removing 200 camshaft

xrwagon

Well-known member
Hi all, i am doing the new cam install, removed everything from front of motor, cam has come out like the width of the front of it so bit more than an inch, thats as far as i can get it out, any tricks, one bloke on my FB page suggested maybe a lip on the cam bearing. Alls been removed, no lifters, dissy or oil pump drive etc, timing set cam off easy enough, very slack in the chain, not sure of age or mileage on it. I used the t/s bolt and tried gripping that with various means to removed the cam carefully forward, even put my little balancer puller centre on and she won’t budge.
 
ok cam is out, rotating the crank helped, has some numbers stamped into it, not sure what the stock numbers are, i would like to identify what they may be for interests sake as engine is a widely unknown rebuild at some stage.
 
You shouldn't have any problems, but do check the new cam agaist the old one. They are stamped 6250, the basic part number.That does mean its a 6 cylinder 250 cam... :mrgreen:

Yours would have been a 252 degree at lash item as per the 1965 change over. They changed the cam shape to make clearance for the close range 3.126" stroke crank....it gets so darn close to the conrod it just not funny.
This was done in mid 1963, before 200 came out in 1964.

Some overseas cams cores don't fit because they are machined for 144, 170, or 188's. The 250's have the same problem, cam is very close to the rods.

When the cam is cast wrongly, it can hit the conrod weights, and advancing or retarding options are limited. It happened to Jackfish a few years ago. The reason the short deck 200's, and tall deck 250's sh!+ themselves when a rod bolt goes is that there is so little clearance between the conrods and camshaft....they become interferance engines.

Here is JackFish's cam which hit the rods, purely becasue the cam grind master wasn't indexed or machined correctly at birth. viewtopic.php?t=65908

JackFish":17j2xsgc said:
Putting the engine back together and advanced the camshaft 4°.
Turned the engine over with a wrench and found number 3 and 4 rods were coming into contact with the cam and blocking rotation. :x
I just came back from trying 2° advanced and they are just barely missing each other. Too close for comfort. :cry:

So was my camshaft not properly relieved?
There flat sides that correspond to the rod rotation.
I'll post a pic if I can get a good one.

clunk01.jpg

Stock cam:
stockrelief01.jpg


Clay Smith:
4relief01.jpg


The worst for it are the X-flow blocks around the 1985 era, where the combination of cam grinding, crank grinding and conrod castings were all pretty poor, and there were a whole bunch of new low tension piston rings, piston and chamber cc', and different heads and intakes and distributers. When detonation set in, they could take a big cr@p when a typically marginal strength Ford conrod bolt loosened up under detonation. I pulled apart a 7:1 compression Fairlane AIT Turbo engine which had a rod through the cam...it is sadly typical of the low compression XF engies that have had earlier high compression XE or XF parts swapped in. Leaded fuel engines that have low duration 256 degree cams, the XF's had a range of cams, compressions and management systems, and the wrong bits could total them. The right rod bolts, a mild clean up and de-dg of flash, and the right clearances and piston ring types, and any 200 or 250 is a standout engine which won't give you any trouble.
 
thanks for reply mate, i honestly had no idea how close everything is, my cam is a Clive Cams one, he has a lot of masters and also the Wade cams ones. Hope for no issues, mines ground on 110 so might advance it 4 degrees to 106, but I’m letting an expert degree the cam in for me. I have a Loctite product for the lobes, but may go on the engine builder gurus recommendations for cam lube and break in. Being a solid flat tappet jigger and all, hoping to have installled this week then i can put everything back together, set tappets and check for pushrod length.
 
Ive just realised the old cam i pulled out has exact same marks on it as the above pics.
 
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