increase oil pump pressure?

M

my way

Well-known member
Ford 250 high performance build, and am wondering what's available to boost oil pressure-like a stiffer bypass spring. On the old SB GM we used regular volume pumps with a spring to boost the pressure. with decent clearances the volume was adequate . What do you all do in this regard?
This will be a solid lifter engine if that is a consideration.
My Way
 
with proper clearances, the stock oil pump will do very nicely, you dont need anything more unless you are going racing. in that case you can shim the pressure relief spring to increase pressure.
 
Yes-It's going racing. This build is the developmental model to educate me and find potential problems. Thought there might be a spring fir from another application some one had discovered. Think I would like to start at 60 + Lbs. @ operating temp.
My Way
 
Drag racing in a maverick mostly. Do have a fantasy to go to Ohio for the East Coast Timing Association competition either in E or F engine class without blower . Even though the vehicle will be licensed for the street, every day driveability is not much of a concern. Early efforts may not all be successful !!
My Way
 
somethings you can do to the oil pump is to deburr all the parts. you also want to smooth out the oil passages as much as possible, both inlet and outlet. and while you have the pump apart, make sure the pressure relief valve moves smoothly in its bore.
 
Then just add a washer or two on the spring or swap it for one with more push pressure until you get the oil pressure you want. Good luck :nod:
 
bubba22349":1nf7hf2d said:
Then just add a washer or two on the spring or swap it for one with more push pressure until you get the oil pressure you want. Good luck :nod:
Click to expand...

Kinda like to get it right the first time before it's all closed up and in the vehicle :p With all the experience here and world wide that frequent the forum, gotta think some body has a specific info. like use a certain spring or shim so many thousands.
Thanks for the help so far :)
My Way
 
my way":1bbi5c76 said:
bubba22349":1bbi5c76 said:
Then just add a washer or two on the spring or swap it for one with more push pressure until you get the oil pressure you want. Good luck :nod:
Click to expand...

Kinda like to get it right the first time before it's all closed up and in the vehicle :p With all the experience here and world wide that frequent the forum, gotta think some body has a specific info. like use a certain spring or shim so many thousands.
Thanks for the help so far :)
My Way
Click to expand...

about the only thing you can do is measure the length of the spring in its position in the pump, then measure the spring rate at that length. that will tell you what the oil pressure should be. then figure the spring rate you need, and how thick a shim you need to reach that pressure.
 
Inspect your distributor gear, cause Ford under designed this gear.
Id rather you use a main bearing with 270 degrees of oiling rather than put the increased load on the distributor gear.
I still have 1 gear left with a Rockwell C hardness of 40+ compared to the stock 27 hardness.
All Ford gears are subject to this problem unless you supply extra oiling to that area.
$50.00 for the last gear I had nitrated hardened.
 
6000, is pushing the Breathing capability of a log headed 250 even with Triple Carbs , The Log becomes a restriction , also unless you have the Very early Narrow Timing Chain , it too becomes a liability ,A Blueprinted combo including Forged Pistons,along with Very Good Machine work and balancing is a must , My 250 never saw north of 4900 and I ran low 14's at 91+ MPH, I believe there was a bunch left BUT Finances made me sell it before it was fully sorted , I shimmed My Oil Pump 1/4 inch and that gave me 40-45 at Idle and 65+ at anything above 3500, as for a Gear problem , I have NEVER ran into it , But there was a rash of Bad heat treat on cam and lifter components for a while
 
Just when I thought I had it all fiqured out :oops: Actually thanks to all of you-someone else's experience is cheaper and faster than trial and error although it will come to some of that. Don't have enough time for describing the whole build and learning curve so far.
100% volumetric efficiency at a tad over 5000 rpm=1 horsepower per cubic inch. Increasing volumetric efficiency and or RPM increase horsepower. So 100% VE @ 7600 rpm should give around 1.5 HP per CI at the flywheel theoretically. Getting above 100% VE would also increase HP So development with that in mind is my effort. Granted this is impossible with a cast log manifold. I have the CI alloy head in the wings and am working on an intake with individual close to equal length runners using two or three carbs for it. Because my early efforts have a fair chance of grennading :roll: and the alloy head was back orderd for 7-8 months, I cut the outer part of the log off of a 73 head-starting grinding and making port parts out of exhaust tubing lab metal(a kind of fabricating metal putty) and radiater hose and clamps. So far have box type log with 11 in valve to opening runners fabricated-NOT RUN YET. When asking about the GM Vari-jet carbs over at the "Stove Bolt" sight, the knowledgeable gentleman informed me it would be problematic for equel air fuel ratio and distribution because of not enough heat and velocity-extra carbs would help-but?? so might try 3 webers.
Also have a couple sets of the old 3 liter BMW alum manifolds Two of the runners on each half are close on spacing with the outside port at leas a half in. off This has possibilities by cutting the runners short and using portions of exhaust tubing bends etc.
Back to the block--Have a 250 bored .030 a 250 crank ofset ground for 2.1 dia 6 in gm rods. Think that got a tiny .011 stroke increase. balanced and knif edged. rods have extra side clearance and are a bit offset for the V8 application. Major weak point is cast pistons and would spend the money for forged even for the first build now. My thinking was I have run the hell out of cast pistons on claimer motors and this was a smaller bore lighter piston with shorter top end run times. Time will tell. There's more--but enough to explain my oil pump question and get some heads shaking :D
fergot-CI 292 solid cam on 108 lobe cent.
getting the intake and exhaust tuned with the proper cam events is my search-trying to get the rest to stay together long enough!!
MyWay
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top