Push rods

6

64-5mustang

Well-known member
I'm sure it has been asked but what years was the ball and cup push rod used as I have a 200 who know what year and a torn apart 170 with adjustable rockers and 11 push rods that will be going on the 200
 
I have a 65 motor with adjustables. But I'm thinking in 65 you might have ended up with one or the other depending on time of year, supply, etc.
 
64-5mustang":v9p6aafp said:
I'm sure it has been asked but what years was the ball and cup push rod used as I have a 200 who know what year and a torn apart 170 with adjustable rockers and 11 push rods that will be going on the 200
Click to expand...

First, what is the casting code on the 200 block? Casting code located on the exhaust side of the block where the freeze plugs are. This will tell you what year engine it is. Casting code should begin with an alpha character designating decade: C=60s, D=70s, E=80s. Second character designates year. So a C3 = 63, C5 = 65, D7 = 77.

The casting code for the head follows the same nomenclature.

The cup and ball push rods were on the solid lifter engines, 60-64 with the adjustable rockers.
Some 65 engines had the adjustable rockers, transition year.
 
64-5mustang":20mm74b3 said:
I'm sure it has been asked but what years was the ball and cup push rod used as I have a 200 who know what year and a torn apart 170 with adjustable rockers and 11 push rods that will be going on the 200
Click to expand...

All the 144's, and early 170's plus a few early 200's had the adjustable's. Stock they are all the same lenght, so find another that matches your 170 set and you will be golden. Good luck :nod:
 
Thank you all for the replys I only need one rod as I am putting the adjustable set on the 200 the non adjustable one on it doesn't quite close the valves sadly this motor had a mismatch history before I got it.
 
I'm doing the same thing...I thought non-adjustables would be simpler, but valve action doesn't seem right, even causing some missing and valve knock in at least one cylinder. Best to have two people to adjust them though when you install them. Each valve will have to be in its closed position, lash taken out, and 1/4 turn extra (opinions vary on this, but that's what I'm going with). I'm just going to have someone turn the crank with a wrench (plugs out) while I view and adjust from the top...I've made a paper template--a circle divided into thirds, that I will put on the crank. each third of a turn, the next cylinder will be at TDC (1-5-3-6-2-4). Of course, you have to correctly have #1 at TDC compression to start.
 
I was reading this older thread and it got me thinking. The CI site instructs that the valves can be adjusted by having cylinder #1 at TDC fire and adjusting half of the valves, then one rotation to #6 at TDC and adjust the remaining valves. Is this a fail proof method regardless of cam configuration? I did it this way and seemed to have more noise than I expected out of these hydraulics.... With new shorter rods coming from RAU I really want to put this thing to bed!! Had that cover off more than a few times so far. Help from you experienced professors would be fantastic.
 
:unsure: yes that is an accepted way to do the valve adjustment it's one of severial. Another and posablely the best way at least in my opinion is to set each cylinder at TDC on its compression stroke and adjust those two valves then turn the engine to continue to the next cylinder in its firing order and repete until finished with the last two valves with total of two compleate rotations of the engine (720 degrees). Good luck :nod:
 
Thank you bubba! I think that might possibly save me and extra step after its back together. I will try that this time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top