Pushrod for a 66 170

hucklburry

Well-known member
First post, love this site, Thank you.

I have a 66 Bronco, I believe it is the original engine, 170. It sat for 10 years, I have it running, but had a ticking noise under the valve cover, pulled the cover, and found #2 cylinder and #5 each had 1 pushrod not in the rocker arm, they were laying over to the side, still in the hole. #5 was bent, the top 1" of the pushrod, #2 seems fine, but I am going to get 2 new pushrods.

The lifters are moving, not stuck, I am assuming it got so far out of adjustment it let the pushrods get out, or maybe I over-revved it and floated some valves? Anything to check while I am fixing it, feel free to speak up.

My problem is, all the on-line sources except CI have the pushrod length at 8.23" or so. This is mechanical/solid lifters and adjustable rockers.

A good one of mine measures 8.030", ball and cup, 5/16". CI has that 8.030" as an option, but no where else does, not napa, oreilly, etc. Now just to be clear, I measured with a tape measure, and a metal square ruler, it falls between 8-1/16" (8.0625") and 8" even, so I am going with the 8.030" from CI.

SO:

Is there a p/n for the 8.030" length?

Does this mean my engine has had work, heads milled, maybe alot? It shows 91K miles, seems realistic from the other wear (this Bronco is pretty nice) but who knows. It is still LOM carb, 3 on the tree, etc, just cut rear with old school rancho lift and 31s. It came with the original spare tire on the original spare rim.

I used this site quite a bit to make sure everything is working, rebuilt the carb, LOM is working, vacuum advance works, set initial timing unplugged at 12*btdc and it advances when plugged back in, etc.

My imediate intentions are to drive it for the summer as is, and I believe it will run nicely, and long term I think I want to keep it a 170 but improve drivability with duraspark/header/carb or EFI. I would love to do 1.6 rockers while I am doing this, but for this engine it is kind of pricey.

Thank you for the help! --Jim
 
W E L C O M E !!!
Congrats 4 the purchase AND keepin it a sixer!

I'd follow up with a purchase of that "Handbook" as it's pretty helpful in understanding your rig AND upgrading it.
Also make sure to peruse ALL of the CI site BUT purchases (same reason). The founder reciently died and the site is not shipping even if taking $. We "need to get the keys to turn it off".
Lastly, if you can I'd also suggest you get the push rods from VintageInlines (a brand new co.) as we want to support the continuance of a member who's catering to us exc;usively. If we keep it up at some point he'll be able to reduce his prices! :eek:
:LOL:
:stick: :eek:opsie:
 
Since it sat unused for 10 years and then kicked out the two push rods, you need to make sure that those valves are not stuck. Good luck :nod:
 
I ordered the pushrods and the book from Vintage, it went very smoothly.

After spending some time with it, looks like 3 valves were sort of stuck, one is free now. The other two go down with effort, and take quite a while to return back to closed. I have them soaking, but wondering if maybe they are bent. I'll take some time this week and see if they get any better before pulling the head.
 
hucklburry":3udk22b4 said:
but wondering if maybe they are bent.
don't 4get the guide itself . It's probably buggered.
 
Well the valves have gotten a little better, and I have been working on my boat more for an upcoming trip. I found a 1980 200 from a fairmont that I might get, pretty cheap, with trans. Low mount starter, so it would have the 4 of 6 bolts line up for a more modern 5 speed (into a 66 bronco, maybe the mazda trans from an F150 mated to the Dana 20 in the Bronco) I think.

Is an automatic from a 1980 fairmont worth anything to anyone? I wont need it. (St. Louis, MO area).

I would have the head worked over on the 200 and run it on the 170 for now, with plans on using the block for an engine/trans upgrade a little later.

Maybe I should wait for a 250 and just rebuild the head I have, port the exhaust and intake and maybe get a header. I don't know if its worth putting bigger exhaust valves in (hardened seats for sure) with this 170. I've been reading the Falcon book about the intake sizes, etc. Maybe I just pull the original head, fix it, put it on and run the Bronco the rest of the summer.

I'll probably decide on getting the 200 or not early next week. I don't really want to store the 200 block but I can, and maybe I should just get a 250, or keep it stock and make the 170 the best I can. For the money, its probably worth getting the 200 for the head, and put my money in that, and install it on the 170. The 200 is pretty inexpensive, with claims of only 60k miles (who knows).
 
