Autolite 1100, No Vacuum

Sprint1966

New member
I have an autolite 1100 on a 1966 200 cubic inch I6 that is not putting any vacuum out to the distributor. Ive tried to rebuild it but it may not be right. Vacuum on the manifold line is at 18, idle is at 600-650 rpms, timing is stock 12 BTDC. This is the carb with the spark control valve. Any ideas would be great
 
Are you sure it's not putting out to the distributor? Maybe the diaphragm on the distributor is not working.

You can check the hose to the distributor at the diaphragm. Get a new, clean piece of hose and plug it in at the bung below the carb or where every you are taking the vacuum. Touch it to your your tongue while the engine is running. Make the hose long enough so you don't have to lean over the engine. Just because. If you find this too gross, you can use your vacuum gauge instead.

If this has vac, turn the engine off. Then plug the (new, clean) hose to the diaphragm and suck. Watch the rotor and see if it moves from this suction. If not, it's there. However, if both are working, it's probably the hose. R n' r.

Keep the extra hose with your tools. You can use it to test other stuff. I also used it to blow stuff out of hard to reach crevices where the air compressor hose was too big or too powerful or not close byl. And you have extra hose.
 
ludwig":2w14j3ml said:
Are you sure it's not putting out to the distributor? Maybe the diaphragm on the distributor is not working.

You can check the hose to the distributor at the diaphragm. Get a new, clean piece of hose and plug it in at the bung below the carb or where every you are taking the vacuum. Touch it to your your tongue while the engine is running. Make the hose long enough so you don't have to lean over the engine. Just because. If you find this too gross, you can use your vacuum gauge instead.

If this has vac, turn the engine off. Then plug the (new, clean) hose to the diaphragm and suck. Watch the rotor and see if it moves from this suction. If not, it's there. However, if both are working, it's probably the hose. R n' r.

Keep the extra hose with your tools. You can use it to test other stuff. I also used it to blow stuff out of hard to reach crevices where the air compressor hose was too big or too powerful or not close byl. And you have extra hose.

I've tried reading from both ends of the line with my finger and my gauge. I can't feel it and it doesn't read on either end. Right now I feel like there's something out of place in the carb
bubba22349":2w14j3ml said:
:unsure: Have you read the excellent article yet on how the LOD system functions? It maybe of some help in your search for answers. Good luck :nod:

http://classicinlines.com/Loadomatic.asp

I have seen that article, it's great. It's actually the first thing I consulted. I tried replacing the spark control valve to see if that would get me anywhere but that didn't seem to work.

Thanks guys!
 
Check your carb. to manifold gasket for cut out slots at 4? spots.
This allows vacuum to get to the vacuum hole at the base of the carb.
 
BILL is the MAN!

You have those little tunnel ports on the bottom too and one or the other might be plugged with dirt or gasket seal or some such.
 
Here's what I've got. First, the rotor does advance on the distributor if I create vacuum. Second, air flows freely through the line when blown. Third, removing the vacuum line at the carb and the spark control valve don't create any changes when running. I checked the surface and both the carb and spacer seem clean of any obstructions. I am using a gasket with 4 holes so that is right as well. All of the cylinders are working.

Thanks guys!
 
Sounds like a check ball is in the wrong port???
 
Finally got it, wasn't a check ball but looked like some carbon build up. Exhaust was leaking and it was most likely picking it up. Just trying to get the idle squared away now. Thank you guys!
 
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