potential junkyard haul: yeah or nah?

Ok, so I went to the Pick-a-Part today, and didn't quite get done pulling stuff before they closed, so I'm planning on going back first thing in the morning to continue. This is what I got going on:

Car is an '83 Fairmont. I'm pretty sure it's a 200 with a hexagonal large log head. I'll get a better look at the water pump tomorrow.

1. Dizzy - I pulled what I'm pretty sure is the DSII dizzy. The Falcon Handbook seems to back that up. It's got a big cap on it, a coil, a module mounted on the inside of the fender, and a mess of wires and vacuum lines. The price list indicates a distributor - electronic w/o coil is 40 bucks plus 5 dollar core, a coil is 10, and an ignition module is 16 bucks. It seems to be in a good shape. There's a little wear on the gear, but no play in the shaft at all. It's probably minimal wear on the gear anyway, but I'm not experienced at examining dizzy gears. Doesn't look bad at all. So what do you think? Is this a good buy, or are there things I'm not thinking about that could end up costing a bunch of money, like a fried module or something? What little parts might I be leaving behind? If I just get the dizzy, coil, and module, with attached wires, am I good? I read something about vacuum canisters in the Falcon Handbook, but I don't know . . . Am I better off just getting the kit by the time I spend money fixing all the problems with a junkyard dizzy?

2. Carb - Oh man, if this thing ain't a mess! Wires and sensors and vacuum lines galore! I tore them all off and I'm looking at a rather bulky and ugly mass o' carb. According to the Handbook, it's a Holley 1946, which "became increasingly more encumbered with emission controls and electronic feed back devices and lack some tune-ability" (p. 28). Worth it? Price is 27 dollars plus a 5 dollar core. I might want to use this for a turbo if I also get the next item . . .

3. Head. Like I said, I'm 99.9% sure this a large log, 1.75" carb bore head, which means I couldn't use my Offy tri-carb manifold. Thus the turbo comment above. I'm doing one or the other eventually. It seems to be in fantastic shape. I was talking to another guy next to me who was pulling parts off an El Camino, and when I pulled the valve cover off this head, he said, "Wow, that's a new head!" It's dirty on the outside, but reeeaaaallly pretty on the inside. I want this head. But when I looked at the Handbook, while it says that the '77-up heads are the most desirable (p. 8), the spec charts stop at '80 (p. 7). So what gives? Do the '81-up heads suck because of smog stuff? I can see there's an EGR hole that would need to be plugged on the intake. Actually, that's why I didn't finish pulling it before closing time. I couldn't get the exhaust manifold off because the EGR was blocking my wrench. I'm bringing a hack saw tomorrow. If I go back to get it. Should I, or am I getting an emissions nightmare? Cost is 60 bucks with a 10 dollar core. Hopefully they don't try to charge me extra for the intake manifold.

4. Right next to the Fairlane is a '76 Mustang II with a complete front suspension and steering system. Worth pulling, or would it be the same cost as a kit by the time I freshened up all the worn parts?

I hope there's some night owls out there tonight. I'm going back to the junkyard for the 8:30 opening, in the rain, to get my parts before someone else grabs them.

Thanks for the help, in advance.

I say go for it. That stuff won't be around forever. ~OO6.

unless someone has changed things, that fairmont has the 200 with the large log head, and the DSll ignition system. grab them. i would also grab as much of the ignition wiring harness as possible, as well as the box.

leave the mustang ll alone as there isnt much you can use from it, save the ignition box and a few other bits and pieces.

Well, I got the box, the dizzy, and the coil. Set them on the front seat, since I was the last out and I'll be the first in. I cut the wires off as close to the loom as I could. There's a lot of them! What about the vacuum lines? I'm pretty sure I want that head, too. The only thing I'm not really sure about is the carb. If I stay with my current head or another small-log head and go tri-carb, it would look ugly as hell, and half the appeal of a tri-carb setup is good looks. If I go with this bigger head, I would want turbo. Would that carb work well for turbo? I remember there was a guy before who turbo'd a Fox body, and he used a single barrel Holley at the start. I think that thread has disappeared and he is no longer an active member.

rbohm, I was talking about grabbing the M2 front suspension, since it's a popular swap. However, I've heard that, by the time you replace worn out parts on a junkyard M2 setup, you might as well buy a kit. Then again, I've heard that from rich old guys who have money to build fancy T-buckets.

Howdy Vaughn:

Sorry to be so late getting here. I spent the day at a car show in Mesquite, NV. Whoa!!!! what a day. So to business. You got the good stuff on the DSII, right on!

The '83 head is also a keeper. That's the next one on my bench. Good valves and seats, good log volume. 62 cc chambers for a turbo. It is likely an E0xx casting although some have reported an E1xx casting. Yes, grab the head for that price.

