DSii Wiring questions diagram ds2

hello,

im switching over to the ds2 with stock fairmont ignition module.

The classic inlines install didn't have a good color diagram.

ds2 has orange purple and black.

module has green purple orange black

and red and white

where do they go? I guess orange puprle and black hook up and the green has no connection? maybe for the tach right? (dont have one)

and the red and white? maybe to the coil or starter solenoid?

Check this link at the bottom of the page you will see a DSII wiring diagram. Good luck

http://handymandanonline.com/ford_duraspark_2.html

Okay I went with the gm module instead. Is it okay to solder the wires onto this?

Yes you could do that but, I would just use some crip on connectors (soldered onto your wires) that fit the mod. terminals then when you need to replace the mod it will be easy to do.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/131 ... to-gm-hei/

here is a link to the gm module i am working with.

so orange to the W and voilet to Q(says reverse those if it runs poorly)
C to negative and B to ignition start position

Solenoid S terminal to start ignition and the I terminal says to remove the brown wire,

Is the I terminal on solenoid empty with this module?

and can I stack the B wire S on solenoid wire and ignition start wire all on the COil + with connectors or tap into the wire?

Says check for 12v at coil + and I terminal? Not used right?

and this is higher voltage than a pertronix right so it gets for 12v to the coil and ignition wire no resistance .

Yes you will need to run a new wire from ignition switch to replace the unhooked or bypassed (Pink) resistance wire so that you do have a full 12 volts to coil and also to the B pin of the GM module. No don't try to stack the B to the solenoid S termanel the wire stays hooked up the same way it is now from the start position of the ign. switch. Good luck

Okay thanks and last one is the I terminal on the solenoid that is now empty correct?

Ok so here you go step by step details for the DSII distributor wiring hookup when using a GM HEI Module for the trigger.
1. The Orange wire goes to the module pin W.
2. The Purple wire goes to the module pin G.
3. The Black wire goes to one of the modules mounting screws to ground it, is a good idea to also run another wire to ground the module to the body or the chassis. The Module must be grounded properly to work.
4. From the ignition switch a new wire to by passing the old resistor wire (Pink). This is so that with the ignition switch when in the run position is supplying a full 12 volts to the + (Positive) terminal of the coil.
5. From the coil + terminal also run a new wire to the B pin on the module.
6. From the C pin on the module run a new wire to the - (Negative) terminal of the coil.
7. If you have a Tach hook it up to the - terminal on the coil.
8. Unhook the Brown wire from the I terminal of the starter solenoid and tape the wire end.
9. Check on the back of the GM Module there are two pins that will need to be removed or filed down so it will set flat and transfer heat. Make or buy an Alum. Heat sink min. of 3/16 inch, thicker is better. Apply the special grease to the back of the GM Module, you can also use a good Computer Heat Sink grease if you want. Mount the heat sink were it will be or stay cool the cooler it stays the longer it will last.
10 Optional wiring you can use a relay and wire direct from the battery or from the starter solenoid (battery cable side) to the relay.
11. The output of the relay will supply full power to the HEI Moduel B pin and + (Positive) of the coil terminal.
12. You then can use the existing ignition wire (Pink) to operate the relay (to trigger it).
13. All the rest of the wiring routing is the same as above. Good luck

The GM module is the easiest way to make a DSII work but it needs a good heat sink. Go to Amazon or ebay and get a GM heat sink under ACDelco part number 10474610. They look good, don't cost much, and are very effective.

okay got it to fire.

I still have the I terminal hooked up so I will disconnect that.

says try to switch the orange and violet wire if it runs poor.

I have it at about 16 to 18 degrees initial. vaccum advance is now hooked up.

set the choke, idle and fast idle.

had it running about five minutes and its warm but having idle issues now.

wont hold an idle to well .

I may try to reverse the orange and violet or does it sound like it needs a new custom curved DS2?

Vaccum was really low also like 14 to 16Hg

Yes more then likely the DSII will need to have a custom curve for your engine combo to reach its full potential, but first off is your distributor in good condition? I.e. The shaft bushings are not worn excessively and other parts are good usable condition. I have not heard of switching the wires but then that article was a bit generic to cover basics of using an HEI Moduel with many other brands of Electronic Distributors, the above posted step by step instructions are specific to a DSII used with an HEI mod. It's hard to help you diagnose what your problem may be without all the details of your combo of parts as well as seeing it run or atleast a video. Before assuming that it's related to the distributor are you certain that the carb is setup and adjusted properly? Did it run good before you did the DSII swap? Good luck

did one more test and seemed to get better vacuum in the 20 range.

still having trouble with acceleration slight stumbles after acceleration but acceleration is clean. mostly once the second venturi kicks in on the 2305 it pops then dies.

