Dan64Falcon
New member
When putting a DSII into a 170, I've read that you should go with a cooler plug due to the increased spark energy, and wider gap. How do you choose the correct plug? Are the diamond fire plugs a good choice?
Spark plugs with 170 and DSII
- Thread starter Dan64Falcon
- Start date
If the old plug insulator is not bone white what you have is fine.
Plug gap .040"-.048" is fine,
My choice of spark plug is NGK WR5IX 7510. It an Iridium electrode plug & performs great. But they are pricey.
The E type or diamond side electrode is all i use in my lawn mowers & 2 cycle engines.
How they perform in a car engine i have no idea. Bill
Plug gap .040"-.048" is fine,
My choice of spark plug is NGK WR5IX 7510. It an Iridium electrode plug & performs great. But they are pricey.
The E type or diamond side electrode is all i use in my lawn mowers & 2 cycle engines.
How they perform in a car engine i have no idea. Bill
Howdy Dan:
And welcome to The Forum. Yes, it is that good. It would be helpful If you would tell us more about your engine- year, mileage, trans, modifications, etc....
My suggestion is to start with what you have. If you got the whole DS II system, including distributor, plug wires module and wiring harness you are in good shape to start. Once you get the "new" ignition system in place and timed, drive it as you normally would then read your spark plugs. Carb rich/lean and engine condition will also effect plug reading. But, white and/or shiny= hot and/or lean, indicating a colder heat range spark plug is a good choice. Black, fuzzy, wet= rich and/or worn engine indicating a hotter heat range plug may or may not help depending.
To start, clean and re-gap your current plugs (what brand and heat range are you currently using?) as per wsa111s, make sure your choke is opening completely and as soon as possible then drive as you normally would with the engine at normal operating temp for at least 30 minutes. Stop and let the engine cool down for about 20 minutes. Then read you plugs.
I used what ever plugs I got on sale so long as the heat range was close. I changed to cooler plugs in the Idaho summer and hotter in the cooler winter = more choke, months, so price was a factor for me.
Again, Welcome and keep us posted on your progress.
Adios, David
And welcome to The Forum. Yes, it is that good. It would be helpful If you would tell us more about your engine- year, mileage, trans, modifications, etc....
My suggestion is to start with what you have. If you got the whole DS II system, including distributor, plug wires module and wiring harness you are in good shape to start. Once you get the "new" ignition system in place and timed, drive it as you normally would then read your spark plugs. Carb rich/lean and engine condition will also effect plug reading. But, white and/or shiny= hot and/or lean, indicating a colder heat range spark plug is a good choice. Black, fuzzy, wet= rich and/or worn engine indicating a hotter heat range plug may or may not help depending.
To start, clean and re-gap your current plugs (what brand and heat range are you currently using?) as per wsa111s, make sure your choke is opening completely and as soon as possible then drive as you normally would with the engine at normal operating temp for at least 30 minutes. Stop and let the engine cool down for about 20 minutes. Then read you plugs.
I used what ever plugs I got on sale so long as the heat range was close. I changed to cooler plugs in the Idaho summer and hotter in the cooler winter = more choke, months, so price was a factor for me.
Again, Welcome and keep us posted on your progress.
Adios, David
i agree, dont worry about heat range right now, you want to get the system up and running first. if you have detonation issues, then go to a colder plug.
as for the E3 plugs, i havent used them yet, but i am considering going with them when i am ready to change plugs again. the dyno results i have seen are promising.
as for the E3 plugs, i havent used them yet, but i am considering going with them when i am ready to change plugs again. the dyno results i have seen are promising.
Dan64Falcon
New member
This is a 1964 falcon 170 with about 65K miles, and the 2-speed auto transmission. As of now, everything is stock, however I'm planning ahead in order to install the DSII dizzy, and replacement carb to get away from the autolite/loadomatic combo that runs poorly even after replacing them both.
Dan64Falcon
New member
Oh, and all of the electrical and fuel parts have been replaced, so I think the issue must be vacuum related. That's why I want a dizzy with mechanical advance & electronic spark.
Howdy All:
The change to the larger diameter hole that the distributor fits in and the larger driveshaft happened at some point during the 1964 production year. I'm coming up blank on the diameter of the two holes, early and late. Anybody have that?
1bad6t make a good point Dan. You should verify which block you have before proceeding. Good Luck.
Adios, David
The change to the larger diameter hole that the distributor fits in and the larger driveshaft happened at some point during the 1964 production year. I'm coming up blank on the diameter of the two holes, early and late. Anybody have that?
1bad6t make a good point Dan. You should verify which block you have before proceeding. Good Luck.
Adios, David
There are several ways to fix the oil pump drive miss match. First you could swap in a later 200 oil pump that uses the 5/16 inch drive shaft. Another way is to use a custom drive shaft that has 1/4 inch on one end and 5/16 inch on the other, it can also be done using a combo of a hex drive socket on one end too. 
Dan64Falcon":6xim74gt said:
"Just sayin" Ever check the the block casting numbers? - behind the down tube on exhaust, passenger's side? Block may B from another vehicle (lots happens in all those yrs/owners). Head from another (ck that too if U wanna B positive).