RichCreations
Well-known member
they also have the single studs for the mains, but at $7 each! They are almost half that from the place I linked to in the ARP thread.Dragonlich1961":21v47wor said:
Building a 200 First build
- Thread starter Dragonlich1961
- Start date
Dragonlich1961
Well-known member
I know that since the 200 has flat tappet lifters a traditional break in (20 ish? min at 2K) is required and can be done in or out of the car( provide you keep her cool.) vechile is not in a position to use.
How would one run an engine on a stand with a ds2 dizzy. I know that a the ds2 requires a Control module, and a few more wires to hook up, I don't have a control module yet.
Or is it possible to Perform a break in with a standard dizzy, and just swap the ds2 in later.
what do you guys recomend for plug wires? I'm leaning towards the set at Vintage inlines. in Yellow or blue. Car and engine bay, will be yellow. Engine will be blue. Black would be factory.( personal opnion not perfomace at all)
i'm sorry about all the questions. Thank's to everyone for the help and support. i'd be lost with out it.
Thanks Chris
How would one run an engine on a stand with a ds2 dizzy. I know that a the ds2 requires a Control module, and a few more wires to hook up, I don't have a control module yet.
Or is it possible to Perform a break in with a standard dizzy, and just swap the ds2 in later.
what do you guys recomend for plug wires? I'm leaning towards the set at Vintage inlines. in Yellow or blue. Car and engine bay, will be yellow. Engine will be blue. Black would be factory.( personal opnion not perfomace at all)
i'm sorry about all the questions. Thank's to everyone for the help and support. i'd be lost with out it.
Thanks Chris
RichCreations
Well-known member
Dragonlich1961":1nd4gngy said:
I can't say about the ignition, but follow your cam/ring manufactures break in instructions exactly including use of ZDDP oil additives, which is very, very important for break in with flat tappet cams (zinc and phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) were removed from oils a few years back due to environmental reasons)
How would one run an engine on a stand with a ds2 dizzy. I know that a the ds2 requires a Control module, and a few more wires to hook up, I don't have a control module yet.
Or is it possible to Perform a break in with a standard dizzy, and just swap the ds2 in later.
A module is only $30.
I'd think you'd wanna use a new dizzy, "break in" the gear at the bottom too. as U do the rest of the engine ~
I'll do a 20 min break in on a stand 1st (B4 install w/new transmis).
Or is it possible to Perform a break in with a standard dizzy, and just swap the ds2 in later.
A module is only $30.
I'd think you'd wanna use a new dizzy, "break in" the gear at the bottom too. as U do the rest of the engine ~
I'll do a 20 min break in on a stand 1st (B4 install w/new transmis).
Dragonlich1961
Well-known member
I'll see what I can do, don't even have the tranny yet, long slow build. I'm at college and can't work on the 61. But I can work on the engine. Not the way I would chose a resto, but hey it works and still moves the build along .
Thinking about just running the stock module for the break it. Means I need plug wires, hmm? Vintage seams to a nice set, not sure what color I want . Blue engine sitting in a yellow engine bay.
Chris
Thinking about just running the stock module for the break it. Means I need plug wires, hmm? Vintage seams to a nice set, not sure what color I want . Blue engine sitting in a yellow engine bay.
Chris
Great work! Thanks for all your hard work!
Chris - for a '20 min break in' I'd want a radiator and an exhaust.
I have a milk crate pallet (holds a stack of 2 square crates high as U want. It is just a rectangle of angle iron on 4 coasters. I tacked on uprights for the motor mounts'n towers, will attach the headers Will sold me (run some pipe I have out the door - smoke & noise) and plumb up a radiator w/the old hoses from the 170. I have a spare 'head' so I can monitor things for the trial run (all the bronk gages R on one unit around the speedometer).
There need B no transmission on this contraption less U want/need that to balance & secure the motor more steadily. Instead of the milk crate pallet U could just have the rectangle & extend 4 legs down far enuff for the pan to clear the ground (I don't wanna rest 480# on my pan).
I have a milk crate pallet (holds a stack of 2 square crates high as U want. It is just a rectangle of angle iron on 4 coasters. I tacked on uprights for the motor mounts'n towers, will attach the headers Will sold me (run some pipe I have out the door - smoke & noise) and plumb up a radiator w/the old hoses from the 170. I have a spare 'head' so I can monitor things for the trial run (all the bronk gages R on one unit around the speedometer).
There need B no transmission on this contraption less U want/need that to balance & secure the motor more steadily. Instead of the milk crate pallet U could just have the rectangle & extend 4 legs down far enuff for the pan to clear the ground (I don't wanna rest 480# on my pan).
