170 CI Distributor Measurment Question

Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum. I'm looking to upgrade the ignition system on my 64.5 Mustang with the 170 6 cylinder. I see that all the distributors fit only the 5/16th hex drive. My question is where to take the measurement? Can I just pull my rotor off and measure it there? Any help is seriously appreciated.


Thanks !
 
The 5/16 hex drive is going into the oil pump you will need to pull the distributior out to measure it. Good luck :nod:
 
That is a cool Mustang you have. Is it an automatic?
According to my copy of the Six Cylinder Performance Handbook if your block casting number is C4DE or earlier you have a 4 main motor and are stuck with the early Dist.
Check your block casting code.
 
Hey Darrell !
I remember U from some PMs we kited back'n forth.

That's some good info.
I'm esp interested in the "dual sump".
Sounds like the pick up/screen/tube has a mounting tab, it goes to #4 main cap AND is rear sump oriented…
Did U happen 2 C it's part #?
 
"…Hope that helps…"
"…number on the pickup screen…"
THAT sure does. 2nd prt # given here (need 2 check 2 C if they're different).
I'm hopin to find a long tube (w/tab already on) to make a rear sump fora 250.
Thanks
"…(pick-up's) tube mount tab is on bearing cap #3 and the screen/pickup goes into the rear sump. The part number on the pickup screen is
D9BE-6622-AA, so I guess this means it was from my 1979 Fairmont …200 6 cyl. …"

now back to yer regularly scheduled program, sorry 4 any interuption
 
bmbm40":1sk1al83 said:
That is a cool Mustang you have. Is it an automatic?
According to my copy of the Six Cylinder Performance Handbook if your block casting number is C4DE or earlier you have a 4 main motor and are stuck with the early Dist.
Check your block casting code.


Yes it's an automatic. We pulled the distributor last night and it was 5/16th. I'm pretty sure the car still has a generator, do I have to put an alternator in? I'm trying to put a budget together.

Thanks for all the feedback
 
Hi, the bottom of the distributor fits into a hex shaft which drives the oil pump. Early engines used a 1/4 shaft. You need to pull the distributor and be able to replace it so rotor points the same way it came out. Some of us put the timing mark to top dead center, and sometimes we just see where the rotor is pointing. You can measure the shaft very easily using a 1/4 inch socket on an extension. If you do have the early engine with the small shaft you can still upgrade with Pertronics, hotter coil and bigger gaps on the plugs. Good luck
 
An alternator is not required for a DSII upgrade as far as I know but you will probably enjoy the benefits of an alt and some inexpensive upgrades like the headlight relay wiring harness.
 
1965 was the first year Ford went to Alternators they are an easy upgrade X2 and they are an good improvement, a Generator works fine if you were wanting the keep it looking all stock. It all depends on the other Mods you are planing or if your adding additional equipment like a big Stereo system, more lighting, etc. Good luck :nod:
 
"...additional equipment like a big Stereo system, more lighting, etc...."
or sompin like my Pull Pal (under hood) mig welder.
:LOL:
:eek:
 
bubba22349":1afcw7no said:
1965 was the first year Ford went to Alternators they are an easy upgrade X2 and they are an good improvement, a Generator works fine if you were wanting the keep it looking all stock. It all depends on the other Mods you are planing or if your adding additional equipment like a big Stereo system, more lighting, etc. Good luck :nod:

Not only this, but replacement alternators are all 60 amp now (vs 42A back in 65, and 30A? for the generators), so upgrading to a $40 alternator from the generator, doubles the output of your charging system, as well as actually charging at low rpm...
 
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