The '83 Holley #1946 is the worst of the worst, IMHO. I think the low speed idle screw is even sealed on this year. This was close to the last carb in the 200 line up. If I were doing a draw through turbo I'd be inclined to look for a Carter YFA from a late 250 or a pickup with a 240 or 300 six.

No opinion on the MII front end stuff.

That's my two cents, for what it is worth. good luck.

Adios, David
.

i agree with david on the carb, it isnt worth the time to pull it from the motor, except to replace it.

if you want to build a draw through turbo system, then go with either a holley 2300 or autolite 2100 two barrel carb instead. they are super reliable and flow plenty of air for a small six turbo system for the street.

regarding the mustang ll suspension stuff, unless you know someone doing a super cheap suspension swap, or are restoring a pinto or mustang ll, leave them be. if you are going to do a suspension swap, aftermarket parts are cheap enough these days to leave teh stock parts in the dust price wise and performance wise.

Yeah!

Although 1-bbl carbs are a lot more complicated than they should be, they do work if you know what you can and cannot get away with.

Flade99 and Mr Mootsie have made this bad boy work, but you have to run 7 volts to the choke, and a powered bowl vent solenoid.If that crap isn't hooked up, it gets kinda hard to adjust. And a standadrd Fox air cleaner with a proper air cleaner. That helps. Others have used the awfully small Carter YFA air cleaner you can get from ebay. Its too small, but it allows you to see the carb....



See viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68598

an exploded view of a 1946

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs ... 086bc0.gif

Don't be afraid of it, don't confuse it with the feedback YFA or 6153's or the 1945's.


Only problem is useless info, like Autozone calling it a Holley 1964 in Fig. 31 Holley Model 1964. and then making you troll through 51 pictures, most of which aren't 1946 Holleys

http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Fo ... 5280086bb4


And the float bowl is at the back, but the carb fuel inlet is at the front.

Its a very good carb that flows about 200 cfm, has a huge venturi, large throttle, and is able to match any other single barrel for hp, its rated at 85 in the T codes, 91-87 in the B code, and 87 in the X code, but its is jetted with a close limit Holley 65 or 652 jet, and you can adjust the accelerator pump action and change things around if you understand the orginal EVAC settings. You can jet it up to suit the needs of a 120 hp engine if thats what you have. It fits a C4 or C3 or C5 kickdown rod, and is a very easy carb to adjust. Which is good, since it does need by the book adjustment before it works.

What is strange is Carter YFA is the same cfm, same venturi and throttle size, but it pumps out 110 HP on a 258 AMC , and 120 HP or so on a 4.9 F150, but only 72, 80, or 85-88 on an SOHC Lima 2.0/2.3 four. But most are feedback carbs, with a Fuel Solenoid. A 1946/1946C/6149 doesn't have a feedback system. The YFA is a real hard carb to tune, but its got lots more adjustabity to air fuel trim, 67% is the power difference from the same size carb. One does 38 mpg in a Ford Ranger 2.0, the other does 21 mpg in a Ford F150.


Grab the 1946C/6146 if you want. It is not a traditional fedback carb, never has been, it does have many vac fittings, but its easy to work around. Most people think its a full feedback carb, but its not.


Its easy to rekit. Here's the kit http://www.walkerproducts.com/_pdf/holley1barrel.pdf

Her's how it differs from the other Holley 1-bbls.
http://www.walkerproducts.com/_pdf/holley1barrel.pdf


Ford had problems in that the big 4.1 (250)/4.9(300) ran a Carter YFA, the 3.3 (200) after 1978 ran a 1946. They changed everything about the carb and its the little things that confuse you.

Its not a Holley 1940, nor a 1945/6145 from a Chrysler Corp 3.7 feedback on non feedback 225 Slant. , nor a 1949/6149/6153 from a 2.3 HSC, its a strange hybrid. The thing is that its float often soaked up fuel, and there are many sources of potential leaks, especially the later B and X codes. The T code 78-80 is a very good set up.



They have never done me any harm, but on the Foxes, they do operate in a non feedback system wihout a Fuel Solenoid, its only the O2 sensor which is feedback. The rest of the carb, the idel solenoid, its not the same as the MCU, EECIV items as used on the carb Tempo/Topaz HSC 2.3 or the F150 4.9, there is no Thick Film Igntion interface.

The main issues are the float level, the myriads of tiny channels and check ball and the four bolt adaptor, which is aluminum on iron and zinc oxide, and its the worst kind of thing to keep leakfree.

The later B and X codes have a different kind of cylinder head EGR and thermal light of converter. They can get choked up, and when you put em on a normal early six, not everything lines up without leaks.

9 times out of 10, its crud in the fuel. Don't use Teflon tape, WD 40, CRC 556. And make sure you buy the rekit from Mikes Carbs, and clean it periodically. Crap in fuel kills a late model 1-bbl carb