2 minutes stall.

So my car runs for 2 +/- minutes at 2000-3000 rpm and then stalls out, or shuts off. No sputtering just shuts down like I turned off the switch.

Here's the back history; car was running but was having plug fouling issues ( see my other post) so I ended up replacing the valve guides. Started it up and decided to check the timing with my new timing light. Adjusted the carb idle mix by vacuum and then moved the distributor. Rev it up to about 3000 to cheek my overall timing and after couple minutes it shut off. Huh!!!??? I restarted it, lowered the rpm and didn't think to much about it as I called it a night. The next weekend I take it out to get gas and take it for a test drive. To and from the gas station no problem, but after a minute on the freeway it shuts down. Coast to the side, restarts ok, off again till another couple minutes and then repeat. Now in my driveway, it runs smooth at 2000+ rpm and it shuts down in 2-3 minutes. So I'm thinking fuel, ( the filter drains out pretty quick when shut off) so I replace the the fuel pump, dropped the tank ( spotless), blew out all the lines and still the same thing. I pop off the top of the carb ( Holley Weber 5200 )right after it shuts down and its 1/3 full.

A couple things I did during my valve guide job. I unbolted the carb and moved it to the side to access a couple valves. ( Sticking float??) I also was cranking the motor over to test the compression. I didn't ground out or do anything to the plug wires, just left them dangling ( fried Pertronix or coil ?). I also played with the idle mixture screw when tuning but the air/fuel ratio is 11-12 ( I have a gauge hooked up) right up till it quits.

Any ideas???

could it B the dreaded 'carb icing'? 2 - 3 min seems too quick for that tho.
If ur carb is well isolated from the exh. manifold's heat and there's some humidity out (I think that's the two conditions) the thing can clog up & starve the fuel on it;s path to the intake (right inside the carb). May B google that (carb icing) cuz I can't remember the solution (a cloths pin on the fuel line?).

I would check the ignition system. I had an issue like that withe my 280z back in the day and after changing the cap, wires, plunges, and coil I had no issue with it. May not be the same car but sounds like the same issue I had.

You could try doing a fuel volume test, since the carb only has 1/3 in it when it shuts off. Good luck

Doing some reading on the Pertronix and FlamethrowerII coil. Coil primary resistance is 0.6 ohms and 9.0k ohms secondary. I'm getting 1.9 primary and 11k secondary, so is it safe to say my coil is shot??!! Would that cause my 2 minute run time???? I don't like my my home multi-meter so I'll borrow my work meter to verify.

Yah, bad coil might be the problem.

Check your fuel filter.

Really.

I had a pertronix unit in a car( 1963 Sunbeam Alpine ), and it had those exact same symptoms. It would intermittently stall for no reason, restart instantly. Finally it would not start so I swapped the points back in. It never stalled again, and I will never use a Pertronix again ( just my opinion).
DannyG

Thanks for the replies, I'm starting to think it's more ignition than gas. It shouldn't be icing ( it's 75* and 80% humidity here in LA). The fuel filters are clean ( tank was surprisingly clean) and I replaced the pump so it should get enough gas, Also it just dies, no sputtering or stalling like running out of gas.

I did find another interesting story while reading up on this. Some guy with a 1966 Mustang he bought his wife was having a similar problem'

The verdict? It appears that the starter solenoid was occasionally hanging up and grounding itself, spiking resistance in the system and causing a voltage drop to around 4-6 volts. That's why cycling the ignition would usually cure it--it was resetting the solenoid and fixing the "sticking" situation temporarily. It's why the problem was so intermittent and so unpredictable. It wasn't sticking enough to kick the starter, just enough to bleed off a lot of excess energy that wasn't getting to the spark plugs and would eventually drop low enough to kill the ignition.

I tested the coil with another meter and it's OK. 0.6 primary and 10.52k secondary. ( the meter leads had 1.3 ohms or resistance) So the pertronix is faulty?? It seems people have a love/hate releationship with them. Love them until you have an issue. I've been wanting to install a duraspark for some time, but kinda hesitant until I know for sure. I don't want to add another element into the mystery.

I think my next step is I'll get a set of points and a coil and try that out.

"...icing ( it's 75* and 80% humidity here in LA)…."
THAT humidity would B enuff & outside temp does not matter, it's the venturi (effect) & can happen in summer, etc.
However, I WILL assent to the experts around here because I am far from one, Just put it up as a 'might B'. I'd also ck grounds -
but again, not a mechanic.

Hey Dan! remember the Sunbeam Tiger? neighbor usta blow my Alfa off the road all the time - a Ford 289 or 302 as I remember.

might be the coil breaking down because of heat.
ck the ohms cold and right after it quits to verify any differance

Slap a known good coil in and test it. Least you'll know what it isnt if that doesnt solve the problem. Had a coil failing on me at track last year from heat....id open hood and the temp change was enough to cool it to where it would fire.

YAHOOO!!!

I finally got some time and put in a coil, condenser and points and ran it for 20+ minutes!!! I first I tried hooking back up my Red/Green wire but no voltage so I ran it with straight 12v. ( i didn't recall where I disconnected the resistor wire when I did the Pertronixs and didn't feel like digging under the dash.) Since I'm running it w/ 12v a didn't want to push my luck on a test drive and burn up the points.

I think it's the perfect time to go with the Duraspark setup. Can someone link me up to the articles/post that has the best info and where to buy? Not sure if I should go with the 4 pin, Blue Strain or Dyna module. I think the Dyna is probably better but I like the idea I can walk in and get a module off the shelf at any autoparts.

Thanks for all the help!!!

P.S. Anyone wanna buy a slightly used Pertronix and Infero coil?? Real cheap!!!!!

Congrats on finding the trouble. Look for the pink wire coming from the ignistion switch its the stock resistor wire. Good luck

Double Yeah!
Blue Strain

Williboy":3kx0fggt said:

YAHOOO!!!

I finally got some time and put in a coil, condenser and points and ran it for 20+ minutes!!! I first I tried hooking back up my Red/Green wire but no voltage so I ran it with straight 12v. ( i didn't recall where I disconnected the resistor wire when I did the Pertronixs and didn't feel like digging under the dash.) Since I'm running it w/ 12v a didn't want to push my luck on a test drive and burn up the points.

I think it's the perfect time to go with the Duraspark setup. Can someone link me up to the articles/post that has the best info and where to buy? Not sure if I should go with the 4 pin, Blue Strain or Dyna module. I think the Dyna is probably better but I like the idea I can walk in and get a module off the shelf at any autoparts.

Thanks for all the help!!!

P.S. Anyone wanna buy a slightly used Pertronix and Infero coil?? Real cheap!!!!!

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Give wsa111 a shout. viewtopic.php?f=86&t=74042