66XCountryStang
New member
Hey all, I hope this post is in the right place! I am looking for advice for parts and any advice of where to focus on my '66 Mustang build. I'm more of a bolt together type of person and not experienced in building up a car, so if you see anything that you think should be in a different section, let me know.
Starting Vehicle:
1966 Ford Mustang with the 200ci Inline 6. 2.77 transmission mated to a 7.25" with 3.20 gears.
Goals for the build:
A solid, smooth, naturally aspirated, reliable car with decent handling and power to use to travel across the U.S. It should get decent mileage, around 25 mpg or more on the highway. 91-92 octane AKI is the highest I should go.
Getting It Rolling:
Body Work and Paint:
Resuscitation, or Moving Under Own Power (Replace as necessary):
Cheapest Power Money Can Buy:
Making Like New:
Let's Get Serious:
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Classic Inlines Aluminum Head Options:
Using the formula in the Falcon Performance Handbook: Editing this section, changing head gasket volume to 7 from 6.
Questions:
What compression ratio should I shoot for? I'm willing to go up to 92 octane in AKI.
The CSC site says the range of the cam is 2000-5700 rpm. Does that mean idle is at 2000? If so, what would you recommend for the camshaft?
In the event the stock 7.25" dies, my options seem to be either the cheap but hard option of getting an 8" 4-lug Maverick diff and hoping for the best, switching to a V8 rear end and 5 lug wheels, or switch to a V8 rear end but find someone to fabricate 4 lug axles? I know a fellow forum member had some luck with Currie Enterprises.
I think that is everything! Let me know what you think and where I can improve!
Starting Vehicle:
1966 Ford Mustang with the 200ci Inline 6. 2.77 transmission mated to a 7.25" with 3.20 gears.
Goals for the build:
A solid, smooth, naturally aspirated, reliable car with decent handling and power to use to travel across the U.S. It should get decent mileage, around 25 mpg or more on the highway. 91-92 octane AKI is the highest I should go.
Getting It Rolling:
- Wilwood disc brakes on the front and rear.
Replace brake lines (49 years old)
Convert to power brakes.
Replace as many rubber bushings as I can for cheap.
Bolt up refinished steel wheels.
Body Work and Paint:
- Replace passenger floor pan. (Yabba Dabba Doo)
Weld in patch panels where applicable.
Sand panels and DIY temporary Rustoleum paint job.
Debate whether to use the old seats and belts.
Resuscitation, or Moving Under Own Power (Replace as necessary):
- Rebuild the stock carburetor and new air filter.
Spark plugs and wires, check stock distributor.
New timing chain. Where to buy?
Fill everything with correct fluids and clean out gas tank (was emptied before sitting).
New battery, and test to see if it fires up.
New carpet, soundproofing, seats and seat belts, among other interior upgrades.
Pray clutch and flywheel are okay, or T-5 swap will move up the list.
Cheapest Power Money Can Buy:
- New exhaust headers and full system (Need help with selection).
Distributor upgrade. (Need help with selection)
Alternator upgrade. (Need help with selection/where to find)
Electric fan to replace engine driven.
Upgrade radiator for better cooling.
Making Like New:
- Rebuild short block. Will need help with options, things to look for, and where to find the kits.
T-5 transmission conversion. Where to find bolt-on parts?
Let's Get Serious:
- Camshaft from Clay Smith Cams (H-264-12-B)
Classic Inlines Aluminum Head and Intake Manifold (Options listed down below)
Option A: EZ-EFI or the like. Self-tuning and through.
Option B: 4 barrel carburetor. Harder to tune without expert help, and I won't know which to choose.
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Classic Inlines Aluminum Head Options:
- Head Gasket: Felpro .050, should be around .035" thick when installed
Spring Choice: Dual Springs. I probably will need them over the single with planned changes with larger cam and 1.6 rocker arms.
ARP Stud Kit: Kit "A"?
Adaptor Type: I think I would need a 4V plate for the EZ-EFI, and definitely for the carb.
Carb Choice: N/A; Going with EZ-EFI right now.
Port Work: Not sure what each option means in terms of performance gains. I can't mill the head or deck myself, but I think I can manage to port and polish the ports and combustion chamber. Can the head be used without any option selected to save initial cost? I can either take it to a machine shop, or ask some family to help me out with it if I don't feel confident.
Using the formula in the Falcon Performance Handbook: Editing this section, changing head gasket volume to 7 from 6.
- Compression Ratio with CI head options above, stock dished pistons, no machining (if 56 is right for the cc of the CI head): (550+6+7+56+7)/(6+7+56+7)=8.24
Zeroing the deck and switching to flat top pistons: (550+0+7+56+0)/(0+7+56+0)=9.73
Zeroing the deck only: (550+0+7+56+7)/(0+7+56+7)=8.86
Flat top pistons only: (550+6+7+56+0)/(6+7+56+0)=8.97
Questions:
What compression ratio should I shoot for? I'm willing to go up to 92 octane in AKI.
The CSC site says the range of the cam is 2000-5700 rpm. Does that mean idle is at 2000? If so, what would you recommend for the camshaft?
In the event the stock 7.25" dies, my options seem to be either the cheap but hard option of getting an 8" 4-lug Maverick diff and hoping for the best, switching to a V8 rear end and 5 lug wheels, or switch to a V8 rear end but find someone to fabricate 4 lug axles? I know a fellow forum member had some luck with Currie Enterprises.
I think that is everything! Let me know what you think and where I can improve!