Weber 32/36 DGEV Holley5200 models??

Will any Weber 32/36 or Holley 5200 work on my 200, or is there different model numbers? I am not a fan of $300-600 carbs, so if I can pick up one on ebay for less I would be a happy camper. I understand everything it takes to go from 1bbl to 2bbl, the question is in ref to different types of 32/36's and 5200's.

from an earlier opost:

The 5200 progressive can be a good match for the small block six:

... the progressive 2 barrel carbs' are the pricey Weber 32/36 and Holley/Weber version - H/W5200. The 5200 series progressive is widely available inexpensively having been used on many small 4cyl. engines 70's/80's. Most available "list numbers" or applications' jetting' are for small displacement four cyl's and a lower CFM than the small block six needs . THe 32/36 and 5200 are easily re-jetted though, and if you search here you will find a lot of discussion on getting them tuned for different engine configurations. I've run a H/W5200 from a Capri 2800cc (170cid) V6 application "list#" on a 170 through a simple $15 2X1 adapter for @ 10 years. It yields smooth idle and excellent performance and economy but it took two carbs and help to get there ...

here's more:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72880&p=560124&hilit=5200#p560124

have fun

Thanks for the reply.. the question is actually... will ANY 32/36 or 5200 work on my ride? It's not which one, it's more I see on ebay a 32/36 for a jeep or other type of vehicle.. should it work on a 67 poney?

67Poney":20axc42o said:

Thanks for the reply.. the question is actually... will ANY 32/36 or 5200 work on my ride? It's not which one, it's more I see on ebay a 32/36 for a jeep or other type of vehicle.. should it work on a 67 poney?

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Yes, any will work. Don't ever be afraid, be informed and have a little fun. Every problem has been dealt with by another American who has tried a carb swap with these excellent pieces of sometimes North Americanised Italian craftsmanship.

AMC/Chev/Ford/Mercury/Chrysler Corp, any of those Holley Webers from 1969 to 1983 had 52xx/62xx/65xx series carbs with over 34 part numbers is a candidate. Most people would be better off getting a non feedback carb and air cleaner off a pre 1976 Mustang II or Pinto. Chrysler products used it too on the 1700 cc VW Audi 4 cyl engines and the 2.2 Mopar 4 cylinder.

Any Weber 32/36 will be a good candidate, but are more expensive. The suppliers have dedicated kits for these, that's why they are more expensive. The guys here, championed by BIGREDRASA (welcome back!), cataloged all the info they could.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=49901&p=442592#p442592





For the cheapest, though, some 1979-1983 Holley Weber carbs are Ford MCU or Chrysler ELB or ALDL GM feedback items. People precieve them to have all the problems associated with adding all the 30 to 70 extra emissions parts. In fact, they are the easiest of the lot because of the forum expertise from Volkswagan and Fox Ford and Pinto groups, where they network like you wouldn't expect.

Miss a piece, and sure, a feedback Open and Closed loop or piezo electric electronic managed carb won't function the way it was intended. But those carbs are way cheaper and can be had for a knockdown price. The 1984 Impco Liquid Propane Gas Service Bulletins show you how to lock out the electronic solenoids and the Four Eye Pride forum gives you all the clues on what jetting, emulsion tube and air horn changes there were required on the non EFI carb turbo 2.3 Lima engines.

IMHO, they are the ultimate in cheap bolt ons since the turbo engine has the same power character as a warmed over 200. Not a savage, but in tandem with Duraspark Ignition and an adaptor or direct mount log, its the ultimate economy prospect. There are ways of locking off the emissions parts with non return valves, and three guys on that forum have made a birds nest zone into a clean machine with $15 NAPA Vehicle Emission Control and Information parts. They talk, and nothing realy fazes them. Pacecartodd and gr79 developed an 11 point prgram to make a 1979 2.3 turbo carb work without the emission equipment using the parts listed in the FAQ post in page 2.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... b%29/page2


See as well http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... -questions

Read all the Turbo 2.3 52XX and 6520 Holley Weber info. http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... nfo-needed


And http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... ning-issue

xctasy;1664907 said:

What code number is your carb?


Here is a Missing in Action Holley Weber 52xx to 65xx List and Makers PN from 1973 until Ford axed the carb in 1983 for the single barrel.

There is an on line list of the 19 (nineteen) Holley Weber carbs in the 445 carb list below,
http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/images/HolleyCarb.html

These are appended with the Dave Emanual even more extensive list of 8 (eight) other Holley Webers in Super Tuning and Modifying Holley Carburetors.

There are seven extras just from and afternoon of FEP internet trawling.

Every Holley Weber on the net seams to have a different list number and part number, which is probably as it should be, since the published Holley lists are for carb kits where as real Holley Webers in service are factory list carbs with a automakers unique production part number

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See as well the post on a 132 hp carb, the 2.3 turbo carb which always came with the 280 cfm carb without the smaller venturis the non turbo 2.3 88 hp had from 1980-1982. A good 171 cube 2800 cc carb copy. The carb powerband mentions was in 6 cylinder Mercury Capri, Bobcat, Pinto, Mustang II cars that had from 93 to 104 hp.

