how bad can i hurt my engine

when i bought it about 5 years ago the guy who sold it to me said that it was rebuilt 2 years ago, so about 7 years. i checked it out and it did look like it had a budget rebuild done using some old parts like the water pump and fuel pump, i had to replace both, when i took the water pump off, the inside of the block looked spotless, when i installed my tri-power head 3 years ago, the pistons didnt look bad. the engine does have a hotter cam than stock but im not sure what cam it is, i installed high ratio rockers and double valve springs, i will normally take my engine up to 4000rpm continuously on the freeway, never had a problem. i did rupture an oil cooler line once and didnt catch it till i got to work so i drove it low on oil without knowing it, im sure that has a big part in this
 
64 200 ranchero":ym89qxqb said:
yes i will be changing my oil, i think i will be using valvoline racing oil straight 30w along with some break in additives and high zddp assembly lube
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I'd definitely NOT use a straight weight oil with or without zddp additives. There really is not oil sprayed on the lobe and lifter interface. all they have is splash oiling. Room temp straight 30 weight oil won't splash nearly as well as say a 10W30 or a 5W30 would.
Just because the car engine is oil doesn't mean you need to run old speced oil.
 
i have always used 10-40 or 15-40 synthetic, i think my oil pressure would go down too much if i ran 5-30 i might be ok with 10-30. i do run this engine very hard sometimes. the only reason i said straight 30 was, i was thinking of switching to valvoline racing oil since it has zddp in it. i thought they only made it in 30,50 and 20-50 but i just found some 10-30 on ebay
 
What kind of spring pressures are you running with those double springs? Running high pressures will wipe out cam lobes. I have seen guys install new double spring sets, not check the pressures, and wipe out cam lobes on used and new cams.
 
Not to hjack your thread man, but racing oil in a daily driver is not a good idea. The additive package is not suitable for long oil change intervals and there are much better oils out there for your money.

Also as an FYI; 10w30 and 5w30 as well as 0w30 are all the same viscosity at operating temperature. The first number is an indication of the cold start viscosity of the oil. 5 is "thicker" than 0 , but not as "thick" as 10, again when cold. The 30 designation indicates the same flow characteristics between the three when hot. :beer:
 
i decided to go with lucas hot rod/classic car oil 10-w40, it is a street oil. i have used 10-30 before and notice that my oil pressure go's down a little on the freeway
 
close in price to the others but w/some nice additives for these vehicles
YES - New Thread in order!!!
 
I thought conventional oil, with enough zddp, was really only important for the first 5K or so then after that switch to synthetic. That's been the plan for my rebuild when I get it back on the road.
 
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