforts to get it to fit, so I've ordered a Lokar cable as well.

The other thing I've done is given up on retaining the kick-down cable, so will shift it like an inline manual until I get a more permanent fix.
 
I finally broke down and bought the Lokar pedal. Once I did that, it wasn't even an hour's work to get it up and running. $150 well-spent, imo.

I ended up directly attaching a steel angle to the valve cover; I screwed it on for now, but will weld it to another valve cover and paint it to make it pretty later. The Lokar cable only takes a small tab to make work. I'll post pictures later.

Now to get the set up to run right. I have a definite stumble at idle, which is annoying.

Drew
 
"... I'll post pictures later..."
G R E A T !!!
Congrats!

"...stumble at idle..."
Now onto the next item.
Was it running fine B4 this (w/the orig 1100)?
I remember U hadda replace a prt on the 1101...
 
It ran great with the 1100. I can feel there's more power there with this set up, but it just dies at idle.

Maybe my vacuum isn't completely sealed? I'll check that tonight.

Alternately, it runs better with the idle adjustment completely out, or a slight bit of choke applied. Is it possible that I need a bigger jet in the carb?

Drew
 
67drewstang":1z8aklu6 said:
vntgtrk":1z8aklu6 said:
I'm sure you plan on taking the Crapomatic can off the carb and plugging that hole?
Click to expand...

What does it hurt to leave it on there?

Drew
Click to expand...
http://classicinlines.com/Loadomatic.asp
Here's the skinny on the Load-O-Matic system. It's my understanding that the carb and dizzy have to play together to get the full effect. Running DS11 means it's best to take that can off the carb and plug the hole.
 
I shoulda said this on the previous post. Maybe that Load-O-Matic can, the thingy that looks kinda like a power valve, is causing your stumble. Worth a try
 
Well, messing with the Load-o-Matic can didn't change anything, but finding that the accelerator pump arm was fractured, and not functioning did. It still doesn't run perfect, but it runs better.

Am going to try a jet size down and a jet size up to see what difference that makes.

Drew
 
I've been running ported vacuum with the Load-o-Matic can still hooked up on the old setup, and that's the way it is now. Runs really well, actually.

Speaking of "running real well", I found a mystery jet in my tool box today, while I was getting ready to order some jets to rejet the carb. I looked at it, and it looked pretty close to what I had in there.

Took the top off the 1101 and removed the jet in there, and installed the mystery jet.

You won't believe it.

The darned thing runs perfectly. I didn't even have to screw with the mixture to get it right.

My dad used to tell me that the Rooster thinks the sun comes up because he crows. I think that about describes my perplexity right now. What are the chances of a cobbled together admixture of different parts coming together by chance and turning out this well?

Drew
 
Yep sometimes its just better to be lucky and find a solution by chance :beer: congrats
 
Yeah. I talked to my dad, and he thinks that jet was from my 1969 with a 250 in it. It's been sitting in my tool box for going on 30 years now, and looked like crap, but I could see through the hole, so I took a chance.
 
Sorry, I didn't follow very well...what's the pieces parts (Frank Perdue) now?
L-O-M w/o the SCV? 1101 carb, DSII &...?
Thanks -
(BTW: C any numbers on the jet to ID it?)
 
:cool: :mrgreen: Glad it's running good. Making me think about pulling the head off my '77 250 and taking it to my machinist for a bit of 'massaging'. Let us know about gas mileage, hot and cold starting, the whole schmear
 
You had a lot of work in this and some frustration.
So from a performance standpoint what do you notice?
 
I got 2" dual straight pipes on it today. Sounds just like a 1962 E-type. I need to put attenuators on it to keep my wife from giving me "that face". But for now, I am enjoying the noise.

What I notice:

70 mph is right there. It went "ok" on the interstate before at 70 mph, but 70 mph is the new 55 mph in ease of getting to speed.

Acceleration is still "meh" letting the C4 do the shifting, but if I do the shifting myself, it's quite a bit "snappier".

What it needs:

A T5 manual tranny with a 3.55 or better ratio gear in the rear end.

Sound attenuation. At revs and when decelerating, it has this heartbreakingly delicious WWII fighter sound, but when starting out it has a bit of truck to it, if you get my drift.

A better profile on the distributor. I know with a bit more advance, it would make better power; I had it manually advanced once with the old head and it really took off with authority.

Overall, I learned a ton, but need to get to work on my 1938 Dodge D8 Sedan, which I'm putting on a 1992 Dodge Dakota pickup frame.

Drew
 
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