200 ci Cross Country build plan so far.

6

66XCountryStang

New member
Hey all, I hope this post is in the right place! I am looking for advice for parts and any advice of where to focus on my '66 Mustang build. I'm more of a bolt together type of person and not experienced in building up a car, so if you see anything that you think should be in a different section, let me know.

Starting Vehicle:
1966 Ford Mustang with the 200ci Inline 6. 2.77 transmission mated to a 7.25" with 3.20 gears.

Goals for the build:
A solid, smooth, naturally aspirated, reliable car with decent handling and power to use to travel across the U.S. It should get decent mileage, around 25 mpg or more on the highway. 91-92 octane AKI is the highest I should go.

Getting It Rolling:
  • Wilwood disc brakes on the front and rear.
    Replace brake lines (49 years old)
    Convert to power brakes.
    Replace as many rubber bushings as I can for cheap.
    Bolt up refinished steel wheels.

Body Work and Paint:
  • Replace passenger floor pan. (Yabba Dabba Doo)
    Weld in patch panels where applicable.
    Sand panels and DIY temporary Rustoleum paint job.
    Debate whether to use the old seats and belts.

Resuscitation, or Moving Under Own Power (Replace as necessary):
  • Rebuild the stock carburetor and new air filter.
    Spark plugs and wires, check stock distributor.
    New timing chain. Where to buy?
    Fill everything with correct fluids and clean out gas tank (was emptied before sitting).
    New battery, and test to see if it fires up.
    New carpet, soundproofing, seats and seat belts, among other interior upgrades.
    Pray clutch and flywheel are okay, or T-5 swap will move up the list.

Cheapest Power Money Can Buy:
  • New exhaust headers and full system (Need help with selection).
    Distributor upgrade. (Need help with selection)
    Alternator upgrade. (Need help with selection/where to find)
    Electric fan to replace engine driven.
    Upgrade radiator for better cooling.

Making Like New:
  • Rebuild short block. Will need help with options, things to look for, and where to find the kits.
    T-5 transmission conversion. Where to find bolt-on parts?

Let's Get Serious:
  • Camshaft from Clay Smith Cams (H-264-12-B)
    Classic Inlines Aluminum Head and Intake Manifold (Options listed down below)
    Option A: EZ-EFI or the like. Self-tuning and through.
    Option B: 4 barrel carburetor. Harder to tune without expert help, and I won't know which to choose.

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Classic Inlines Aluminum Head Options:
  • Head Gasket: Felpro .050, should be around .035" thick when installed
    Spring Choice: Dual Springs. I probably will need them over the single with planned changes with larger cam and 1.6 rocker arms.
    ARP Stud Kit: Kit "A"?
    Adaptor Type: I think I would need a 4V plate for the EZ-EFI, and definitely for the carb.
    Carb Choice: N/A; Going with EZ-EFI right now.
    Port Work: Not sure what each option means in terms of performance gains. I can't mill the head or deck myself, but I think I can manage to port and polish the ports and combustion chamber. Can the head be used without any option selected to save initial cost? I can either take it to a machine shop, or ask some family to help me out with it if I don't feel confident.

Using the formula in the Falcon Performance Handbook: Editing this section, changing head gasket volume to 7 from 6.
  • Compression Ratio with CI head options above, stock dished pistons, no machining (if 56 is right for the cc of the CI head): (550+6+7+56+7)/(6+7+56+7)=8.24
    Zeroing the deck and switching to flat top pistons: (550+0+7+56+0)/(0+7+56+0)=9.73
    Zeroing the deck only: (550+0+7+56+7)/(0+7+56+7)=8.86
    Flat top pistons only: (550+6+7+56+0)/(6+7+56+0)=8.97


Questions:
What compression ratio should I shoot for? I'm willing to go up to 92 octane in AKI.

The CSC site says the range of the cam is 2000-5700 rpm. Does that mean idle is at 2000? If so, what would you recommend for the camshaft?

