Harmonic balancer

I put my balancer back on, it went on with the bolt nicely, as it tightened up I started thinking about torquing it up when I realised it had already gone back all the way and was just touching the front oil pan rail, what have I done wrong? It's a two rib pulley on a 200

Can you post a pic?

This is what my 200 looked like last year when I put my new balancer on.

http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r67 ... 1034017602

I made a makeshift installer with a long bolt, nut, and a couple washers. Might have used a short section of pipe too. I don't remember for sure. Was too afraid of stripping out the threads on the crank.

I have a Rollaster double row timing set, for the balancer to be hard up against the crank it's to far back, looks like I need a spacer behind it, different sized sprocket on crank

Wow that's an odd problem to have! Have you measured the difference in the thickness of the two timing chain crank gears? I.E. The difference in thickness of the old crank gear verses the new Rollaster crank gear. Good luck

This has been noted before. The diameter is very slightly different to the US ones too. Its designed for the Aussie tall deck 8.425" 188/221 and 9.38" 200 and 250's. The front of the crank of the US small 144/170/200, when its all put on, puts it hard against the timing cover. I'm not sure if its production tollerances or what.

Verify dimesions on site before construction...

I rang Rollmaster, bloke was helpful this time around, not like last time when they stuffed up the chain, he fixed that to. The old sprocket was 17mm, the new one is 17.8, so bugger all difference, i pulled the balancer off, checked everything again, i started thinking the crank hole must be nearly frigged out so put some paste on the bolt and did it right up, that cleaned out the thread a bit and made the hole tighter, when i re installed the balancer it went on much better, bolt was true and and was nice and tight from the get go, i could only torque it up to 70 odd pounds, had all the front of motor off twice due to incorrect water pump bolt, water leaked as it was to lone and bottomed out, but fixed it all, started her up, 3rd go on the key and the solid cammed motor was running, idled it up to what seemed like 2000 rpm or a little more (don’t have a tacho yet) and run it in for 20 minutes, used Penrite running in oil with a bottle of additive as well for increased protection. Gee it ran smooth, sound great, let to cool down while i attended to the other daily chores, hooked up the accelerator tonight and went for a drive, its a great combo now, no high revs yet, have a couple of hours of running around first, then drop the oil out and do the timing, it all seems to be in the sweet spot, I’m still a bit miffed by the balancer, i was measuring it up for a spacer when i decided to have another go at it. The old stock cam and badly worn chain made the wagon sound like it had a mild hyd cam, timing was way off, so rough running was the order of the day, add in the improved breathing of the 2V head and low compression with the big manifold etc made for a pain in the but set up. Now the comp is 9.8.1, has a awesome set of springs and the baby solid cam, 2” spacer for the Holley, its much better matched up. Thanks for advice guys, much appreciated.

Fantastic, sounds like ur gettin there.

Congrata! & thanks for bringin us along...


Off to the races again this year? When's that?

Racing all weekend, we have the Warwick 1/8th mile bracket racing event, then Sat night there is a 6-0 Grudge match’s, no lights Outlaw style and then Sunday is The Six Banger Nats, I’m keen as. Last year i got my wagon running the day before and drove out that night, this year i have another 3 days up my sleeve. Ive had a bit of help and local blokes and business’s have helped me out, to which i am forever grateful. These motors sound good with Solid Cams in them.

W/that schedule I'm assuming U got tuned up just in time for the start of the season...
Good luck again this yr, we want another trophy for 'our brand'!

Keep us posted Bro.

Checking the timing today but its fairly spot on, I’ve won my class before at Six Bangers, Stick Shift in 2013, my first drag meet in the old girl. It didn’t go to badly as a single carb log 200, my first ever pass was 13.4 for the 1/8th, street trim as driven through the gate, i got down to 12.8 that meet, dropping the pipe and putting smaller diameter tyres on, it ended up going 11.74 with no short motor mods or carb, that was just a pipe mod, the DUI dissy and the steel shim head gasket, head had a clean up under the valves and that was it. I think i spent $350 all up. Brought the Calvert 90/10 shocks in 2014. When i did put the 2V head on and Holley it only marginally went quicker, 11.66, not much difference, could have gone quicker with the log motor. To low comp and the worn timing chain etc was really holding it back. She’s woken up a bit now. There will be quite a few Fords there, some of my mates are running very strong crossflow motors, turbo FG Barra motors, Blown Crossflows, Turbo Crossflows, not sure on the log or 2V motors, but i will get some pics.

well bad news, balancer has the major wobbles, barely got home from driving it today, i now how to get it off but are there any tips for putting it back on, i got the old one torqued up to 75 foot pound, a hammer never went anywhere near it, no big revs as I’m still running in the solids, i just used the bolt to locate and tighten it up as it slid on the crank.

The Australians changed the harmonic balancer so it came out more on the taller engines. Stones, oil film, bulldust get flicked out.

