Finished large log head swap... throttle cable next?

kerb12

Well-known member
After struggling for a long time trying to get Weber carbs to run well on a 2-1 adapter on my small log, I finally bit the bullet and swapped in a large log with a direct mounted Autolite 2100 (1.08) and fired it up yesterday. Idles great right off the bat! Had to lean out the mixture screws a little, but I'm pulling more vacuum and my a/f ratio is much more steady than before. Some pics below...

Now... with the Webers that I tried, I was able to keep the stock pedal linkage (this is a 66' mustang) and use a bellcrank for throttle. The Autolite linkage needs to go parallel to the firewall though (towards the valve cover) and I can't think of any way of making this work other than switching to a cable. It seems like all the posts I can find on here used custom made carb brackets though, and I'm not a metal guy... Anyone get this working with a store bought bracket? Lokar makes one called SRK-4000 that looks like it might fit, but I have a feeling it's going to hit the valve cover. Any advice??

 
Interesting, going up and over the valve cover is a good idea. He doesn't mention anything about where he got that bracket though... that didn't come stock on later model 200/250's did it? I'm guessing he made that?
 
Well Pep Boys had the lokar bracket in stock so I picked one up to give it a shot. Unfortunately it doesn't fit, but it was pretty close, it just needs to sit a little higher to clear the valve cover. So I picked up a pair of 1-1/2" L brackets from the hardware store and bolted them together to act as a riser:



The fit is pretty much perfect. It feels solid, but I'm a little worried about how rigid it will be when the cable is pulling on it, so I'll have to do some testing when my pedal gets here:



Here's how it looks with a quick mock up of the cable and return springs:

 
What's bad about that orientation? I was thinking about reversing it, but the fuel bowl hits the valve cover so I would have had to stack spacers... and then worry about hood clearance. It's pretty tight as it is...
 
I posted my reasons why , but I am sure you haven't seen them , having the carb the way you have it now favors the cylinders directly behind the carb ( at part throttle) all you need to do is picture airflow through the cab, I have done tests that affirm this , under Idle or Wide open no big deal , I realize its harder to mount but that doesn't change the fact of what it does , good luck
 
Huh. I hadn't thought about it that way. So is forward airflow mechanically more efficient for these engines?
 
I think he's refering to the side the butterflies open being towards the cylinder ports as mounted, tends to speak in riddles. But practically, that's the only way to mount it. That's the way I'm going to mount mine. With these heads those 2 cylinders are always favored. Nature of the beast, I wouldn't worry about it. In the grand scheme of things, air in air out. It's got to come from somewhere, each cylinder has the relatively the same draw and outside of a vacuum leak it's coming through the carb. Center cylinders are maybe getting a slightly richer mix at low rpm, whoopty do, that's the way Ford made them.
 
LOL :D I'm sure you do know what you're talking about Faron. The point is, ideal these heads are not in the first place when it comes to fuel distribution and it's impractical to mount a 2100 with the bowl torwards the rocker box. Lot's of people have run that configuration. And I suspect with a phenolic riser, 1" would be better, and the mounting plate the problem with butterfly orientation is being minimized.

Btw, nice looking install. Are you worried about the bracket getting tweaked by only having a single point mounting?
 
I would not sweat this situation. Yes at part throttle the reverse would be a plus, but you are going to have to add at least 1"-1.5" of spacers above the log to just clear the lower part of the throttle linkage any way. This will help the condition a little.
I would suggest jetting the front jet one size larger than the rear main jet & that will help the lean front cylinders. Remember liquid fuel runs toward the rear on any carburated engine on acceleration.
On the center cylinders you could build an epoxy dam to prevent some of the liquid fuel from partically richening of the center cylinders.
Another option is angle the bore of the spacers toward away from the cylinder head.
Maybe when i drive its either at idle or full throttle cause the plugs on the center cylinders look the same as the others??
 
Falcon, interesting, I didn't think about that. I did some measuring and the butterflies only open 1/4-1/2 inch from the base of the carb, and I have 1-1/2" of spacer and adapter, so I hope some of it bounces around a little like Econoline says. I think I'm going to run it this way for a little while once it's finished and see how the center plugs look. If it's really bad I'll consider figuring out how to mount it the opposite way.

Econoline, thanks. Yeah, I am a little worried, but there's really nothing pulling on the adapter from the cable side, so it's just just the tension of the return spring pulling the throttle linkage back... I can't even get the bracket to move when I'm pulling on it with my hand (other than the bracket itself slightly twisting), so I can't imagine the spring is strong enough to have any effect. I was thinking I could make it stable by having someone weld a flat strip of metal to the back of the brackets, going towards the firewall, and mounting to the back carb stud.
 