In the event the stock 7.25" dies, my options seem to be either the cheap but hard option of getting an 8" 4-lug Maverick diff and hoping for the best, switching to a V8 rear end and 5 lug wheels, or switch to a V8 rear end but find someone to fabricate 4 lug axles? I know a fellow forum member had some luck with Currie Enterprises.

I think that is everything! Let me know what you think and where I can improve!
 
You should plan on upgrading the front spindles to V8 parts.
And you may as well expect that when you need a new rearend you will have better luck finding a 5 bolt 8" or using 2 short side axles and building your own 8.8 rearend.

according to other posts on this forum, the timing chains are all the same, buy from local store

If you are rebuilding the original carburetor it should be 1bbl with a Spark Control Valve (SCV), and it can only be used with a stock distributor a Load O'Matic (LOM)
If both are in good condition, keep both.

If you are upgrading to a newer carburetor OR EFI, you will want to at minimum move to t a 1968 or newer points style (with or without a Petronix module to replace the points)
Or a Duraspark II (easily obtained from a wrecking yard or parts store).
If you want to get really crazy, there are instructions on this site on using a drive unit out of a 2.3L i4 and building your own ignition system using stock Ford EDIS.

If you have a 2.77 bellhousing and your clutch checks out, be certain that the adapter kit you buy is the right one, most v8 cars use one for a 3.03.

There are plenty of threads on this site, and posts on the web for installing a 3g alternator.

You should install 3pt seatbelts
I'd recommend high back seats, even though my '68 doesn't have them...
I'd recommend a rear seat divider
I'd recommend both an export and monte carlo brace.

And a must for cross country driving,
A good radio and new speakers, I just replaced my rear aftermarket 6.5" speakers and installed a pair of 3.5" speakers in the front and it makes a world of difference.
Before undercoating and sound proofing you should weld in a set of subframe connectors
You should really consider a steering upgrade, in '66 the steering column was a single solid shaft from the steering wheel all the way down to the steering box (non collapsible) and is referred to as the 'Spear of death', in a frontal impact with only lap belts, you can imagine that it is a bad deal.
 
CoupeBoy":2p9jeuqa said:
You should plan on upgrading the front spindles to V8 parts.
Click to expand...
Would it be alright to run the 4 lug discs until I see larger power gains, or should I go for the full swap, fronts and rears? I know what can happen with the stock spindles, but I'd like to keep the stock wheels for as long as I can get away with it. What causes the front spindles to fail anyways? Just hard driving? Is there a way to change to stronger spindles while keeping the 4 lug brakes?

Reason I ask is to save some money in the long run. I heard another other option for 4 lug discs is to go the Scarebird route for cheap, so I can still drive it without buying performance parts for now.

CoupeBoy":2p9jeuqa said:
You should install 3pt seatbelts
I'd recommend high back seats, even though my '68 doesn't have them...
I'd recommend a rear seat divider
I'd recommend both an export and monte carlo brace.

And a must for cross country driving,
A good radio and new speakers, I just replaced my rear aftermarket 6.5" speakers and installed a pair of 3.5" speakers in the front and it makes a world of difference.
Before undercoating and sound proofing you should weld in a set of subframe connectors
You should really consider a steering upgrade, in '66 the steering column was a single solid shaft from the steering wheel all the way down to the steering box (non collapsible) and is referred to as the 'Spear of death', in a frontal impact with only lap belts, you can imagine that it is a bad deal.
Click to expand...
Looking at seats and 3 point seat belts right now. Is it possible to mount the one end of the belt higher up on the head liner for a 1966? Just worried about the geometry of it when seeing how tall and how much bolstering there is in some replacement seats. They may require something to guide the belt to the shoulder. Are there any seats you'd recommend, whether it be from late model Mustangs or certain brands/styles?

Oddly enough, I think we got the Mustang with an export brace already on there. I though it was stock.

Definitely thinking of stiffening the body; it slipped my mind. And a good stereo will go in as well, with a couple speakers and a smaller sub-woofer.

What would I look for to change the steering from being able to impale me? A two piece shaft or tilt steering?
 
