Freshly rebuilt engine questions

Ok, first off, I'm an OTR truck driver, so I don't get home to work on my car all that often. I finally got the newly-rebuilt 200 in the Mustang, got everything hooked up, and I want to get it running next time I'm home. It's a pretty basic rebuild, nothing major. No headwork beyond new valve seats and replacing the valves that needed it, shaving the head a little bit, and shaving the exhaust manifold mating surface. Block decked, bored .030 over, crank turned, etc. Just a basic rebuild the way the nice, patient old man at the machine shop advised me to do it. This is my first rebuild, and I assembled the freshly-machined parts myself with a little help from a gaggle of half-drunk hillbillies. Sounds fun, right? Like I said, I got it in the car now, and I have a few questions.

1. It doesn't run yet! I hooked up the battery, and it was dead. I had just charged it, but then left it hooked up to my other new project, an '84 VW diesel, which drained the battery overnight. So there's a fun thing to fix on the bunny! But I digress. I tried the battery from my Dad's first-gen Scion xB (1.6 liter motor) and it acted like it wasn't getting enough juice. Turning over real slowly, making a popping sound, and getting the battery cables so hot they started smoking at the solenoid on the inner fender. So I got a new solenoid (or starter relay or whatever the hell you call it), and put a charge on the Mustang's battery. I also double checked to make sure I'm not out of time. Sometimes you have to double check things when your friends are half-drunk hillbillies. Then I poured a little gas in the carb and tried again. The bigger battery had it turning over faster, but still a bit slowly. The cables also didn't get as hot. It kept "popping," too. Like it was trying to backfire through the carb, but with no fire or big bang like a real backfire. Then my starter stopped engaging the flywheel. It just spins and whirrs now. So I figure I'll get a new starter and try again next time I'm home. Given this information, does anyone have any ideas? Maybe I'm not getting a good ground? I have the ground cable at the motor mount.

2. Proper timing. When I said I checked the timing, I mean I confirmed that the number one piston was at TDC at the same time the distributor rotor was firing at the number one wire. I don't know about setting the actual TIMING timing, if you know what I mean. I usually just turn the distributor until is sounds good, or use a stroboscopic timing light, but both of those methods require a running engine. Any suggestions?

3. Carburetor size. The car had a 144 out of a 1960 Falcon when I got it. I found a real 200 from a '67 Mustang to rebuild. I have the carb from the bigger motor, but I already know the Falcon carb works, and I've cleaned it, and the car is set up for it. I want to switch carbs eventually, but with having limited time and just wanting to get the dang thing running, I threw the old Falcon carb on the new engine. My concern is that, with the old carb having a smaller venturi, and being jetted for a 144, I might be running too lean for the bigger engine, and end up damaging my motor. Any thoughts?

Thanks for everyone's consideration. Sorry if these are stupid noob questions.

Oh yeah, I forgot number four! The head isn't the best, and the top, rearmost bolt hole on that ear where the exhaust manifold bolts to the head had broken off the head. Someone welded on a nut to replace the hole. Anyway, I put the engine together, bolted on the exhaust manifold (using the specified torque), and left the thing in the shed until I had time to put it in the car. Somewhere in that time, a crack developed in the head and pulled the nut and some of the original head to which it is welded towards the exhaust manifold. How much should I worry about this? Should I just leave it? Should I try to weld the crack? I don't know anything about welding cast iron. Should I just throw some JB Weld in there?

Thought you would have had more replies by now-any way I'll give it a go and eventually get corrected if I'm wrong
First off the dist turns half speed of the crank on a 4 cycle eng. So you could have the dist firing in top center of exhaust instead of compression. Make sure both valves are closed at top dead center on #1 when you set the dist position fire there. Firing at the wrong time can raise cain with the starter!
Next-new rings in a freshly finished bore drag pretty hard-hopefully that is all your fighting-That will break in pretty fast. I found out a new rope rear seal adds some drag too, but if it's turning you should be ok if the timing is OK
The old carb has the correct vacuum connections for the old dist. so it should work for start up. that 68 200 carb should be from that same vacuum advance hookups and work better matched to the engine and give a dab better performance. There are numerous one barrel up grades-just be shure the vacuum porting is for the right dist. That was changed in the early 70's I think.
JB weld is great stuff in the right place-Temps over 400 will break it down though and exhaust is way too hot.
When you get it fired pay attention to the temp and oil pressure and get the timing dialed in.
Go to the technical part of the" Classic Inlines " site and study
My Way