See http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... b-upgrades

WOW! Decisions, decisions... Thank you very much for the history and insight into this new world I have entered. Currently I have the Autolite 1100 with no casting number at all on it with the automatic choke. I will give all the links due attention and return with more knowledge than I had before we started. Thanks again and I LOVE this forum! WOW!

They also came on 4 cylinder fox-body cars, Fairmonts, and older pintos etc.

Edit: oops I see X said that already... :duh:

Following .

So what I have gathered thru the data that has been provided is, without changing the log style intake to achieve more air flow it really doesn't matter about the carb setup.. some will say there will be minimal gain and/or anything is better than the autolite 1100 that is currently installed, but after reading everything any fine tuned carb will be just fine with the stock intake if adjusted and jetted properly. I think I will stick with the Autolite for now until I end up rebuilding the engine and then maybe mod the intake and switch to a 2bbl setup. Thanks again for the info. Roll Tide.

67Poney":3rl8lsug said:

So what I have gathered thru the data that has been provided is, without changing the log style intake to achieve more air flow it really doesn't matter about the carb setup....

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Good conclusion in your case if you had a 1.6875 throttle, 1.29" venturi 1-bbl carb, but you don't. Any early log head can take the bigger throttle and venturi 1-bbl carb, and make much more power. Any log intake.

If the carb is not the
Motorcraft Holley 1946,
Carter YFA ( see viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72607 )
Carter RBS
Autolite 1101 or
the big bore 1940 Autolite/Holley/ Motorcraft

It won't give you any extra performance.

Its not about jetting, its about venturi size. 1.6875 throttle, 1.29" venturi 1-bbl carb are the only option.

If you use any 1-bbl other than these sizes, you won't get the power increase a 2-bbl Weber or Holley Weber will give.

Pages 3 and 4 of this article affirm that the 1-bbl set up can be made to haul some serious a$$ in comparison to the stock 85 to 95 hp net at the flyhwheel these engines made from 1963 to 1983. But only the 1.6875 throttle, 1.29" venturi 1-bbl carb.

http://classicinlines.com/HA3.asp
http://classicinlines.com/HA3.asp

Didn't want you to be ignorant of the 1-bbl facts either.

There were a few Autolite 1-bbl's (the 1101)and 1940 Holley's (the First 15) with a throttle bore diameter of 1.687 with a venturi of 1.290, these on a small log can still make a 125 flywheel hp, 100 rear wheel horsepower 200 with just some headers, some head work, and a 260 degree cam. That's important when a stock 125, 120, or 115 hp gross engine rating was only 65 hp or so with a 3 speed manual. Automatics were even lower at the axle, less than 55 hp isn't uncommon.

The bigger F100 truck (240 or 300 ) or a one year 250 I6 carb were also replaced with the Holley list 1940's, but only the 1101 Throttle body measures 1 11/16". Venturi measure 1.29" It is rated at 210 cfm. 1.6875" throttle 1969 only 250. There are 15 part numbers listed below in blue, the other 11 in Danger Will Roberston Red are small throttle body versions.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... or-options

It looks like there are a few different versions of the Holley 1940. Ron ( rjseibenick ) at Ford Six is a Tempo racer, and he's measured his 1940 as being a 1.352" venturi carb, although I'm sure that is not the stock venturi diameter for the #R 4529 144/170/200 replacements

If some versions have a larger venturi than the 1946, and the flow rate is 202 cfm as a 1945, and, according to Ron at Ford Six, a 212 cfm rating as a 1940 with a 1.352" venturi.

See link http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=58612&p=449841#p450090
And the Holley carburetors and manifolds book.

ISBN 0-89586-433-9

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51zR2yBC85L.Image._.jpg

Be aware that there are 26 historic Part Number listings of the Holley 1940. Some are generic, non Ford Std parts, others are full Autolite/Motorcraft listings with a Ford basic part number (BPN) with a letter suffix, and with that tag, you can find with 100% certainty that are carb is a big or little item.

I'll bet the 212 CFM ratings with the 1.352" venturi on 250, 240, 300 and older I block 223 and 262's won't be the same as the generic 144/170/200 item.

It is a big 223/262/240/250 or 300 carb if its PN coded:
R 4454-AAS
R 4468 AAS
R 4509 AAS
R 4520 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix A
R 4522 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix C
R 4523 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix D
R 4524 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix E
R 4525 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix F
R 4526 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix G
R 4527 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix H
R 4528 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix J
R 4536 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix Y (an early 223 replacement)
R 4537 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix Z (an early 262 replacement)
R 4692 AAA
R 4696 AAA


It's the little 144/170/200 stand in item if its PN coded as one of the following:-

R 4529 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix K
R 4530 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix L
R 4531 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix M
R 4532 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix N
R 4533 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix R
R 4535 AAS, additional BPN plate suffix T
R 4693 AAA
R 4694 AAA
R 4695 AAA
R 4697 AAA
R 4701 AAA


The listings for doubting Tom Co's, um Thomas'

3 listings http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/MasterList/index30.html
16 listings http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/MasterList/index31.html
7 lisings http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/MasterList/index32.html

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