Dragonlich1961
Well-known member
I understand the radiator. You have to simulate it being in a car. It won't stay cool with out it. Exhaust is for my ears. To support the engine the first time I ran the engine, before tear down, I bolted the trans bell to the stand as well as the motor mounts.
I ran the old engine with the old one barrel no exhaust original dizzy. Using an old Chevy radiator from my father's 56. I've never run it with the ds2 and never did a break in on a stand. The break in was the major problem. I've got a long way to go before the break in.
I'll need to source a new ring gear for the flywheel. Looks like Mac's has one for the 9". 136 tooth I think.
Pistons rings and arp bolts showed up. Block is done except for zero deck, needed pistons. Head is rebuilt. Just need to mill surface. I'll have to have the crank done else where. Machinist normally out sources the crank. Crank machinist has broken wrist. Grr damn it Murphy, leave me alone.
I ran the old engine with the old one barrel no exhaust original dizzy. Using an old Chevy radiator from my father's 56. I've never run it with the ds2 and never did a break in on a stand. The break in was the major problem. I've got a long way to go before the break in.
I'll need to source a new ring gear for the flywheel. Looks like Mac's has one for the 9". 136 tooth I think.
Pistons rings and arp bolts showed up. Block is done except for zero deck, needed pistons. Head is rebuilt. Just need to mill surface. I'll have to have the crank done else where. Machinist normally out sources the crank. Crank machinist has broken wrist. Grr damn it Murphy, leave me alone.
Dragonlich1961
Well-known member
Out of shear coincidence, my school just got a new engine test stand, complete with aluminum radiator, oil pressure, temp, tach and fuel contaner. hmm, perhaps i can be a guinea pig.
Build won't start for atleast another 2 weeks.
Build won't start for atleast another 2 weeks.
Dragonlich1961
Well-known member
Finally got the engine back from the machinist. Looks good. Will be reassembling over the next few weeks.
Still need to order a new ring gear, (possibly just flip and reuse mine). Possible pushrods. Plug wires and a new adapter for my 32/36. Appears the one I have is for a small bore as the bolt holes (to head)don't line up. (Came with the carb when I bought is from a gentleman I met at a car show with a blue falcon with a 6).
I'm also curious where you guys plumb in your mechanical gauges. I have the factory dash "guages" and some aftermarket ones that are mechanical. I'd like to make both work. Oil and coolant. I was thinking of just taping into where the second plug is in the left side of the block for oil. For the coolant I was thinking t-stat housing. I have two, one is alum (no plug), other is cast iron/steel which has a threaded in plug which I think would work for coolant temp.
For the fun of it I'm trying to identify my old carbs, both 1v's. One is a Carter yf(came with 68 block). The other is a motercraft(came with my 61, which has a 65 block) my instructer said early 60's.
I'll get some pictures tomorrow.
Thanks chris
Still need to order a new ring gear, (possibly just flip and reuse mine). Possible pushrods. Plug wires and a new adapter for my 32/36. Appears the one I have is for a small bore as the bolt holes (to head)don't line up. (Came with the carb when I bought is from a gentleman I met at a car show with a blue falcon with a 6).
I'm also curious where you guys plumb in your mechanical gauges. I have the factory dash "guages" and some aftermarket ones that are mechanical. I'd like to make both work. Oil and coolant. I was thinking of just taping into where the second plug is in the left side of the block for oil. For the coolant I was thinking t-stat housing. I have two, one is alum (no plug), other is cast iron/steel which has a threaded in plug which I think would work for coolant temp.
For the fun of it I'm trying to identify my old carbs, both 1v's. One is a Carter yf(came with 68 block). The other is a motercraft(came with my 61, which has a 65 block) my instructer said early 60's.
I'll get some pictures tomorrow.
Thanks chris
Dragonlich1961
Well-known member
Couple of questions regarding the use of arp bolts. The packaged instructions say to use a different torque then the falcon hand book, I'm assuming that I need to use the supplied listing by arp?
Next question is in regards to the arp head stud kit. Since it's technically a main stud kit does the torque rating change from the supplied listing?
Next question is in regards to the arp head stud kit. Since it's technically a main stud kit does the torque rating change from the supplied listing?
RichCreations
Well-known member
NO, the ARP torque specs are for a different application, as they don't make kits for our motors...Dragonlich1961":13wff092 said:
I used the recommended torque specs from the CI ARP page here:http://classicinlines.com/Arp.asp
Dragonlich1961
Well-known member
Thanks Rick.
Slowly but surely I'm getting there
Now to finish everything else.
De casting line the head
Enlarge oil holes in rocker shaft.
Order larger carb adapter for 32/36. The one with the carb is for a small bore.
Order water pump.
Set ring gap and ring pistons.
De dent my oil pan. Grr. And valve cover
Change valves springs to comp cam supplied springs.