I had a similar issue this past spring when i dropped in the new distributor. I was extra careful about getting the thing dropped in with the right orientation but still had it off 180*. Fired up like a champ once i spun her around. Once you have it running you will also have the carb/distributor issues to sort out with respect to the spark contol valve. I think it will still run with a mis-match, but she'll be a dog. Hopefully amfew more seasoned folks will chime in here and tell you I'm all wet and set you in the right direction.

Probably the best advice you could get is to buy the "Ford Falcon Six Cylinder Performance Handbook" by David and Dennis Schjeidahl.
E Bay or Amazon have them. Covers the evolution of the engine with part #'s and interchangability. with a lot of experience on what works.
My Way

Sound's like you're 180 off. Check tdc with a finger in the #1 spark plug hole, when it pops out you're on the correct stroke.

regarding your timing issue, it sounds like the distributor is 180 out, as a couple of others suggested.

regarding your starter issue, it sound to me like the starter isnt operating properly. you might have it checked over to see how much amperage it is drawing, and have it checked for proper operation.

regarding the carb, if it was a good one when you pulled it from the old motor, it will do just fine a=on the new one.

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I already have the Falcon Six book. That's how I know my carb has the smaller venturis. Well, that and I looked. I'll put the other carb on eventually, as it's just a matter of swapping out the automatic choke for my car's manual setup, and a few other differences. The vacuum stuff is the same. I was just worried that the smaller carb would run lean and damage my engine.

Yes, it had occurred to me that my distributor could be firing on the exhaust stroke vice the compression stroke. I'm pretty sure that's what it is now, as you guys have confirmed that my car's behavior is systematic of such a condition. How can I tell without taking off the head? Someone said something about putting a finger in the spark plug hole. Will I be able to feel if the valve is closed by reaching my pinky finger in there or something?

I'm just gonna buy a rebuilt starter. Sixty bucks at Napa, and I'll have the peace of mind of a good part.

You should be able to hear and or feel the compression as it pushes out the spark plug hole when # 1 is on the right stroke. You can also place your finger over the outside of spark plug hole or a piece of tissue paper the compression will push it off. good luck

Ok, well I got a new starter and redid the timing on my motor. Removed the distributor, took the #1 spark plug out, removed the valve cover, made sure both valves were closed when the #1 cylinder was at TDC, and set the distributor back in. Now it doesn't backfire through the carb, but it doesn't run, either. It kind of "thumps" every few revolutions. "whirr whirr whirr *thump!* whirr whirr *thump thump thump!* whir . . ." Maybe I have the timing off just a little bit? Any ideas?

Do you have a remote starter switch or someone to turn the car over while you rotate the distributor a little? I think that's the best way to rough it in. Once it 'runs', your timing light will take you the rest of the way.

OK now your on the right side of things on the comp stroke. To get closer just line up the timing marks on the balancer then insert distributer with rotor on # 1 plug wire terminal. A friend or remote starter switch turning it over, adjust until it just quits bucking against starter. Hopefully it will start adjust advance JUST DOWN from highest idle speed-Set the carb idle adjustment for around1800 to 2000 rpm. run for 20 min without load monitoring oil pressure and temp. This will keep oil flying around for wear in lube of cam and rings. Change oil and filter- time according to proper procedure. Drive for about 1000 miles at varying rpm and load. Change oil and filter-this time preferably with synthetic oil. Should be good to go
Just the way I was raised other helpful views or criticism welcome
Myway

O--if still don't start make sure your getting spark and gas!!

It's alive! Thanks for the help, everybody.

congrats on getting it running