newly machined '69 250/4.1

chad

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Hey, Listen…
Just beginning to install a 'fresh' (47 y/o) motor and remove my '68 170 in a bronk I've been running since '83.
My assembler started w/o me (he owes me as we have a barter arrangement - have been in this good relation for years) but I wanted to be there. Here's two reasons why (I trust him but wanna learn as I've never assembled an engine):

I have a '69 just machined. Got a head from FLA as I understood the larger log '77-plus would be more desirable. I seek tq only (@ low rev) - a lill different, most here seek HP as I don't want to spin tires (am in dirt most the time). Was shipped a '73 head (by casting #s) eventho I put the money down on a " '78 Fairmont". Anyway, I'll put it on unless I find a C9xx-6090-M as I just learned a very limited edition of the '69 - with the < M > - can be found. "Better runners for the low rev tq" I hear. Back Later with specs on parts ordered and machining particulars done.

So the 2 Qs I'll ask your assistance on (many more as the process unfolds I'm sure) if you'll permit, is about the cam. The machinist ordered all internal parts as well as machining it. It's a Comp Cam. My assembler partially assembled, and as he went, found binding w/ this cam (I believe at the bearings).
* He took it back to the machinist to B turned down "1 or 2 thousands" I believe he said.
* Also the ordered timing set when fitted had to be returned for another one & this one still is not right - I think he's going with the new chain and one of the sprockets (i.e. 1 old/1 new gear).
Seems like 2 unusual developments, no?
I want the '69 to '72 timing set as it's better for my tq goal and can't understand the cam bind. If I wasn't a newbie I might see that these 2 work around strategies are perfectly OK. I have confidence in both the assembler and machinist BUT you guys know these engines better than either of these 2 folks…

Thanks for lookin in & any comments you wish to offer.
 
:unsure: This won't be easy not being there to see it or without some pictures I through out a few items to check. Sounds like there could be a problem with the installation of the cam bearings look to see if they were installed in the correct order (the journals are different sizes larger to smaller) and or if they aren't installed straight into the blocks cam bearing journals etc.. :shock: I would stop and take the time fix what's wrong rather then mod any of the parts, if everything were right it shouldn't be required to clearance those cam journals. The cams journals are highly poshished finish like the crankshaft journals are too. Did he or the machinist mic / or measure the cam journals and or the cam bearing sizes? In the worse case senerieo a bearing could have been Nicked or mushroomed on the edge from being driven into the block in that case it would be better to lightly scrape that damaged area of the cam bearing with a bearing knife or remove the cam bearings and start over with a new set. Not having the correct clearances between the cam and the bearings can effect the oil pressure too. The cam bearing issue may also be part of the reason the timing set isn't fitting unless he miss ordered the parts. But if you wanted to use the early timing chain set (1969 to 1972 about the best of the two stock sets) these early timing sets are the narrow chain and gear set so you can't mix and match any the parts from the 1973 and later wide chain timing sets with the early parts or vis versa. To see the differences see my post in the "250 Double Roller Timing Chain Kit Supply and Demand". Best of luck Chad on the 250 rebuild. :nod:
 
yeah, it seems like amateur (me) mistakes rather than 2 guys w/30 yrs. experience each.
I think the "right parts, wrong engine" might be it.
I'll check what's up in that regard.

"...these early timing sets are the narrow chain and gear set…"
OK, will look at that too.

Thanks ~
 
I wouldn't fret the head to much, anything C9 or later is going to be fine, your getting a valve job anyway so putting later intakes and the 144 or SI valves for exhaust is not a big deal. Maybe the 78 runners are bigger maybe they are, doesn't matter b/c these heads are choked beyond log volume anyway. My only worry would be metalurgy in anything after C9 heads...............
 
Econoline":zj7v2yxa said:
I wouldn't fret the head to much, ..............
OK, thank you (little to no automotive theory here) all Qs I have deal w/increasing tq anyway, not HP.
Wanna make a lill 4WD 'stang tractor.
:LOL:

Additionally,
R U saying a valve change would have helped increase tq while w/the machinist?

Would it be correct to say "low rev higher tq is all in the cam & high flow 1v carb?" No other (easily mod-able) parameters of this engine?

Still lookin 4 a Ford RBS (215 cfm) for low hood issues too. May have to go to the on-line big box guy(s).

prts search & assembly: newly machined '69 250
headers due to arrive in 4 days…
Looked all thru the bushes for a 7x7x3 inch package frm Clifford - $42 for a port divider ($17 to ship) I can't find. 1st it's a FLA head that's not as ordered/paid for, then an AMC carb (195.6 ci, too low flow), now the divider. Assembler's issues w/timing set & cam bind, never had these kinda problems B4. Well, that's it - smooth sailing from here!
 
drag-200stang":33uff2sh said:
Chad BCOWANWHEELS said 19+6 for shipping at summit for divider.

Holly cow, thanks dude. Missed that. Better'n tryin to take the one outta da '69!
CI (Will) mentioned Clifford 4 one. I'll C wasss up wid dem 4 one! Searched the yard for the missin mail again - unsuccessfully.
(CP & the carrier don't wanna help).
Summit, hun… worth a try (same price total i think). thanks again!
 
Hey!
One of each (U rebuild/they do)!

Thanks - I think the 2nd one is for an AMC (440/500).
I have not run the numbers down but the price is out of my reach.

Check my sig now - just got one today! $115.
Let's C if it's right this time...
 
1) " 7145 "
OK, came home to find a Ford RBS today.
(4.5 inches tall, 215 cfm - hope that's it)

2) Also - CI's SS headers arrived @ same time, humm...