I might have the vacuum lines switched around on the vacuum advance. not sure which one is which on this model 4412

its a new combo so its a orielley ds2 and this is the first time trying the mechanical secondary 2305 holley. its getting closer but still not tuned.

it is running on the hotter side too.

its a 200 with a howard cam 263 236 .420 lift on a 108 lsa says 1200-4800 rpms range.

could some of the cam its supposed to be a low end torque cam.

I need to take a new video.

Im going to let it cool a couple hours and give it another shot with video and see what it does and post it.

should I try manifold vacuum on the advance?

still having a little trouble tunning the choke on warm up and fast idle kick down then initial timing setting is around 12 so i think manifold vacuum will give it enough advance at idle to smooth it out. it can help it run cooler too wired that way too I hope............still getting pretty hot just within a few minutes even with a fan and aluminum radiator. may need another fan.

any recommendations?

autoX65":1tsnzx3b said:

its a new combo so its a orielley ds2 and this is the first time trying the mechanical secondary 2305 holley. its getting closer but still not tuned.

it is running on the hotter side too.

its a 200 with a howard cam 263 236 .420 lift on a 108 lsa says 1200-4800 rpms range.

could some of the cam its supposed to be a low end torque cam.

I need to take a new video.

Im going to let it cool a couple hours and give it another shot with video and see what it does and post it.

Click to expand...

You need my distributor, the o'reillys ds2 is not curved for your application.
See the small six for sale section & look at my distributor. You backed out on the first deal, so maybe you learned what you need from a professional. Bill

I like the OEM Delco heat sink' Mustang Six posted, keeps it neat. Repurposed desktops' and other computer detritus often have a usable cooling platform for the GM HEI module.

A standard 4-pin trailer light connector is neat for easy DSII R&R. I tucked a spare module under the aluminum sink' - haven't needed it ...


.


have fun

even just a few minutes of running it starts to get hot and the radiator cap starts to steam and overflow goes . I think it needs more air and fan action but still seems to be getting on the hot side real fast.

autoX65":1e6ios78 said:

even just a few minutes of running it starts to get hot and the radiator cap starts to steam and overflow goes . I think it needs more air and fan action but still seems to be getting on the hot side real fast.

Click to expand...

.. are you confident the radiator is in good shape and coolant is circulating , does radiator get hot as engine ? .

With the DS-II conversion , recommendations to provide full 12V-B+ to coil along with HEI module needs clarification. The "Pink" resistance wire can/should be retained to the original external resistor coil and 12V to HEI OR a different aftermarket or later DS-II 12V coil type should be used.

have fun

I believe all the wiring is good and getting proper voltages.

the engine and radiator get to the same temp which ive run it for ten minutes and it wasnt too hot but once I shut it off it was boiling over.

Ill get some more reading temps.

and ten four wsa ill go with yours I have the info. just thought that this ds2 would work enough to get it tuned but its not..

wsa111":2z6i9tm4 said:

autoX65":2z6i9tm4 said:

its a new combo so its a orielley ds2 and this is the first time trying the mechanical secondary 2305 holley. its getting closer but still not tuned.

it is running on the hotter side too.

its a 200 with a howard cam 263 236 .420 lift on a 108 lsa says 1200-4800 rpms range.

could some of the cam its supposed to be a low end torque cam.

I need to take a new video.

Im going to let it cool a couple hours and give it another shot with video and see what it does and post it.

Click to expand...

You need my distributor, the o'reillys ds2 is not curved for your application.
See the small six for sale section & look at my distributor. You backed out on the first deal, so maybe you learned what you need from a professional. Bill

Click to expand...

it did have a backfire out of the secondary venturi when I tried to go into it so im sure thats timing related too the curve is just not coming in properly so far on acceleration. I set it back to 12 initial with out the vacuum advance hooked up so I was debating one more try from there with straight manifold vacuum would be the only other way but I dont want to ruin engine and set up because I think the heat is timing related too not being able to get a stable initial timing with the correct advance curve on the mechanical centrifugal advance either so the whole vacuum advance issue may help it this time or the timing curve will still be off so I plan to get the custom curved but does this sound correct or no way will this work with my setup?