What's the latest on flat tappet cam oil?
- Thread starter Vaughan_D_W
- Start date
turbo2256b
Well-known member
Vaughan_D_W
Active member
Thanks for the informative posts, everyone. Especially that graphic with the different types of oils. I never knew any of that! So I went out to the shed and found five quarts of oil. Two quarts of 5w-30 SL, one quart of 10w-40 SJ, and two quarts of 10w-30 SM, which also claim to be compatible with SL and SJ. So it looks like I'm set! To all the people who shared their favorite ZDDP additives, also many thanks, and I'll check those out later, but right now I'm broke as a joke and want to run my car!
Sounds like me. Always check that you are not over supplying on the original specification, especially on old Over head Valve engines, and gearboxes.
I'll give you an example. My Counter Wally suppliers in New Zealand don't supply the minimum recommendation oil for any particular car, they attempt to make you pay for the next option up. A lot like the Ford Merchandize With Options schitk, but a lot worse and potentially an abuse of the sacred supplier customer relationship.
An example is that with my 1996 RAV4, it requires only Semi synthetic 5w30, but the supplier only stocks Fully synthetic 5w30, and makes you pay 87 dollars for a US gallon of it, and, cha-ching, 40 dollars goes to his coffers.
When I go asking for oil, the Counter Wally always says what car?
I tell him Diesel Rotella Shell 15w40 like FSD, and they are taught to second guess you, just on the grounds of being a smart supplier. The truth is that if it over supplies on the orginal specification, then someone is diddling you the extra dough. Always...
Same with gasoline grade. My RAV4 is a JDM 11:1 170 bhp 3SGE, and it requires 95 octane. So Why put our pump 98 octane in it for 40 cents a US gallon extra? My Mustang needs only 87 octane, but they only have 91 octane here, and that's my only choice. Back in the day, we had standard 83 octane, and I know my Mustang would have run on that.
Same issue with ATF Fluid. For a while, when the suppliers didn't have the exact correct interchange for Dexron II or Type F, instead of just recommending a Dextron III or Mercon V top off, they suggest a filter change, a fluid removal, and then result in you potentially ruining your transmission. Common council for a few years was to do a lot of other stuff which could ruin your transmission.
Generally, with the exception of the ZDDP, old Ford engine stuff is designed around rope seals, or replacement neoprene seals, or cam technology that, because of catalysts and exhaust emissions, rules out certain options. Don't over supply thin grade oils for an engine designed to run 20W 40.
Same with old Automatic transmissions, or even newer World Class T5's. They might have had a certain ATF requirement, but you only have to meet the minimum, no upgrades to the original spec. If its Non World Class 4 cylinder T5, it might just have had a normal EP grade oil requirement.
Don't be easily conned. Do the research. It's no problem if there is a butting of heads between divergent opinions, as long as you get a definitive 'Way Forward'.
I'll give you an example. My Counter Wally suppliers in New Zealand don't supply the minimum recommendation oil for any particular car, they attempt to make you pay for the next option up. A lot like the Ford Merchandize With Options schitk, but a lot worse and potentially an abuse of the sacred supplier customer relationship.
An example is that with my 1996 RAV4, it requires only Semi synthetic 5w30, but the supplier only stocks Fully synthetic 5w30, and makes you pay 87 dollars for a US gallon of it, and, cha-ching, 40 dollars goes to his coffers.
When I go asking for oil, the Counter Wally always says what car?
I tell him Diesel Rotella Shell 15w40 like FSD, and they are taught to second guess you, just on the grounds of being a smart supplier. The truth is that if it over supplies on the orginal specification, then someone is diddling you the extra dough. Always...
Same with gasoline grade. My RAV4 is a JDM 11:1 170 bhp 3SGE, and it requires 95 octane. So Why put our pump 98 octane in it for 40 cents a US gallon extra? My Mustang needs only 87 octane, but they only have 91 octane here, and that's my only choice. Back in the day, we had standard 83 octane, and I know my Mustang would have run on that.
Same issue with ATF Fluid. For a while, when the suppliers didn't have the exact correct interchange for Dexron II or Type F, instead of just recommending a Dextron III or Mercon V top off, they suggest a filter change, a fluid removal, and then result in you potentially ruining your transmission. Common council for a few years was to do a lot of other stuff which could ruin your transmission.
Generally, with the exception of the ZDDP, old Ford engine stuff is designed around rope seals, or replacement neoprene seals, or cam technology that, because of catalysts and exhaust emissions, rules out certain options. Don't over supply thin grade oils for an engine designed to run 20W 40.
Same with old Automatic transmissions, or even newer World Class T5's. They might have had a certain ATF requirement, but you only have to meet the minimum, no upgrades to the original spec. If its Non World Class 4 cylinder T5, it might just have had a normal EP grade oil requirement.
Don't be easily conned. Do the research. It's no problem if there is a butting of heads between divergent opinions, as long as you get a definitive 'Way Forward'.
thesameguy
Famous Member
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w-40 is available just about anywhere and has an astonishingly high level of zinc. Used on my flat-tappet turbo cars for many, many years with great success. I've switched to Motul (bought in bulk from Amazon.com) by and large, but M1 High Mileage is a great choice too, as is Rotella. It's cheap, too!