Been a few weeks, but I converted over to a Lokar pedal, got everything buttoned up, and chased down some electrical issues. Took it out for a couple short drives and then a good half hour ride this morning. Good news is that the engine seems more steady - vacuum is higher and less jumpy, a/f ratio at idle is a pretty consistent 13.4-13.6, and it starts instantly.

On the downside though... I have to say I'm a little disappointed with the power. I didn't expect a v8, but it doesn't feel a whole lot better than the Weber 32/36 on the small log. Off the line feels pretty good but midrange and top end feels like it's running out of steam. It's almost like there's no difference between having the pedal halfway down and flooring it.

Think I need something bigger than the Autolite 1.08?
 
Howdy Back All::

I'm late joining this discussion, but here goes. If you ever checked spark plugs with a stock one barrel, the H/W or ? you would have found the the center plugs always show richness over the #1 and # 6 plugs. As someone already said, "That's the nature of the beast". I've tried "turtle" lumps on the floor of the intake log to divert flow with no success- only frustration. I set the float bowl level to the high side and never had fuel starvation on my 250.

I am puzzled by the lack of top end. I'd recheck to make sure the butter flys are opening all the way at full pedal first. Then recheck ignition advance. What is the static CR on your engine?

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
kerb12":30mcohja said:
Been a few weeks, but I converted over to a Lokar pedal, got everything buttoned up, and chased down some electrical issues. Took it out for a couple short drives and then a good half hour ride this morning. Good news is that the engine seems more steady - vacuum is higher and less jumpy, a/f ratio at idle is a pretty consistent 13.4-13.6, and it starts instantly.

On the downside though... I have to say I'm a little disappointed with the power. I didn't expect a v8, but it doesn't feel a whole lot better than the Weber 32/36 on the small log. Off the line feels pretty good but midrange and top end feels like it's running out of steam. It's almost like there's no difference between having the pedal halfway down and flooring it.

Think I need something bigger than the Autolite 1.08?


Yes, you probably do, although there should be enough meat to take it out 150 thou to up to 1.23...if you break through the casting, you can JB Weld/Devcon it, and emery paper the venturi profile back. Bigger than 1.08 carbs on 200 sixes are hard to calibrate, and even Jeep guys with 258's seldom go above 1.08's.

When tuned properly for air fuel ratio at wide open throttle, the 1.08" venturis always cost top end power when compared to 1.21, 1.23's or 1.33's.

David's(CZLN6) brother Dennis (Hot 6t Falcon) has used the 1.21 and is looking at the 1.23 in his 250 I6. Mostly, we give up on the four bigger 2100 Autolites and 2150 Motorcraft's because they are so bitchy to get to work at the idle and cruise air fuels right in a 200 cube level...common complaint is that your fuel consumption will skyrocket with bigger venturi carbs, which is often right as they run very different power valve restrictions, different well tube sizes, different idle air blead restrictions. The Autolite is set up more like a Bendix WW in the way its calibrated, so the K cluster is calibrated by Ford for each instillation. The idle jet in 27 to 32 thu sizes goes down the tubes, and well tube failure influences idle as well. An important point, and what makes the Autolite/Motorcraft carb a little bit tricky to trouble shoot.

The efforts we have are here are always in making the factory fuel curve work without too much extra effort on a small Ford I6.

This is why people at Ford Six tend to only get good results with the smaller sizes of the eight types of generic 2100 series carbs, excluding the two later 200 and approx 360 cfm 2150 Motorcraft. The 1.01 was the first carb, a 240 cfm item in 1957 Yblock base engines. Then FoMoCo started fidling with it for the smaller and larger engines.

2100 Autolite 0.98 = 190 cfm 20 thou under, 30 cfm less, 57 Ford Y-Block V-8, 135 hp 221 2-bbl, 1962 221 FORD FAIRLANE AUTOLITE 2100 0.98
2100 Autolite 1.01 = 240 0 thou over, 0 cfm xtra, 1st 57 Ford 272 190 HP Y-Block V-8, 164 hp 260 2-bbl, 1963 260 FORD FALCON FAIRLANE AUTOLITE 2100 1.01 C3OF-E
2100 Autolite 1.02 = 245 10 thou over, 5 cfrm xtra, 164 hp 260 2-bbl, 1960 198 hp 292 FORD FAIRLANE GALAXIE AUTOLITE 2100 1.02 C0AE-H
2100 Autolite 1.08 = 287, 70 thou over, 47 cfm xtra, 200 HP 302 V8s from 1968 to '73
2100 Autolite 1.14 = 300, 130 thou over, 60cfm xtra, 1964 - '67, on 289s and 302s 200 hp 289 2-bbl, but also the Annular Discharge California 1966 289 carb
2100 Autolite 1.21 = 351, 200 thou over, 111cfm extra, 351 250 hp 2-bbl, 1973 351 MERCURY COUGAR COLONY PARK MOTORCRAFT 2100 1.21 D3MF-DA CARBURETOR
2100 Autolite 1.23 = 356, 220 thou over, 116 cfm xtra, 1967 - 70 from a 351 or a 390 engine, 351 C 265 HP 2-bbl, 255, 265,270,275, or 280 hp gross
2100 Autolite 1.33 = 424, 320 thou over, 184 cfm xtra, '75 F150 133" 360FE, 390 is 255, 265,270,275, or 280 hp gross