HOwdy:

What a great adventure. You've got my creative juices flowing. But, tell us more. Where are you starting from and where will you finish? Have you checked out route 50? Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
CZLN6":2qf1nt0v said:
HOwdy:

What a great adventure. You've got my creative juices flowing. But, tell us more. Where are you starting from and where will you finish? Have you checked out route 50? Keep it coming.

Adios, David
Click to expand...
For the route? Not sure on road trip plans just yet, though I know whichever one I take will be the long way.
 
66XCountryStang":3oyv2n69 said:
Would it be alright to run the 4 lug discs until I see larger power gains
Click to expand...
You could run 4 lug wheels forever if you wanted to, when you want to stop quicker, install larger brakes on the 4 lug rotors, I think you should be able to find larger 4 lug rims.. but not as easily as 5 lug.
66XCountryStang":3oyv2n69 said:
or should I go for the full swap, fronts and rears? I know what can happen with the stock spindles, but I'd like to keep the stock wheels for as long as I can get away with it. What causes the front spindles to fail anyways? Just hard driving? Is there a way to change to stronger spindles while keeping the 4 lug brakes?
Click to expand...
4 lug, 5 lug, doesn't matter to me.. I suggested 5 lug because you will find a lot more replacement rear axles with 5 lug compared to 4 lug. As for stronger spindles, 1967 Mustangs used the same spindles for i6 and v8 and will have almost the same steering geometry as your '66 (there are slight differences).

If you aren't stuck on the big name brand calipers, check out
Classic Service Restoration Parts
The guy who owns/runs it used to be on here as "degins".
You could buy a kit from him, and then have the rotor/hub redrilled for the proper 4 lug pattern. (its been done before, you'll be fine)
66XCountryStang":3oyv2n69 said:
Reason I ask is to save some money in the long run. I heard another other option for 4 lug discs is to go the Scarebird route for cheap, so I can still drive it without buying performance parts for now.
Click to expand...

FWIW,
Scarebird 4 lug kit for Mustangs and Falcons $295 (plus other fees, this is brake parts only, you still need to figure out power assist)
CSRP SWAP.2.4/PBU/MT $789 + S&H (more costly, but includes everything including: spindles, outer tie rods, proportioning valve and brake pedal)
66XCountryStang":3oyv2n69 said:
Looking at seats and 3 point seat belts right now. Is it possible to mount the one end of the belt higher up on the head liner for a 1966?
Click to expand...
Yes.
Installing 3 Point Seat Belts in a 65 Fastback
66XCountryStang":3oyv2n69 said:
Just worried about the geometry of it when seeing how tall and how much bolstering there is in some replacement seats. They may require something to guide the belt to the shoulder. Are there any seats you'd recommend, whether it be from late model Mustangs or certain brands/styles?
Click to expand...
I try to avoid making recommendations for personal items, and how a seat fits your butt is about as personal as it gets :rolflmao: ...however for my next Mustang ('67 coupe) I am leaning toward Fox or SN95 Mustang seats and then recover them with a kit from TMI to retain the vintage look.

66XCountryStang":3oyv2n69 said:
Oddly enough, I think we got the Mustang with an export brace already on there. I though it was stock.

Definitely thinking of stiffening the body; it slipped my mind. And a good stereo will go in as well, with a couple speakers and a smaller sub-woofer.

What would I look for to change the steering from being able to impale me? A two piece shaft or tilt steering?
Click to expand...
Starting in '67 (late '67) all mustangs have a collapsible steering column that attaches to the steering box via a rag joint. If you are looking to keep as much stock appearance as possible I'd start there. The steering box will also have to be replaced, '67-70 (Mustang and Torino) are compatible. Just make certain to pick the ratio you want (16:1 vs 19:1) the lower the number, the bigger your arms need to be at low speeds.

and another FWIW...
I've made 2 round trips in my '68 Mustang coupe from Ft Collins, CO to Fargo, ND (1300 miles each way)
If at all possible, I'd recommend AC. Not necessary if you like SWACK (Sweaty Back) but I pulled into Bismarck ND on one trip it was 120°f outside and I was stuck in road construction (idling) for almost 2 hours with black interior, stock vinyl seats, no AC, and not enough water.

