Cam Advice

T

timray87

Active member
I received my new aluminum head/intake a few weeks ago, and I'm looking to drop it onto my running 200 right now, which has about 90k since last rebuild (.030 over). The current motor seems to run fairly strong, but burns a bit of oil from a broken valve seal which will be irrelevant with the new head. I don't want to pull the motor and do a full rebuild until I'm ready to drop serious money into the bottom end to handle 20+ PSI; that being said I want to make sure my thinking on a new camshaft to match the motor/transmission is correct. From what I've been reading it sounds like the 264/264 - 108? 110?112? is the correct camshaft for this temporary build, that way I don't have to get a stall converter for the auto that's in here now, right? The motor specs are: 200CI, Stock 8.7:1 pistons, Dual-out headers, Dual Exhaust, HEI, and I'll be putting on an Autolite 4100 1.08v once I install the head/intake.
I will probably add the 1.65 ratio rockers down the road, but not right away.
Does anyone have experience installing a cam on a 1970 Maverick without pulling the motor? I'd think you could just take out the grill and radiator?
Thanks!
 
I installed a 264/264 110 in my 78 Granada 250 by pulling the bumper, there was room under the grill but that was my car. The cam sounds really nice in it and no additional stall seems to be needed. Good idle. Weber 38/38 fired up right out of the box! I can tell you that you might need to move the crank around while you are pulling and installing the cam. Mine was so close there was no way it was coming out without a couple movements of the crank. Have fun man!
 
It's similar for the early mustangs - pull the grill and radiator to swap cam without pulling the block.

Get a factory shop manual if possible. It'll walk you through what you need to know for doing the job for your model year car.
 
where & how much for the factory mechanic's?
i got one 4 a bike (750 cc) once for $60.00 (a 70s model in 1984)…
thnx!~
 
Over the years, I've used a main library for factory manuals. Photo copied what I needed.

Ford dealers have done the same, with hard to find info. I just talk to the rep in the service dept.
 
AutoZone has had an excellent on-line manual for close to 2 decades (DataCom or some such name) but has an expensive subscription rate. Also it covers ALL makes and models. (not what I'm interested in).
You must have a good library (big city?).

"…take out the grill and radiator…"
the bronk has a lill different setup & we use a 4.5 grinder w/cut off wheel to cut a lill square out. These tig & mig welders can put the chunk back in w/o warping the metal much or havin a big ol ugly beed. U DO need to make it big enuff cuz the cam often needs a lill 'up'n down' wiggling to slide in.

"…the correct camshaft…"
U'd probably know more about what's 4 the alu head (if not look on that forum here on this site) but the "80% of the REVs" rule still holds I'd imagine.
 
I think you may be referring to alldata, which some libraries carry free.
It may only go back to 1982 though.
St Paul and MPLS. does have some good access.
 
78 granada":115r684h said:
I installed a 264/264 110 in my 78 Granada 250 by pulling the bumper, there was room under the grill but that was my car. The cam sounds really nice in it and no additional stall seems to be needed. Good idle. Weber 38/38 fired up right out of the box! I can tell you that you might need to move the crank around while you are pulling and installing the cam. Mine was so close there was no way it was coming out without a couple movements of the crank. Have fun man!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice, I remember having to do this on a Camaro I used to have. I imagine a pretty good performance boost? What's the difference between the 108, 110, and 112?
 
Thanks!
That's another nice one 4 some1 like me (no automotive theory).
Along w/bubba's earlier graph I begin to understand.
 
hotroady":3nes4o45 said:
2 and 2. had to say it.

http://www.compcams.com/technical/FAQ/LSAproperties.asp
Click to expand...

Haha thanks I'm not much of a math guy! Thanks for the link, that's very helpful. I'll probably go with the 264-264-110 and bump up to a larger cam once I rebuild and decide to turbo this thing!
Other then visually inspecting the cam bearings when I take the old one out, is there a way to tell if they need to be replaced? If I have to replace them, I'll just rebuild the whole thing right now.
 
"…rebuild the whole thing right now.."
that could B $7/800 in parts alone (standard kinda specs)…
Y not just do what U need? U seem to have a staged upgrade in mind -
 
Other then visually inspecting the cam bearings when I take the old one out, is there a way to tell if they need to be replaced? If I have to replace them, I'll just rebuild the whole thing right now.[/quote]


First, pull the cam straight out by attaching long bolts in cam end to get a good hold.

Clean cam with solvent and dry. Set cam on V blocks, measure journals for tolerance.

Use a dial indicator to check for out of round condition.

Make sure that new cam is clean, lubed and put in straight.
 
chad":2b3g68cc said:
"…rebuild the whole thing right now.."
that could B $7/800 in parts alone (standard kinda specs)…
Y not just do what U need? U seem to have a staged upgrade in mind -
Click to expand...

I plan on replacing just what's necessary now, although if the cam bearings are bad I'll probably just pull the whole thing are rebuild it; wouldn't I have to have a shop press those in?

hotroady":2b3g68cc said:
Other then visually inspecting the cam bearings when I take the old one out, is there a way to tell if they need to be replaced? If I have to replace them, I'll just rebuild the whole thing right now.
Click to expand...


First, pull the cam straight out by attaching long bolts in cam end to get a good hold.

Clean cam with solvent and dry. Set cam on V blocks, measure journals for tolerance.

Use a dial indicator to check for out of round condition.

Make sure that new cam is clean, lubed and put in straight.[/quote]

That make sense. I haven't ever seen a six pulled apart to know if I'll be able to see all the bearings for visual inspection from the top?

Thanks for you help guys! Is Vintage Inlines up and taking orders now? I'd like to support them if possible, I'm a small business owner and would love to support a new small business.
 
Usually a close visual inspection of the cam, tells the tale. IF something looks suspect, than I'd do the procedure.
No, can't get a good look without; the pistons/rods out of there, just what you see through cam holes.

Yeah, installing cam bearings, not really a DIY ITEM.
 
Aren't cam bearings generally the least worn of all bearings, and replaced b/c they don't survive tanking?
 
Econoline":1ccazrn8 said:
Aren't cam bearings generally the least worn of all bearings, and replaced b/c they don't survive tanking?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback, I figured they would be fine but you guys have much more experience, especially with these 6's than I do.
 
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