The problem is Ford profiled the air fuel mixture to suit V8 engine applications from 135 hp gross to 280 hp gross (approx 100 to 195 hp net) by the four and five hole brass emulsion tubes they called well tubes. The well tube or K cluster assembly selection calibrates the carb to suit applications.

Unlike the Holley Weber and Weber's, Ford's well tube cracks often along the 4 or 5 holes in the brass tube, and it causes other drivablity problems. Jeep guys use the Autolite/Motorcaft 2-bbl on there 232 and 258's and what they don't know, you aint got time to learn. Here is some really good tech info to show how to fix them if they are cracked.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=70651&p=554757#p554757

Just making sure it isn't cracked is a vital first step. If it is, you can get a supply for a small cost if you know who to ask, or you can solder up the stock tube, or even remake the tube, all pretty easily.

Holley did the same as Ford in calibrating the imortal 2300 2-bbl series, and ran a range of venturi sizes to create five kinds of carb.
200 (Tripower 289/406/427 inner carbs)
265 or 275 cfm (Tripower 289/406/427 outer carbs, or Early AMC 60-64 AMC 250/327 v8,PN 2040/2228/2442/2463, and 64-70 IHI V266,V304/V345, PN 2520/2977/4574/6380/6386 (Holley 2300c series) cfm depending on if it had the truck or car booster),
then 350 (PN 7448,9117, 7217 etc),
500 (PN 4412)
and 650 cfm carbs (PN 6245)

they were, respectively, factory 1.0625, 1.125, 1.1875, 1.375 and 1.4375" ventui carbs (lets call em 1.06,1.13,1.19,1.38, and 1.44".

The Holley 1.19" was the standard SP 221 2-bbl 166 hp carb for the Argentine performance Falcons, and ran a 53 to 56 jet, 6.5 power valve, and Holley RX 7217 part number carb from the factory for years. If an Autolite 2100 1.21 or 1.23 is found, it can be calibrated by K cluster assembley to copy the factory 166 hp I6 settings, with a Holley power valve, reprofiled stock jets to Holley jets sizes, and it will certainly work in the bigger sizes. That's what I run in my Fox Mustang, with a 53 jet.

The way to reprofile the stock Ford F code jets is to solder them up, and then have a jewler copy the Holley 53 to 58 call size jets, which should get you close. A good jewler can actually make a whole brass jet in the Ford F pattern screw size, but in the listed Holley jet profile. That kind of jet will flow very close to the stock flow rates listed in the link.

If the air fuel ratio is lean or rich, you can then add or remove one hole from the stock 5 hole K cluster. This is the method David Vizard used for Holley and Weber carb calibration, and it is the secret to creating a proper fuel curve for our 2-bbl carbs, no mater if its Autolite, Motorcraft, Holley, or Holley Weber.

Good thing is, Autolite 2100s, Motorcraft 2150s and Holley 2300 series carbs aren't really sensitive to emulsion/well tube calibration, but it certainly leans or richens up fuel delivery if its a problem at the low or high end, and its very easy to fix if you have access to an air fuel meter. Its easier than making a hash of the idle air bleads

Note that after 1964, Ford rehashed all the formerly Holley jets to the Autolite/ Motorcraft F jet calibrations due to intellectual proprety issues, as Fords purchase of Autolite was crossing over Bendix patents, and Ford eventually ran foul of Government anti trust legislation, and its was why Autolite became Motorcraft, and FoMoCo had to shell out to Bendix Stromberg over patents and purchase of Autolite. The Holley to Ford interchange is listed here below on oriface size.

The F jets interchange on oriface/drill size to flow rate, but they don't physically interchange due to the screw size being different.




After 1964, the Ford F stamped jets and Holley jets divereged. If the Holley 350 cfm 1.19 carb in the 166 hp 221 SP ran 53 to 56 jets, you'll get away with going down about 3 or 4 jet sizes in a 1.21 carb if your engine is simarly kitted out.