Purchase cap, rotor, adapter, wires, plugs, and control module.
Paint.
Then Assembly can begin.
Slowly but surely I'm getting there
Now to finish everything else.
De casting line the head
Enlarge oil holes in rocker shaft.
Order larger carb adapter for 32/36. The one with the carb is for a small bore.
Order water pump.
Set ring gap and ring pistons.
De dent my oil pan. Grr. And valve cover
Change valves springs to comp cam supplied springs.
Purchase cap, rotor, adapter, wires, plugs, and control module.
Paint.
Then Assembly can begin.
Dragonlich1961
Well-known member
Progress is slow due to it being assembled in a classroom seting. just my and a trusted fellow classmate on mine. Everybody else has their own project engine.
some picture to keep your guys entertained.
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Before and after
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Badly Dented oil pan. Guessing someone jacked the car using the oil pan once.
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Dent in the front of the pan resulting in a battle between pan and rotaing assembly... rotaing assembly won.
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Carter that came off my 68 block,
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Motercraft that came off the 65 block that came in my 61
[image]
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Still learning this photobucket deal.
some picture to keep your guys entertained.
[image]
[/image]Before and after
[image]
[/image]Badly Dented oil pan. Guessing someone jacked the car using the oil pan once.
[image]
[/image]Dent in the front of the pan resulting in a battle between pan and rotaing assembly... rotaing assembly won.
[image]
[/image]Carter that came off my 68 block,
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[/image][image]
[/image]Motercraft that came off the 65 block that came in my 61
[image]
[/image][image]
[/image]Still learning this photobucket deal.
"…Still learning this photobucket deal."
& doin quite well!
Which carb U think you'll use? either?
The 'stamped' #s on the YF tell the story (ifn U wanna look em up).
Yja grind off that casting line, it's not in the way of anything is it?
Very nice job on that pan, don't 4get to check the results done to screen & tube…
& doin quite well!
Which carb U think you'll use? either?
The 'stamped' #s on the YF tell the story (ifn U wanna look em up).
Yja grind off that casting line, it's not in the way of anything is it?
Very nice job on that pan, don't 4get to check the results done to screen & tube…
Dragonlich1961
Well-known member
To me an engine is a work of art, and the casting lines just don't do it justice. Like a half finished job.
I'm going to be using a 32/36. Not pictured.
This engine was bought this way. Pre removed from car. Think it was the po. Nothing a hammer and dolly won't fix. Little welding of the battle wound. Grr
Plan is to use a new oil pick up tube if possible.
Still need to track down a water pump and the remaining parts for the dizzy.
Also need to order the carb adapter for large log,(have small log adapter) and cam pin.
My instructor ran the numbers on the Carter and said it's a 70's AMC. How'd that end up on a Ford?
I'm going to be using a 32/36. Not pictured.
This engine was bought this way. Pre removed from car. Think it was the po. Nothing a hammer and dolly won't fix. Little welding of the battle wound. Grr
Plan is to use a new oil pick up tube if possible.
Still need to track down a water pump and the remaining parts for the dizzy.
Also need to order the carb adapter for large log,(have small log adapter) and cam pin.
My instructor ran the numbers on the Carter and said it's a 70's AMC. How'd that end up on a Ford?
Try VintageInlines for the pin, I just saw 1 listed.Dragonlich1961":1x64w2xd said:
We try'n support "our own" (members).
How? - 51 yrs, just a few owners (yeah, right!) and the need to keep something running.
Nice choice on the carb.
YFs were used on lots of the 6s (and other cars/trucks) for many yrs. They're purdy good Didn't change mine out for near 40 yrs (I think 'the alcohol' got it). I think that carb was made for a smaller engine than yours. You can run it down if U want by going to the carb sites and entering the numbers in the box they provide. That way U can sell it to the specific model owner. If you do U can recoupe some of the funds U put inta the ford6. I IDed 1 that way to avoid a carb for an approxamatly 50ci smaller motor AND ID one for my exact engine.
Dragonlich1961
Well-known member
I saw that vintage had the pin. He also has the needed adapter and plug wires. Gladly support him.
Figured that about the carb. But it works so why not. I wonder if the motor craft is the original carb that should have come off my 61. It's a 65(200) that some swaped in. Should have had a 144. I think the original engine kicked the bucket and someone swap the 65 using some of the original 61 parts,(cheap).
The rocker pedestals are coded C0. For which I may need to find a new shaft.
Thanks
Figured that about the carb. But it works so why not. I wonder if the motor craft is the original carb that should have come off my 61. It's a 65(200) that some swaped in. Should have had a 144. I think the original engine kicked the bucket and someone swap the 65 using some of the original 61 parts,(cheap).
The rocker pedestals are coded C0. For which I may need to find a new shaft.
Thanks