Is an Autolite 2100 worth it on a stock 200ci?

Howdy Back Tom and All:

IIRC the only early 1101 that is a fairly direct swap to a '65/66 200 is the 1101s from '63 and '64 ford cars that had the 233 engines. These are SCV carbs. FYI- the 1101s were adapted for use on other vehicles, cars and trucks, with 240 engines. The only 1101 that was a non-SCV carb was the 1969 1101 from a Mustang with a 250 optional engine. It was the last to use push/pull linkage.

On the linkage adaptation take a look at the '80 head you will be building. If the, "Powered by Ford", valve cover is there it will have several attachment bracket for over-the-valve cover linkage. A fairly easy solution is the linkage and brackets from a Maverick/Comet. If you are junk yarding, get everything from the gas pedal to the brackets.

PS- I've use a variety of 2100s on 200s and 250s and rarely saw a decline in mileage. The exception was a 1.33 on a 250, but great power.

None "Slobbered". Any loss of MPG will be more likely associated with over use of the GO pedal. Re-jetting was seldom needed either. Accelerator pump, idle and power valve tuning were the only tuning needed. Maybe bcowan can elaborate on his experiences with 2100 swaps to a 200 engine.

I played with several Holley 2300s with less satisfaction. WSA111 did internal tuning and gets good results with the 2300s. As you know, He's good help.

Keep your progress coming.

Adios, David
 
This is an Autolite 1101 (early version, SCV). Note how the throttle arm has a left-right movement pattern.



I adapted a throttle arm from an old Autolite 1100 to convert the up/down movement pattern to a left/right pattern.



 
Installed the autolite 1101 on the mustang today. GREAT performance!!!!! That thing moves now....nice improvement, especially at mid-high RPMs.
However, I'm having problems with the idle. Sometimes it idles fine (600rpms), and some times it idles high (1000rpms). No vacum leaks.
I connected the vacuum gauge to read manifold vacuum at idle, it shows 17. With the autolite 1100 it showed steady 20.
I played around with the idle screw..... no changes. Re-adjusted timing.....no changes.
So, although the car runs great after taking off, idle is crappy. I'm a little disappointed on that part. I put back the 1100 until I can figure out what's going on.


T.

UPDATE: I acquired another Autolite 1101 from a '69 mustang 250ci. This one works great. Idle is nice and steady. The other one was from a 240ci motor with SCV.
 
That is good to hear that you got such a performance increase especially in that mid-high rpm range. Probably compliments the T5 well. I had been wanting to see some real world results with the 1101.
Hope the idle problem is an easy fix.
 
bubba22349":1lag7ts5 said:
:unsure: check for excessive wear in the throdle shaft. Good luck :nod:

The carb was recently rebuilt by kp carbs. It is in great shape. I'm gonna put it on again tomorrow and go over every adjustment again. I don't wanna give up on this carb so quick because I really liked the way it performed while driving.
 
Thanks for all the "tech" info about the 2100 on a 200 head. I have built engines for over 4 decades but not this engine...until recently. Two rebuilds have shown me ethanol gas and too much advance can kill number 6 compression ring. After a .060" bore, installing a 1968 dual-advance distributor and using manifold vacuum (plugged the ported vac/sealed the vac-valve on the 1100) with hotter ignition, it runs fine. I have limited total advance to 34 degrees though. My cam has a late closing intake to help keep compression down. Now I am looking at a 2bbl adaptor with 2100 108 carb to run while building a large-log head for the machined intake 2 bbl modification (using the same 2100). Has anyone removed the log end-plugs to clean the intake passages? Any suggestions on areas to work while building the head? I am NOT building for max HP but want to drive any where any time on 89 octane gas while running the Air Cond. and listening to a superior sound system. I am building what I call an LH-6 or "Long Haul 6". I was getting about 24 mpg and I am moving up to bigger rear tires one inch taller than OEM. That should increase MPG by about 1 mile at the same rpm. I built Street Rods so V8's were the norm and my six experience is minimal. At 72 I know what I don't know and I am too wise to hid my lack of knowledge. Any info about this head is greatly appreciated. THANKS!
 
Charlie Cheap":206ffm4c said:
Thanks for all the "tech" info about the 2100 on a 200 head. I have built engines for over 4 decades but not this engine...until recently. Two rebuilds have shown me ethanol gas and too much advance can kill number 6 compression ring. After a .060" bore, installing a 1968 dual-advance distributor and using manifold vacuum (plugged the ported vac/sealed the vac-valve on the 1100) with hotter ignition, it runs fine. I have limited total advance to 34 degrees though. My cam has a late closing intake to help keep compression down. Now I am looking at a 2bbl adaptor with 2100 108 carb to run while building a large-log head for the machined intake 2 bbl modification (using the same 2100). Has anyone removed the log end-plugs to clean the intake passages? Any suggestions on areas to work while building the head? I am NOT building for max HP but want to drive any where any time on 89 octane gas while running the Air Cond. and listening to a superior sound system. I am building what I call an LH-6 or "Long Haul 6". I was getting about 24 mpg and I am moving up to bigger rear tires one inch taller than OEM. That should increase MPG by about 1 mile at the same rpm. I built Street Rods so V8's were the norm and my six experience is minimal. At 72 I know what I don't know and I am too wise to hid my lack of knowledge. Any info about this head is greatly appreciated. THANKS!