Due to the flow rate and profile of the Ford xxF stamped jets after 1964, all 2100 and 2150's and 4100's get away with lots smaller jets in Fords F stamped jets than the same size venturi Holley 2 and 4-bbl carbs.

A set of 43F are like 47 Holley jets by the way they flow in cc/minute, 20% more than a Holley 43 jet
A set of 47F are like 51 Holley jets by the way they flow in cc/minute, 15% more than a Holley 47 jet
A set of 50F are like 54 Holley jets by the way they flow in cc/minute, 15% more than a Holley 50 jet
A set of 58F are like 62 Holley jets by the way they flow in cc/minute, 21% more than a Holley 58 jet.

The Autolite/Motorcraft flow rate curve is dickey, though. Due to the way in which Holley's oriface sizes differ from the Holley call size, and how Holley flow rates change, its unlikely a Ford jet stamped 72F would out flow a 76 Holley jet by 25%.



See as well viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68684&p=526505#p526505
 
CZLN6, I'm not sure what my static C/R is, but I'm using stock rods, stock-type dished pistons (.030 over), the head was milled .060, and I'm using a Victor Reinz gasket (I think .042?).

xctasy, like usual, tons of great info here... thanks!

One thing I did notice when I was driving it last night was my c4 seems to be shifting earlier than it used to, which leaves me in 3rd more than I'd like to be. Also, since converting to the throttle cable I haven't hooked up a kickdown cable yet, which really changes the feel of the car when I want to gun it while I'm already moving. I tried "manually shifting" to hold it in lower gears longer and it felt MUCH better... so maybe I just need to take care of both of those first. I could be just getting fooled by the trans.

Maybe worth biting the bullet and finding a 67+ c4 valve body so I can manually shift easier and put a shift kit in too.
 
Absolutely Yes, Yes, and Yes!

1. Any street driven car with a C4 should have a functioning kick down linkage to help control the shift points!
2. Installing a 1967 or newer Select Shift valve body is about the best improvement that you can make for any 1964 to 1966 C4!
3. Installing a good shift kit is the next best improvement you can make for a 1967 up valve body!
4. Installing a good adjustable vacuum modulator (if you don't have one already) also helps with adjusting the transmission's shift firmness.
Drivability will be greatly improved with those simple fixes. Good luck :nod:
 
Okay. With a "Green Dot" C4 You can not shift manually, but any other kind of C4, you can shift manually. Ford uses vacuum and a modulator to signal transmission load, they never used a TV cable as such. So you even if its "Green Dot" , you can still thash it royally with out ever killing it, unlike the AOD. It will perform better with a factory Ford cable or rod kickdown on the Autolite, but will work best with the Lokar AOD system reworked.

If you have a cable C4 automatic, Lokars high mount conversion system that jahearne uses allows both C3/C4/C4 and AOD systems to use the same cable.

On any engine, from a V8 to an I4, the Ford C3/C4/C6 kickdown only operates at near wide open throttle. Originally, the Autolite had the Ford kickdown lever, but you might not be able to use it, the I6 rocker cover makes the angle too steep to operate it without binding. Here is a video of the Lokar cable on a V8 C6 and its adjusment. The cable is only supposed to recieve 1/2 inches of kickdown cable pull out, so factory setting is about 2/3rds of the normall 2" of wide open throttle pull out. That's means it starts action on the kicdown cable at 1 -1/2 inches of throttle cable pull out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRuCQx5aaEg

I know there is a world of difference between an AOD TV cable and a C4 kickdown cable, but jahearne had exactly the same issues with his 250/Autolite 2100/AOD 67 Fairlane pickup, since both he and you can't easily low mount the kickdown on the bottom of an Autolite 2100 the way it is. That pesky I6 rocker cover messes up any options of doing the normal SBF two wire "accelerator carb top" and " kickdown lever bottom set up.

For C4 or AOD, the small six I6 kickdown throw and geometry is pretty difficult with a Ford Autolite 2100/Motorcraft 2150 or Holley 2300 2-bbl. Good thing is FoMoCo worldwide actually sorted all this out with the Australian Falcons in 1965 when the Borg Warner 35 option came out. Then they had C4 or BW 35 options, 2-bbl I6's. Then the English in 1973, and Germans in 1974 copied it with the 2-bbl Solex and Weber carbed Cologne V6's which run a Lokar style kickdown lever for the C4 and C3 automatics.

