What's the latest on flat tappet cam oil?

Vaughan_D_W

Active member
Ok, so please don't crucify me, because I did a search on it already, and it seems like there's not a whole lot of agreement, and some of these posts are old. I just got this newly-rebuilt engine started, and ran it a little bit, and now I need to change the oil. The only ZDDP additive I can find locally is close to 20 bucks, and I ain't got that for my toy right now, especially when I can't even afford to insure it for use beyond my street anyway! But I got a set of gauges and a carb to rebuild, and nothing to do this Christmas, and I don't want to keep running the same damn oil in it. So what's the deal with additives or special oil after break-in? Am I dooming my engine to an early death if I slap on a new carb and some gauges, change the oil with Napa dinosaur bones, and annoy the neighbors in my unregistered car?
 
Yes, oil containing the correct amount of zinc is mandatory from now on for the rest of the life of your engine. It's not just a one time thing, or it will send your engine to an early death as you mentioned.
 
You can pick up a bottle for half that on Amazon and other places online. My engine builder also said to add ZDDP with every oil change.
 
Damn it, you people are supposed to tell me what I want to hear, not what I need to hear! I might have some actual 40 year-old oil somewhere, though. I remember a buddy of mine insisted I have it one day when he was drinking heavily. It's actually in a cardboard cylindrical can with a metal top and bottom.
 
Vaughan_D_W":3ucue440 said:
D*** it, you people are supposed to tell me what I want to hear, not what I need to hear!........


:rolflmao:

Everytime I come here, the very same problem. :banghead:
 
There are Variables in play here , After break in , using any of the Diesel 15w-40's , Valvoline VR series etc, would give you plenty of Zinc, without needing to add , the Spring pressures used on a Falcon 6 are low compared to most combos , and the 1.5 ratio rockers are also easy on valvetrain , if your seat pressure is under 120, and open under 300, you should have no problem with any racing oil , Most Synthetics , ( unless they say they have added zinc ) do NOT have what I feel comfortable with using.
 
So how old does oil have to be, to be ok? I found several quarts in the back of the shed that have to be at least a decade old.
 
Vaughan_D_W":e9ek7xi3 said:
So how old does oil have to be, to be ok? I found several quarts in the back of the shed that have to be at least a decade old.


you need to read the AP rating on the oil container. eggzample: SF , SG , SH

I use an addituve : ZZDPlus , I buy it on ebay .
 
... it changes, currently the widely advertised brand motor oils are not considered suitable to flat tappet break-in or performance. "Off road", "Racing", mail-order oils and additives with suitable wear protection ZDDP are commonly used by flat tappet engine enthusiasts. Chain auto parts stores usually carry the "racing" Oils with non API ratings or "for off road use" disclaimers with the banned wear additive.. .

currently i'm using additive with zddp and good diesel oil API C4 , 15/40 in drivers, straight 30 when needed.



SN Rated Motor Oils : The latest service category rating for gasoline engines starting in 2011 model year cars and light trucks is "SN." ... One of the major changes with the current SN motor oils is that the amount of phosphorus anti-wear additive allowed in the oil has been reduced to 800 ppm (parts per million).... on pushrod engines with flat tappet cams, the level of ZDDP may be inadequate to prevent cam lobe and lifter wear. This is even more of a risk in engines if stiffer valve springs and/or higher lift rocker arms are used.


have fun
 
I look for old bottles of SJ. :p
http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm
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Vaughan_D_W":3fvmvo3f said:
Damn it, you people are supposed to tell me what I want to hear, not what I need to hear!

no no, everyone is supposed to agree with me or X regardless of what we say. :p :p
 
Retro oils are avalable from Brad Penn , Schiefer oil (SP), Amsoil some others. Diesel oils dont contain zinc or realy only low levels allowed in most oil today. Also there are custom mixed oils ans synthetics not made from the typ substances that are mixed for your engine and mods done to it.
 
You are mistaken on The Diesel oil statement , IMHO,as AGAIN , The Falcon 6 Does NOT use the Spring Pressures of ANY V-8 Combo out there , Know What you Have and WHAT You need , Or just Waste Money , I still wonder why I post sometimes :banghead:
 
it changes ... , API SN [now] and Diesel CJ-4 .. :unsure:

Hemmings (2012) :

With respect to readily available oil, you can see from the chart that, if you can find oil still on the shelf rated SJ or SL, you can use them, but you are right on the cusp of voiding a warranty. New SM oils are just not going to cut it unless they have a zinc additive to boost the rating and one of the zinc supplements should be used with these oils or oils containing additional ZDDP additives are recommended. Some enthusiasts have recommended using commercially rated CI-4 15W40 diesel oil to meet the zinc and phosphorus additive requirement; however, CI-4 is an old specification and hard to locate. You can see that the CJ-4 specification that now supersedes it is well below acceptable levels. Our best recommendation is that you contact your oil supplier for exact additive contents.

- See more at: http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012 ... 2mz6H.dpuf

have fun
 
And Again , The Current Diesel is STILL Plenty for a Falcon 6 , Who on here has a seat pressure above 110 on your Cam ( most have no clue to that spec , not a Dig just a fact ) My 250 Ran Rotella 15W40 after Break In with 115 on the seat and 275 open This hash of MAGAZINE Specs is why I get so discouraged , at times IT DOES NOT APPLY !! , ok I am done with this Topic Just, Spend away :roll:
 
This is were I HAVE OIL MIXED FOR SOME OF MY VEHICLES http://bndautomotive.com/.
Also have run flat tappets newer low zinc oils after using retro oils for some time with no issues. The zinc actually phosporous is either slow or fast acting it fuzes to the metal and is not as necessary aafter that
Seat pressure is around 140 on one of my engines. Havent had any oil mixed for my 460 yet.
 
Just purchase semi synthetic Brad-Penn Racing oil. It contains the proper amount of zinc & phosphorous.
It also has detergents for street driving. The best of both worlds.
75% of you owners probably need more valve spring pressure for the aftermarket cams you run just because you did not use the recommended pressures by the camshaft grinders.
The Brad Penn oil will also protect the under designed distributor gear used on all Ford Products.
Lucas also markets the above additives for close to $10.00 which can be added to any oil.
!0W-30 is the normal recommended viscosity for these engines.
 
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