Choke thermostat??
- Thread starter jimlj66
- Start date
A little confused here...Are you talking about the heating element for an electric choke? If so then yes it can be tested by wiring a simple lead from the battery to the positive terminal of the element, and grounding the other side. It will heat up and coil tighter as the current is applied and uncoil and cool when powered down. It is actually better to test it on the carburetor and watch to see if it moves the choke mechanism properly when energized. You will have to operate the throttle as it opens though or else it will just stay closed due to the carb/high idle linkage 
it's OK Econo, same idea.
Remove air cleaner to view 'butter fly'. Dial the lill bakelight black cover all the way right & left - leave in the middle (notice hash marks to the left & right of a 'null' mark in the middle).
Do not touch gas peddle or carb linkage, with cool engine have some 1 turn key & attempt to start. Observe 'butter fly'.
After starting/running for 7 - 10 min observe 'butter fly'. Has it moved? If so hot air has risen up from the exhaust manifold and expanded the coil in the lill housing the thermostat resides in. If not he cover will come off & U can see the coli. If it's very rusty (broken, etc) it may need replacing.
Also/alternatively - the 'finger' on the carb linkage operated by the thermostat could be damaged. Check that as well.
Why do you want to know? It is not the only item in the 'cold starting' or 'running too rich' systems.
Remove air cleaner to view 'butter fly'. Dial the lill bakelight black cover all the way right & left - leave in the middle (notice hash marks to the left & right of a 'null' mark in the middle).
Do not touch gas peddle or carb linkage, with cool engine have some 1 turn key & attempt to start. Observe 'butter fly'.
After starting/running for 7 - 10 min observe 'butter fly'. Has it moved? If so hot air has risen up from the exhaust manifold and expanded the coil in the lill housing the thermostat resides in. If not he cover will come off & U can see the coli. If it's very rusty (broken, etc) it may need replacing.
Also/alternatively - the 'finger' on the carb linkage operated by the thermostat could be damaged. Check that as well.
Why do you want to know? It is not the only item in the 'cold starting' or 'running too rich' systems.
Ohhhhh... A hot air choke? God I don't miss those at all as they just suck. Do they make an electric element/conversion to fit these? I had one of these on a quadrajet in the olden days... Electric is soo much better and if is an reasonably priced option, you may want to look into it. 8)
Like I said in my first post, there are no marks on my thermostat. Nothing. Round black housing, coil spring inside and no rich/lean marking to even have a starting point to set it by. In the olden days I messed with a few of these and had fairly good luck setting them but this one is kicking my hind end.
If it is working how fast should it start to move the choke?
I'd love to have an electric conversion if they make such a thing. Anyone know of such a beast?
If it is working how fast should it start to move the choke?
I'd love to have an electric conversion if they make such a thing. Anyone know of such a beast?
"...how fast should it start to move the choke?..."
5 - 7 min, fully op @ 10 fer sure.
"...an electric conversion..."
yes, hook up to stator post on altern.
(put a fuse in mine 4 extra protection)
This may not B da prob, tho. plenty of prts to this system.
need to look at yer post 2 C the problem more cleqarly,
back later...
5 - 7 min, fully op @ 10 fer sure.
"...an electric conversion..."
yes, hook up to stator post on altern.
(put a fuse in mine 4 extra protection)
This may not B da prob, tho. plenty of prts to this system.
need to look at yer post 2 C the problem more cleqarly,
back later...
You have not stated the difficulty you are running into.
What is the condition you wish to correct?
I have more understanding of a Carter but they are of the same era ('66 & mine - '69).
Mine - post LOM/SCV yours - still so equipped.
I'll give it a try but need to know conditions as the3y are...
What is the condition you wish to correct?
I have more understanding of a Carter but they are of the same era ('66 & mine - '69).
Mine - post LOM/SCV yours - still so equipped.
I'll give it a try but need to know conditions as the3y are...
My car is a California car with no LOM and no SCV. I have installed a DSII distributor from a '82 Mercury.
The choke does not work properly. (hot air only, no electric assist) On a cold engine if I set the thermostat to close the choke it won't fully open when the engine is hot. If I adjust to open the choke when the engine is hot it won't close when cold. There is no happy medium. I don't know if left coast cars had some funky non adjustable choke thermostat or not. The thermostat is REAL hard to turn, even with the lock down screws nearly all the way out. All other choke parts move freely. If I remove the air cleaner and manually close the choke the car will start right up. If not it's a fight. The car runs good after warming up.