His solution here
viewtopic.php?f=76&t=66073

jahearne":nqggu282 said:
The transmission wasn't toast when I first got it. It worked quite well only the shift points came on too soon. It shifted into third at 35 mph in city traffic. Nothing a shift kit couldn't take care off. And of course overdrive kicked in whether you wanted or not; having an overdrive lockout is a great addition.

Adjusting the TV is extremely important with an AOD and a fairly simple process if you have an OEM setup or a carb with an adaptor kit from Lokar, which I had neither.

I adapted 250 throttle linkage bolted to the valve cover operated from 1970 Mustang throttle pedal and cable. Also used a Lokar TV cable to the AOD. It's not a perfect setup, but it works; however, a constant pressure valvebody takes the worry out of it.


I went with a 289 GT air cleaner, CI chrome valve cover and DSII with emission stickers and PCV it almost looks like a factory option, but then the wrapped header and aluminum radiator gives it away.

Thanks,


So you can use either the cable kickdown as per his AOD set up, or the factory FoMoCo rod set up as described below.

The one piece kickdown rod can be found on almost post-68 Ford with a V-8 and a C-4. Early Mustang, Cougar, Falcon, Comet with a floor shift will have the correct linkage arm for the cable kickdown. Do you a have linkage from a C-4 with a floor gear selector and cable kickdown on your 66?

The later Ford automatics use a hollow, one piece rod that go from the transmission to the carburetor linkage to actuate the kickdown.

The earlier transmissions use the cable.


The stock later X-shell ( post 1969, when they started using an engine mounted rod kickdown on Maveric, Mustang, Granada, Monarch) and Fox body rod operated C4 kickdown is a very good fitment. It eliminates roll out thump that happens in a poorly adjusted C4 cable kickdown, and is one of Detroits nicest kickdown levers.

The conventional rod system is below.


The other option is use the stock Lokar C4 cable kickdown, but with the C4 adjustment setting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_LgYvGOFV4


You can use the AOD throttle valve, but it must be changed to ensure there are a few degrees of lost motion before it kicks down.

The AOD set up uses the 1957 AMC/Ford Borg Warner 35 system of 1/8" slack, then 1-3/4 total pullout, but with a 35 psi Throttle Valve line pressure check.


The AOD operates off a standard 80 degree swing Holley/Autolite/Motorcraft throttle, with 1/8" lost motion at idle, and full pullout of 1-3/4" at approx 80 degrees. The amount varies depending on idle setting. The link here describes it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5JediOEQ3U

Now, if you try persisting with using the stock post 69 to Fox Ford rod kickdown,



you then have a much bigger problem because

1) you cant allow the stock Autolite 2-bbl throttle shaft to operate it across the shaft from the throttle, its a no no :nono: , as it will overload an snap the carb shaft.
and
2) If you turn the carb around so its float bowl is facing the I6 rocker cover, and hook the throttle wire to the top of the carb, then the carb won't be able to operate the kickdown because it then travels in the wrong direction.

There is no easy solution unless you use both an intermediate shaft like on Colton Anderson's F100 Truck, and a drag racers roller bearing pivot like a set of big Dominator dual quads.

I did one on mine, and was abble to use the stock C3/C4 kickdown rod, but it took a lot of working out.
 
jahearne's pictures

jahearne":12rpffim said:

See this as to why the stock Lokar low mount won't work well.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=70901&p=545832#p545832

kerb12":12rpffim said:
.....
One thing I did notice when I was driving it last night was my c4 seems to be shifting earlier than it used to, which leaves me in 3rd more than I'd like to be. Also, since converting to the throttle cable I haven't hooked up a kickdown cable yet, which really changes the feel of the car when I want to gun it while I'm already moving. I tried "manually shifting" to hold it in lower gears longer and it felt MUCH better... so maybe I just need to take care of both of those first. I could be just getting fooled by the trans.

Maybe worth biting the bullet and finding a 67+ c4 valve body so I can manually shift easier and put a shift kit in too.

This is why it feels like its not showing the power gain you expect. A stronger engine under load will hold on in each gear, and be always changing up, as if the gearing has been extended. Each full throttle upshift should be at a high rpm, and harder than before. The kickdown linkage sure helps increase the maximum upshift speed in drive. If you notice the Held accelartion is better, then the eliminated kickdown is the problem. If accelration above maximum torque (ie after 1600 to 2400 rpm on these engines ) hasn't improved, then its transmission.

Two alterations have cancelled the net gain. Better breathing/carburation has been taken out by the kicdown cable elimination.

Do check full pullout on the carb. Wide open throttle is 80 degrees, and about 2 inches of totla cable movment. You do need to have that.

Looks like your a happy factory Autolite 2-bbl 2100 convert. There are many of you guys around.
 
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