May B I'll get the right timing set @ NAPA, the Handbook lists prt #s.
Don't like his (assembler's) idea of mixin the gears/chain of old with new (probably can't due to thickness differences anyway) to fit. Can't understand Y he's havin trouble. I'll go over tomorrow w/the parts'n C.
 
port divider went cross country'n back 2 times. Wasn't Clifford's fault (it seems).
FW is in the shed so no need to search one out. Need to return the 300/4.9 I bought… 2 yrs ago?
Block plate is next, more assembly to do.

Wonderin it the carb hat'n cold air would fit? Bronk's notorious for underhood heat (I never had problems tho).
Would look nice w/an alu VC…
I think I'll stick w/what's there…
(If anything pipe it up to the grill on that exh. side. It's gunna B strange w/those headers).
8- 0
 
today wuz ~ 4 hrs dissasembl/reassemble rocker system. Shaft is nice and shinny now but kinda 'grooved' from the stands. Wire brushed the rust then emery cloth to slip on the stands more easily. Cleaned the 2 holes and insides of the rockers. Reused everything inc. the springs. Kept each item where it was in it's order. Able to reuse even the roll pins. Oiled & thrown in a plastic bag ready 2 add 2 motor after degreeing again (w/right T. set)Same w/ push rods.

Assembler looked in the box (didn't even need 2 open fully) "Hey, this'll work." for the NAPA timing 'set' (sold as individual pieces, 3 day wait).

Cleaned the HB enuff to ID on-line 4 rebuild cost /or/ compair to new pricing. Tomorrow's the FW/Block plate clean…

5 speed looks kinda weird over in the corner. Not Ford, not '60s, not big'n bulkie… second thoughts now (will dissapear after buyin adaptors ! ).

Ahhh, spring-like weather!
 
Assembler displays huge concern about loosing shop. 85 y/o and land lady visits "Place is 4 sale" as she seems to every/every other spring. But this year her husband died (4 - 6 mo ago) so a lill different. He has been there 10 or 15 yrs. — it's in the 'outback', has barns falling down all around. He grows a small ethnic garden each yr., has close to 10 roosters & 15 layers. (Lives 5 mi away). He "cleaned up the yard" (2 'insurance losses' he'd bought to rebuild/sell/make some $ he had drug away 4 scrap, other stock piles of use - all gone). Part of that was to junk a good head I had (see title above). I told him its importance, he made a call to retrieve, I may get it back…

OK, so it seems the pistons R in, I think the timing set is on, the divider is probably not in, head is not on. I delivered a neighbor/his truck there due to another neighbor's lack of time to put into his '89 F250 efi 4.9. Needs the 2nd tank installed, frnt end wrk, starting problems…

My friend broke down getting over there, I hadda get him restarted, get back to p/u a '02 5 speed and was rushed, little to no conversation. The motor was covered, I had to get back (it's 15 mi away) on a time schedule… U no the script — a fast full movie. Not alot of details shared.

So things continue on, as they have, yet progress is made. Any suggestions on type of paint for the engine bay. I just wanna wrap all the wires when removing the motor, scrape, wire brush, sand the whole area and may B only prime the bare areas. Any ideas on how to proceed from there? Most likely will use rattle cans, do have compressor, gun. Just not sure what's a durable choice of paint, appropriate make up. Isn't there an "engine bay paint"?
Thanks ~
 
Time to pull out the 170. I will keep the adj rockers & pan (I may cut up the pan & braze the bolt ring on from the 250, get a 200 rear sump tube & pick up to use in there).

Any suggestions on what else to keep frm the 170? I'm in foreclosure so not saving much. It has in excess of 200,000 mi - 3/4 of that put on by me since '83.
 
chad":1qmcl0os said:
Time to pull out the 170. I will keep the adj rockers & pan (I may cut up the pan & braze the bolt ring on from the 250, get a 200 rear sump tube & pick up to use in there).

Any suggestions on what else to keep frm the 170? I'm in foreclosure so not saving much. It has in excess of 200,000 mi - 3/4 of that put on by me since '83.

grab the pushrods that go with the rockers
 
Oh, OK, I thought they'd B too short for a 250… well, they can B used elsewhere anyway, eh?
I might keep accessory brackets, mmmm, carb…
Thanks ~

Got the '69 "M" head back from the scrapyard where some 1 had dumped it. Only a sm scratch
(not missing any castings) where it may have been thrown off the truck @ the recycler's. Jeesh!
 
chad said:
Oh, OK, I thought they'd B too short for a 250… well, they can B used elsewhere anyway, eh?
I might keep accessory brackets, mmmm, carb…
Thanks ~

I can't say if the pushrods fit the 250 or not, but they are hard to find, someone could likely use them.
 
The 144, 170, or 200 push rods won't work since the 250's have a much taller deck height then the other small Ford Six'es, so their going to be too short. Good luck :nod:
 
OK, head is not on — good I can make sure the #11 & 13 are given attention. Got the HB before Will/Matt made their exchange.
Got the correct NV3550, need to trade back the '98 NV as the AAs will not mate to it. (not all NV 3550s are made the same).

The CompCam came out 4* advanced from the manufacturer as expected. Need to tack in/file the ex. port divider…
C if I can get a 200 ci rear sump oil p/u tube (the screen assembly may fit) so as not to mickey mouse the frnt to rear sump exchange…

1 inch body lift still to go; will wait till removal of the 170 to see if a new clutch is needed but it's pretty certian possibly clutch rod extension (WH has a nice cheep too) one & may B need to tack on a clutch pivot point to the bell.
 
Now the CI site "is down".

@ least it will 'not allow entry' w/o 'authentication'.
I have not downloaded all the tech info there
but
today I wanted to look at some parts to see if they matched up with another company & couldn't "get on".

Any ideas how to access all that good info (tech or parts)?
 
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