Hi Charlie Cheap, many people have pulled the log end plugs it's easy and replacement steel soft plugs are readily available. At the most you will only be able to do a light clean up of the flashing inside the log with the old round log heads. if you had access to a line boring tool you could maybe open up the top and bottom of the log some, the large log though would still beat it on volume. On both heads though there is no way to get access to the intake ports from the log side without cutting open the top of the log or cutting it off, a major project.

Using the 2V to 1V carb adapter you need a bare minimum of a 1 3/4 inch carb inlet hole in intake it will work much better opening it up to 2 inch and blending the bottom of the hole on the sides to help fuel air mix to make the turn. Getting static compression up in the 9.0 to 9.5 to 1 range gives a great improvement, if you CC the head and do all the calic's along with a zero decked block. After that the most befit though comes from opening up the both the valve bowls and narrowing / tapering the valve guides even keeping the stock size valves. Polishing the Combustion Chamber is also good to do as you go above 9.2 to 1 don't know your engine specs but with 89 fuel you may be able to go up to 9.6 to 9.8 just depends on the total package. Next up is installing 1.750 intake valve these are (stock on the later heads) or for higher performance going up to as big as a 1.88 intake along with 1.500 exhaust and porting the exhaust with good set of headers. Adding the center port devider can help a little but only if you take the time nessisary to carefully grind it to fit tightly in place and then at least tach weld it good too. Finish up with Good 3 angle valve job with back cut valves too. Even if your using a stock cam the valve springs are a little weak so installing a set of 289 / 302 V8 springs will give you a little boost in RPM and performance for a modest cost. Most people set up the direct mount carb's in the wrong direction probally because for ease of setting up the accelerator linkage. Maybe it dosent mater all much except during part throdle operation that street cars spend the most time at, but I would do it in the reverse so throdle blades open correctly towards the ports if I was looking for the very best performance. Hope that helps you good luck :nod:
 
bubba,

Great info.
I've read on several sources the benefits of doing a 2V conversion (direct mount) over a 2v-1v carb adapter.
I have a large-log head, a 2v-1v adapter, and a, Autolite 2100 1.01 at home. A machine shop in CA is charging me $1450 to do the 2v conversion and rebuild the head, plus the cost of shipping the head back and forth ($220). If I decide to use the 2v adapter, I'd only have to bring the large log head to a local machine shop for a standard rebuild ($500). Considering the power gain of direct mount over 2-1 adapter, is it worth spending $1700 for a direct mount + rebuild vs. rebuilding the head locally ($500) and using a 2-1 adapter? Is the power gain of a direct mount worth $1K? I'm not looking for V8 power, I just want a noticeable improvement over the stock carb (autolite 1100).

All opinions are welcomed.

Tom
 
Hi Tom, yes there is no doubt that you will get the most performance with the carb direct mounted and its proved by Dyno testing. But in my opion it's not going to be worth spending an extra :shock: $1200.00 bucks to do it unless money is no object. For that amount of extra money I would be more inclined to just open up that log it's easy and cheap to do as described above in X's and my posts and use the adapter that you already have and call it good. But being on a low fixed income In recent years I have to watch my expenses more then ever.. Good luck :nod:
 
I'll be installing an Autolite 2100 (1.01 venturi) on my stock 66' 200ci motor (with large log head, headers, DSII, 2-1 adapter). The carb came with #44 main jets, originally designed for a 260ci.
I'm just looking for any advice on the main jets. Should I leave those jets or try a different size for the initial installation?


Tom
 
Hi Tom, usually I leave the jets alone (use what the carb has installed) until it's running then test and read the plugs. My best guess is that since it's a 260 carb the #44's are going to be fairly close with your Mods. Good luck :nod:
 
"…it's a 260 carb…"
humm…is this the 2nd place I've seen that?

There was 240, 250 & 300 ci.
Not sure if this is a miss print or a reality (now).
:(
 
Not a miss print Chad that was one of the Fairlane V8's (it was part of the SBF family) the first one was a 221, then came the 260, next 289, 302, and 351. Also this is also an Autolite 2100 2V carb not one of the 1Vs originally used on the six'es. Good luck :nod:
 
"…one of the Fairlane V8'…"
oh that's right - I wuz thinkin only straight 6. yeah there wuz a 255 (bent8) as well.
both were dogs frm what I've heard.
:eek:
 
:shock: I had a 260 and drove others it was a good little engine and quite peppy I can't say about the 255 though.
 
Where are things now Tom?

(We'll take this off in some wild directions without a check in of current conditions w/carb, etc…


Get it on again?
read the plugs?
 
Chad,

I just ordered a bung to weld it on the exhaust pipe so I can install my air/fuel sensor and gauge. Once I get the bung ( hopefully in the next few days), I'll install the 2100.
Stay tuned.


Tom
 
"…Stay tuned.."
Yeah, boys!
esp like to see what U get on the A/F gage…
 
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