Last year my wife put 13,000 miles on my '68, and she's on track to do it again this year. I like to use as many 'generic' off the shelf parts as possible for easy replacement should anything break/fail.
My car is a factory AC car, but I've never gotten around to fixing/replacing the parts that were broken and/or missing when I bought it. My wife thinks its not necessary, she prefers window down and arm out. (y)
 
Does your master cylinder have one reservoir or two? If one I would start there and replace with two reservoir mc. And get a two piece or collapsible steering shaft. If the motor is sound it might be worth the effort to get a carb from a 250 and a junk yard DSII. Then a 95 amp alt and halogen headlights with a headlight relay wiring upgrade. All this would be relatively inexpensive and get you some performance and safety upgrades. A good base level so you can drive and gather parts for the next level.
 
With the aluminum head you should be able to run 10.5 compression & 185# cranking compression with the DS2 distributor setup for your combination.
You need to go with a 4bbl carb for top performance.
Be it a Holley,edelbrock or the summit copy of the autolite 4100 with annular discharge nozzles.
 
"Are there any seats you'd recommend, whether it be from late model Mustangs or certain brands/styles?"

I'm not sure if this would work in a Mustang, but I pulled a set of front seats out of a rather new (I'd say 2006) Hyundai Elantra and installed them in my Bronco with good results. They're comfortable and installation was simple (as was removal from the donor car). The sliding adjustment mechanism came along with the seats. I ended up straightening out some of the mounting brackets in order for them to install on the flat floor of my Bronco vs. the inclined floor stampings of the Elantra, but this was a 4 minute job with a hammer and dolly.
 
edgewood bronco":194buymp said:
"...any seats you'd recommend...?"

...a set of front seats out of a rather new (I'd say 2006) Hyundai Elantra and installed them in my Bronco with good results. They're comfortable and installation was simple (as was removal from the donor car). The sliding adjustment mechanism came along with the seats. I ended up straightening out some of the mounting brackets in order for them to install on the flat floor of my Bronco vs. the inclined floor stampings of the Elantra, but this was a 4 minute job with a hammer and dolly.
Click to expand...

How did you deal with the floor difference - pass. (hi) vs driver's (low) on the bronk?
Luv 2 C a pic...
Thanx-
 
again,
luv 2 C a pic.
I can imagine a rod-made (or angle iron) cube of sorts w/crosses on the diagonals for strength...

lots of us R curious about solutions (w/o raisin da floor on 1 side or thuhther).
(I don't know how long it will take me to put the aux tank in - gotta mig in the filler neck on the body panel/nothing there, rig up everything but) I DO wanna retain the 'high side' on the driver's side...
Imagine - even better - raise the pass. side & put the aux over there... .be able to "fill 'er up" from either side!
:eek:

Back to ur regularly scheduled program - sorry for the Jack :nono:
 
I'll give you my 2 cents here...

* Don't worry about rear disc brakes; they are a waist IMO. It's estimated that the front brakes due about 75% of the work so save your money for other upgrades. A good functioning set of drum brakes on the back will be fine. There are many options on the front disc and are a worthwhile upgrade. Make sure the master cylinder is changed to a dual reservoir.

* Before you dive into the carb make sure the distributor is all set up and functioning fine. Problems in the dizzy can act and feel like carb issues too. So get the dizzy correct first. There was a LOM in my car when I bought it and it ate points about every 100 miles. I switched to a Pertronix it never worried about points again. Later I bought a new dizzy from National Parts Depot and after fighting lots of drivability issues it was discovered that the Cardone-sourced dizzy was junk right out of the box! So if you do decide to swap dizzy beware of ANY parts store dizzy.

* Make sure a front suspension rebuild is in your early plans. There are lots of options from stock replacement to coilovers to welding in Mustang II suspension, but at a minimum upgrade strut rods, spring perches and idler arm to rollerized. I also put a 16:1 steering box in my car and hated it. It wasn't bad "at speed" but turning parking spots was a pain. If you go manual steering stay with the stock 19:1 ratio.
 
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