If someone knows of an electric thermostat that will fit my Autolite 1100, let me know. Since I don't own a 350 chevy the zit faced kit at the parts house can't help me.
The choke does not work properly. (hot air only, no electric assist) On a cold engine if I set the thermostat to close the choke it won't fully open when the engine is hot. If I adjust to open the choke when the engine is hot it won't close when cold. There is no happy medium. I don't know if left coast cars had some funky non adjustable choke thermostat or not. The thermostat is REAL hard to turn, even with the lock down screws nearly all the way out. All other choke parts move freely. If I remove the air cleaner and manually close the choke the car will start right up. If not it's a fight. The car runs good after warming up.
If someone knows of an electric thermostat that will fit my Autolite 1100, let me know. Since I don't own a 350 chevy the zit faced kit at the parts house can't help me.
If you are running with the stock exhaust manifold, there is a port between the 3 and 4 outlets that warms the air to the choke pull off spring. It constantly draws air through the port, even after the choke is fully open. Typically, the space between the two ports burns through.
Not saying you should but if you did take off the exhaust manifold, you would probably find a large hole burned into the riser space. Once this opens, it only gets larger because of the extreme temperature. When this happens, you are sucking exhaust gas into the choke riser tube and into the spring chamber at the carb. This space fills with carbon and corrosive material that rusts the spring or gums up the rod movement.
There are a couple fixes. One takes a fair amount of money and uses a new or intact salvage replacement exhaust manifold. The other is to remove the choke riser from the manifold hole and plug the holes top and bottom. I tapped them and used a couple screws. Then you clean out the spring chamber and clean up the rods real well to where everything moves freely. Then, you get an aftermarket stove and riser tube that does the same thing but does not suck in the exhaust. You can skip the little stove/collector and just wind copper or aluminum tubing around the header somewhere. It just needs to heat the air. I liked the look of a manufactured item.
Not saying you should but if you did take off the exhaust manifold, you would probably find a large hole burned into the riser space. Once this opens, it only gets larger because of the extreme temperature. When this happens, you are sucking exhaust gas into the choke riser tube and into the spring chamber at the carb. This space fills with carbon and corrosive material that rusts the spring or gums up the rod movement.
There are a couple fixes. One takes a fair amount of money and uses a new or intact salvage replacement exhaust manifold. The other is to remove the choke riser from the manifold hole and plug the holes top and bottom. I tapped them and used a couple screws. Then you clean out the spring chamber and clean up the rods real well to where everything moves freely. Then, you get an aftermarket stove and riser tube that does the same thing but does not suck in the exhaust. You can skip the little stove/collector and just wind copper or aluminum tubing around the header somewhere. It just needs to heat the air. I liked the look of a manufactured item.
It also occurred to me that the spring is broken or that you are missing one or the other of the pegs inside the cap that hold the spring in place. That means that you can only pin it open or pin it closed. It could also be that the spring just doesn't move any more due to age. There was no special choke configuration on California cars at this time.
Trouble with working on a choke is that you can only do it for five or six minutes at a time. After that, you are working on a warmed up engine.
Trouble with working on a choke is that you can only do it for five or six minutes at a time. After that, you are working on a warmed up engine.
Did something similar on my '77. But having about a mile of brake line left from plumbing my truck project, I used that. I also fabbed up a heat stove from a tomato paste can and held it on with a hose clamp. Fortunately there's a spot between #2 and #3 where it hides well.ludwig":qkc5g6ej said:If you are running with the stock exhaust manifold, there is a port between the 3 and 4 outlets that warms the air to the choke pull off spring. It constantly draws air through the port, even after the choke is fully open. Typically, the space between the two ports burns through.
Not saying you should but if you did take off the exhaust manifold, you would probably find a large hole burned into the riser space. Once this opens, it only gets larger because of the extreme temperature. When this happens, you are sucking exhaust gas into the choke riser tube and into the spring chamber at the carb. This space fills with carbon and corrosive material that rusts the spring or gums up the rod movement.
There are a couple fixes. One takes a fair amount of money and uses a new or intact salvage replacement exhaust manifold. The other is to remove the choke riser from the manifold hole and plug the holes top and bottom. I tapped them and used a couple screws. Then you clean out the spring chamber and clean up the rods real well to where everything moves freely. Then, you get an aftermarket stove and riser tube that does the same thing but does not suck in the exhaust. You can skip the little stove/collector and just wind copper or aluminum tubing around the header somewhere. It just needs to heat the air. I liked the look of a manufactured item.
Ludwig, Thanks for the explanation on how the hot air choke works. Once I get it into my pointed little head how something works I can usually troubleshoot my way through it.
