Lifting a six

adamscm

Well-known member
Hello All, I'd love to hear how you all have lifted a straight six (200). Mine is on an engine stand and I have a hoist. The head and exhaust manifold are already on. I'm basically wanting to know the best attaching points for the chains. I can also get a leveler if necessary. Thanks!
 
Mine has available bolt holes on the driver's side front of the block, and then on the passenger side rear of the manifold. Just keep everything above center of gravity. Just curious..where did you hook on to pull it?
 
I purchased the 200 from someone who had already pulled it out of a Mustang. I don't know what they did. When I put it on the stand, I had the head off, so it was easier. I had been thinking right side generator bracket mount and left side-the hole that the clutch pivot goes into. Ths 65 block doesn't seem to have any specific lifting holes.
 
There are a few threads with a variety of solutions out there.
Later models like my '78 came with factory brackets.
You can see the blue one in front and there's one back by the transmission kickdown
NewEngine01.jpg

enginepull2011.jpg

Might be able to find a set of those on a junkyard Fairmont.
Here's one thread with another idea: And no leveler! :shock:
viewtopic.php?t=55499
IMG_6173.jpg

I'd suggest using a junker valve cover, or padding it to protect it from damage.
 
Thanks, That last pic looked like the spots I was considering. Wish I had those lifting rings from the later models! I won't have the bell and trans, however. By the way, what are those lifting rings bolted to?
 
Mine is the same way. The front is sandwiched between the block and accessory mount, and the rear is integrated into the automatic transmission kickdown linkage bracket.
 
I had the front bracket on a '75 250, but no rear lift bracket, so I designed one using the stock throttle linkage (2 bolts) and copied its bend.
Then I worked with Clintonvillian who converted my measurements into DXF/DWG and I cut out a new set.
Rear
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IMG_1219_zpsmzfgazrg.jpg

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Front
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There is still a problem though, the spot on the block where the front bracket bolts on has different bolt patterns between the 250 that I pulled the original measurements from, and the 1970 170 that I am using in these pictures.
But how many of us really use more than a single bolt hole for the chain anyhow?
You could use the single bolt/loop from the next picture.

The top 3 brackets on this are for lifting sixes, Clintonvillian designed the largest and smallest ones for lifting a 300, the other one is a fresh cut rear small i6 mount.
IMG_1214_zpstu5oktlr.jpg


The single bolt/loop could also be used for older motors with the round log, but using it to connect to the rear most exhaust manifold bolt.

If there was interest, I could buy some more 7g and have a few cut out.
-ron
 
Ron, That's awesome...good ideas. The only thing my 200 doesn't have is the throttle linkage holes in the head, and I'm hoping to leave the exhaust manifold on when I install it. But I'm getting good ideas.
 
I've got a 1967 200/C4 sitting on the shop floor with the round style intake log.
When I get home, I'll snap some pictures and see what I can come up with.

The neighbor I bought it from used a chain with a huge (roughly 4" diameter) hook on the end of it to loop under/between the intake and exhaust manifold at the back of the head, I can't remember what he hooked onto at the front of the block.

I bet I could make a big C-clamp style contraption that wraps around the intake and uses a set bolt on the top side to lock it in place
Or, maybe I'll experience total lunacy and built a large T-shaped hook that slides down into the intake runner track (after unbolting the carb), like the bent8 guys have that bolts onto the carburetor attachment bolts.
 
Yes, I'd like to see some pics of what you come up with. I wasn't sure if lifting by the exhaust manifold was a good idea. At the moment I'm looking at the generator braket holes on the right (psgr) side and the clutch pivot on the lower left.
 
With a long block I pull a couple of head bolts, swap them for some old throwaways, and lift it by those. No fears of breaking anything and it's much more stable with a low center of gravity.

Somehow I usually end up with the head pulled anyway, and it's easier yet with a short block. A little bubble wrap and painter's tape, and you won't even have to pull your freshly painted hood...

IMG00171.jpg
 
I've done some experimenting, and it looks like good attaching points (with head on) are a generator bracket hole on front right of block, and the clutch pivot hole on the rear left of block. The chain ends up pressing against the valve cover a bit, but I'm using an old, "sacrificial" cover. I'll take photos of the process, hopefully this weekend!
 
When I was in high school, no money , I would get my brother to help me set the short block by hand and I would finish the rest my self. The 4 speed top loader was the hardest to do alone. :banghead:
 
BCOWANWHEELS":7e935orv said:
why would you pull or install a engine with the hood on ?????????????????????

Fresh paint job with carefully aligned fenders and hood, and I was working alone in a single-car wide garage. I didn't want to risk damaging the paint on the hood doing an r&r by myself.
I short-chained it, took it slow, got the angle right and snaked it in a bit at a time, slid in no problem.

P3160236.JPG
 
ok, I'll give you a pass THIS time!
But no more shenanigans!

engine installation with the hood on... sheesh... kids these days.
 
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