cam suggestions / info

I have a tri- weber 34 ict progressive setup.

3.55 rear gears 15" rim, tall tires

select shift, H-servo, B&M shift kit : C4 trans

my thoughts are that the 6 is already fast off the line, id like a little more pull in 2nd gear

with the old cam, it would go 0-50 very quick then fall on its face

I never did a cam swap but i know how to do one for the most part.

Im thinking of getting a solid cam since i already have adjustable rockers, is it ok to reuse cam bearings or should i replace? what precautions should i take if i replace cam bearings? can the cam bearings be replaced while the engine is in the car?
 
I would use Classic Inlines 214-214 with 112 L/C. This is a hydraulic grind & will need stronger valve springs.
If you want to go the solid lifter route, get lifters with the laser oiling orifice in the lifter contact area.
Get one with 262-264 advertised duration & 220-222 @ .050. You can check with Mike & see if Clay Smith offers something.
You can check with Comp cams or even Schneider Cams. I would shoot for at least .500" lift.
I would suggest at least a 1.6 rocker arm ratio.
If you have a stock stall converter you better stick with 112 L/C to get a decent idle.
A loose converter would be a real plus.
 
good advice by wsa. personally i would go with a hydraulic cam, i dont like the constant adjusting of solid lifters.

regarding the cam bearings, check them over carefully, they dont get a lot of wear, but they can have issues with pitting and cracking as they age. if they are in good shape, you are good to go reusing them. can they be replaced in the car? not really. you need to be able to see the bearing oiling holes to make sure everything lines up properly as you install the bearings. also you need to make sure they go in straight and that is difficult to do on the first and last bearings. so if the cam bearings need replacement, yank the motor to avoid issues.
 
WSA111, which or what type of valve spings would you recommend with the type of cam you mention?

thx!
 
302 ford small block springs are good ones to use, also clay smith will have a recommendation as well. as i recall you are going to want something with about 100-115lbs of seat pressure, and about 250lbs over the nose, that allows about .520 or so valve lift to prevent coil bind.
 
64 200 ranchero":21dwyk1z said:
so would a 264 214@.050 112 be a good cam to go with? is this the cam you were talking about {wsa111}?
Yes & your present valve springs from Classic Inlines are fine.
 
Umm must be a typo

Your choice is either a 264/264/112 or 264/274/112

So I'm not sure which is being recommended here.
edit: ok checked the link and see that it is indeed the 264/264 of which we speak.
I have the 264/274/112 and while my head is modified I'm limited by the stock 1bb carb and the stock exhaust.
You have headers which might take better advantage of the 274 exhaust duration.
 
i just bought the 264/264 112l/c, i did look at the 264/274 it prob would of worked good since my head is ported and has had larger valves installed but im looking for something that will have more mid rpm pull so i think the 264/264 will suit it well
 
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