You don't lubricate the bolts as much on harmonic balancers as ya did. The idea is to just lightly lubricate the thread so the balancer meets the torque requirments. I use my wifes dental floss to clean the threads after oiling, and make sure its dry. What has happened is you've most likely over torque'd it some, and made the bolt yield more than it should. See http://classicinlines.com/SmallSixSpecs.asp, should be 90 lb-ft, but dude, its measured nearly dry. A wt 70 is most likely a streatched to yield bolt, and its a gonner. Get a new bolt, shove the balancer back on, and your good to go.


Found a SCR 3 leg bolt puller with 3-1/2 to 3-3/4" (89 to 95 mm) centre spacing will take the sucker off EASIEST.
or a "13PC HARMONIC BALANCER KIT GEAR PULLEY PULLER STEERING WHEEL CRANKSHAFT TOOLS"

Modern balancers give me the screaming State Highway 1 Tees, but you can get a flat piece of steel cut up to the puller bolt spacings(9/16" head bolts like used on the bellhousing and exhaust header through bolts do the trick), with a hole for the socket to go through.

Had to do that many times with TojoMoter S, C and G series engines

viewtopic.php?f=34&t=73158

xctasy":1boc0fmq said:

Dean, FWD cars are a pain in the ass to work on them.
Unless its an easy job i pass the hardcore jobs to an other shop.
FWD is superior in the Snow, but otherwise suck.

Click to expand...

Ugh-ha. I used to think that too, but here, even in the dry, I tried without success driving up a 12% incline in the dry and wet in my bosses 2003 Camry 2.4. Couldn't go up hills that steep. In ice, it was worse than usless getting up a hardpacked ice track to my old home, 8% gradioent. Same with the 1996 Ford Taurus.

All my Falcons, Toyota SR5 2wd's, Mustang, the 82 rear drive RT131 Corona, the 84 ST165 front drive Corona and E37 88 Mitsubishi Galant, all my front drive Corollas, no problems.

On a wet or dry boat ramp, a front drive Toyota or Ford is also a beached gargoyle. Or like that self amputating Oarfish that washed up on the beach down here yesterday.


http://www.stuff.co.nz/environment/6782 ... in-dunedin



In addition, you THEN have to deal with the Swiss Watch approach, service technicans become jewlers...or keyhole surgeons


This service tool was a real pest to fit. I made the last one too thick, and it wouldn't fit. The 40 thou thick one is just right...

Click to expand...

"13PC HARMONIC BALANCER KIT GEAR PULLEY PULLER STEERING WHEEL CRANKSHAFT TOOLS"



on http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/harmonic-balancer-puller

or the make-sure-it-HoldsOn version

http://autofix.com.au/blog/wp-content/u ... -place.jpg

I prefer the balancer kit rather than the gear puller. Could separate the balancer wth the puller setup

Yup, its nasty. It also takes up a heap of space. People do have radiators, ya know!

New balancer is on, ouch, very ouch, expensive sucker, then she started running rough, found a couple small issues, dropped the thin running in oil out and changed that to the new stuff, new oil fillter. I went for a test drive, was a smoother now, got out on a country road revved her up and took off like a scalded cat, wheel spinning my big street tyres something quite badly, there 255/60/15’s on 15x8’s, i wasn’t expecting that, i race on little 14” stockers with 185/70/14’s, as it gears it up for the 1/8th mile racing, will have to change my launch now or run the big ones.

Hang on. Was it a stock balancer? Waht balancer you using?


The stock ones, even rebound, are just no good for an engine with a short rod to stroke ratio. It doesn't matter that a 200 is a short stroke engine, the earlier ones are have a 1.5:1 ratio (4.715" center to center rod/3.126" stroke).

Same as the 250 (5.88" center to center rod/3.91" stroke = 1.5:1). It doesn't even matter that the 250 is a long stroke engine, they both shake a lot more than the 6.27" long rod 1971-1992 3.3 liter log/x-flow/OHC's. Rod ratio 6.27"/3.126" = 2.01:1. = Smooth.


The later balancers (Romac, PowerBound, Fluidamper) suck out heat after just a little operation, but sit out another 5 mm or so.


How waz the bolt Azza?

Anyway, just to help out. Plenty here run the stock blancer to high heaven without too much bother. Though do wonder is piston skirt breakeage is related to the blancer, rather than the skirts...

Its a Powerbond one, was cross referenced by my motor guys shop before purchasing, its an OEM style, single rib, the bolt couldn’t be replaced, bolt hole is probably on the verge of being flogged out i reckon, this balancer does stick the 5mm further out, i got it torqued to 100 pounds. I raced it all weekend, did 15 runs, it never spat a belt or anything, but vibration is somewhere towards front of car, i also drove the 80 minutes to the track there and back, ran 11.1 on the 1/8th mile by the way. Roll master bloke Stan who does Romac was telling me my 200 being a 68 was made in Canada, could be sutble differences, did Australia ever cast there own 200’s?

"...rove the 80 minutes to the track there and back, ran 11.1 on the 1/8th mile..."
now THAT sounds like fun! Keep er up!




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-q45n19XLM
very cool vid worth the 1/2 hr! Thanks, only thing is - seemed like they were all drivin on da wrong side!