I finally had the time this afternoon to work on it a bit. I took the choke thermostat off and could see no sign of exhaust gas getting into the thermostat. I assume that if the exhaust manifold was burned through the port I would have some exhaust leak and noise? I can't feel or hear any at the opening where the tube goes into the manifold. It did appear that the tube was plugged when I first tried to blow through it. A couple taps and it cleared out although I couldn't see anything that came out of it. I put the thermostat in hot water and the spring moved about 3/4". Cold water made it move right back. I think the thermostat is working although I don't know if there should be more movement? I put it back together and adjusted the choke to close,(cold engine, cool garage) and started the car. After about 5 minutes the choke opened. I had never actually watched it before. If the hot air tube was plugged it could explain why it never seemed the choke was working correctly. I'll pull the air cleaner off before I start it in the morning and see if I have a working choke.
Thanks again!
I finally had the time this afternoon to work on it a bit. I took the choke thermostat off and could see no sign of exhaust gas getting into the thermostat. I assume that if the exhaust manifold was burned through the port I would have some exhaust leak and noise? I can't feel or hear any at the opening where the tube goes into the manifold. It did appear that the tube was plugged when I first tried to blow through it. A couple taps and it cleared out although I couldn't see anything that came out of it. I put the thermostat in hot water and the spring moved about 3/4". Cold water made it move right back. I think the thermostat is working although I don't know if there should be more movement? I put it back together and adjusted the choke to close,(cold engine, cool garage) and started the car. After about 5 minutes the choke opened. I had never actually watched it before. If the hot air tube was plugged it could explain why it never seemed the choke was working correctly. I'll pull the air cleaner off before I start it in the morning and see if I have a working choke.
Thanks again!
Ahh, the beginning of wisdom.
You are lucky then if the tube plugged up before all that crud got in there. Signs of burn-though run from carbon build-up all the way to melted cap and warped rods.
If you think you need to lubricate something, use graphite, not not oil. Graphite will not gum up.
You are lucky then if the tube plugged up before all that crud got in there. Signs of burn-though run from carbon build-up all the way to melted cap and warped rods.
If you think you need to lubricate something, use graphite, not not oil. Graphite will not gum up.
Also,should you desire to convert to an electric choke,check in the "Help" section at your local parts house.IIRC,those kits run somewhere around 10 or 12 bucks.Maybe less.Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
woodbutcher":zdx5yvir said:
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
Nothing like thqat at our place. I got Ford, but also put a lill fuse in, just incase. the power is from the low power screw on the back of the alternator. (forgot how it was labeled - any 1 able to tell him?).
Stator lug.The "Help"section of the parts retailers store is the peg board area where the merchandise is in bubble packs with the name"Help"on them.Don`t recall ever seeing a parts retailer without that section.Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
Thought I'd post an update.
In the 5 years I have owned the car, it has never been eaiser to start or drive since working on and fixing the choke. Something so simple has made a world of difference in the enjoyment of this car.
I think my problem all along was a plugged riser tube. Everything else seemed to be moving freely. Now the choke closes when the engine is cold, and opens like it should as the engine warms up. The car starts with a pump or two of the gas. You can drive without stalling long before the engine is warmed up. My wife will even drive it now.
Thanks for all the help guys!
In the 5 years I have owned the car, it has never been eaiser to start or drive since working on and fixing the choke. Something so simple has made a world of difference in the enjoyment of this car.
I think my problem all along was a plugged riser tube. Everything else seemed to be moving freely. Now the choke closes when the engine is cold, and opens like it should as the engine warms up. The car starts with a pump or two of the gas. You can drive without stalling long before the engine is warmed up. My wife will even drive it now.
Thanks for all the help guys!
"...starts with a pump or two of the gas..."
I don't know if Evanston is in the prairie or up the mountain (may B doesn't matter anyway) but 'one pump' (B4 turning on the ignition key) will set the 'step' on the lill carb linkage. Just do that then turn the key. It was designed to start that way.
Observe the linkage, have some 1 tap the gas peddle to the floor, and look at the change. I think there is 2 or 3 steps on there.
Glad things R operating so well now!
I don't know if Evanston is in the prairie or up the mountain (may B doesn't matter anyway) but 'one pump' (B4 turning on the ignition key) will set the 'step' on the lill carb linkage. Just do that then turn the key. It was designed to start that way.
Observe the linkage, have some 1 tap the gas peddle to the floor, and look at the change. I think there is 2 or 3 steps on there.
Glad things R operating so well now!