Hi, the Fairmont head is one of the best you can find. If the old head does not come around the 200 head is a good choice. I'm cleaning up a 200 head for my 66 Bronco and keeping the old adjustable rockers. I'm doing light grinding and polishing, new valves and springs, and the machine shop will do new guides and seats, and resurface the face and exhaust sides. That should hold me for another 25 years. Keep reading that Falcon handbook. Good luck
 
Sounds like there R lots of options 4 U now. You;ve 'opened up' a lill from your original plan of stock (or what I interpreted as such). That's great.
Two things I'd like to say, and I don't consider myself an expert or a mechanic (wish I wuz both).

These two considerations can B diametrically opposed (depending on U). One: the bronks became a big deal in the 90s when the net started growing. Folks all over the country began chattin them up. Prices soared. There's a segment of the net U can visit representation of a huge trend happening in the whole "older vehicle' movement: orig. paint, no real mods, if it could B called pristine: original. Not sure if you've seen another - roadster dot com or whatever the U13 site is but they R the concourse correct rep of the 1st 3 yrs. of this particular model ('matching numbers, orig. style head liner, etc, etc). That's restoration. Your vehicle seems like it could fit either trend quite easily. U could accomplish this for yourself or to place into a very high resale mrkt. That would be my suggestion. You would learn a good deal about the era, model, market, modification, and (if like me) skill in doing the job.

Two: After the sale you'd B so bleedin rich ( yeah, right ! ) & you'd be so smart (all the research on after mrkt upgrades) U could build anything U want. Get another bronk & really go thru it. A lill tung in cheek here. But seriously, this leads to a very important point. You really need to a) do your research 1st (seems Ur well on the way there - for the motor anyway, by use of the CI site, Handbook, this site), make ur plan AND b) stick to it through the build (to the end). I've seen too many 'hack' jobs due to plan changes mid stream (some right here). Most important because a bronk is a multipurpose vehicle and the specific application can confuse. If there's options (ie transmission, doors or whatever) plan out how the change would effect the rest. A motor vehicle is a system and a change in one part requires changes in other parts to pull off well.

So back to the eternal question on a project like this: What is the final application for this use? Concourse (I'd suggest that w/sale, U got a good start on that), restomod, full on specialty vehicle, or some combo? I've been using mine as a wrk vehicle for 33 yrs and will retire it as a DD/mild trail vehicle (opposite of what I've used it as).
 
If you can store the 200 and it is cheap definitely get it if you can still. When you have it you have more options and solutions. If you need to replace your head it is a good one and are getting harder to find. Can you get the carb, air cleaner and DSII? Also get the exhaust manifold, bell h and the accessory brackets including the power steering parts. You will really enjoy power steering in your Bronco.
Even if you get a 250 down the road which in my opinion is the best six for the Bronco you can keep driving until you get that final solution set to go in.
And look into that five speed it is a great addition to the driving experience.
Good to see more Bronco's on here and 66 is my favorite.
Let us know how you are doing.
 
I've been in Broncos since 1992, I had a 72, I have a 69 Bronco that I have sitting next to it a 92 Mustang engine, explorer heads/intake, ZF and Dana 20 adapter, its lifted on 34s and is uncut. That is my toy, I want to find a 351 roller block for it, it has a detroit in the rear and a trutrac in the front, I regeared it to 4.11/4.09.

I wanted one with a 6, and I am learning about them now (this site helps a bunch), its very original but cut and lifted, I converted to disc brakes and dual master cylinder for safety. This one will pretty much look 66 (stock dash, seats, rear seat, etc) but I don't mind upgrades for power or safety under the hood. It sits on 31s and looks good. I'll post pics once its running.

I am getting the 200 this week, the valves got worse so I will pull the head and have the 200 head gone through, port/gasket match what I can, take it to the machine shop, and put it on with the original adjustable rockers to match the 170 blocks solid lifters.

Thank you
 
170 for matching #s
200 for a square motor
250 for the low rev tq
"…this site helps a bunch…"
like 'e said - get the Handbook, really ck the CI tech pages.

I'd do the 300 nxt time. That would B my keeper.
Bronco Driver had the best I;d seen (pushed the motor down AND back).
:nod:
(y)
 
Econo - now I'm gettin info that contradicts what I've heard 4 yrs.
the 250 I hear weighs ~420/450. Some now R sayin the 300 is still below 500#.
My 2 concerns were w/the 300 U get quite nose heavy 4 a lill bobtail & the decision to move the fire wall or radiator.
I'd choose the radiater but the off rd worthyness would B effected. Moving back would require alot more but is better.

I better get off this topic - form another thread if goin too far,
such as askin "wouldn't U rather have THAT in ur van ! ? !"
 
Well I don't know what I am going to do now.

The engine was advertised as a 200, which was pretty standard in a 1980 Fairmont, and low mount started (what I want to run a newer 5 speed). Turns out this was a Fairmont wagon, and a beauty with 60k miles (he is swapping in a V8) and the block is a 250 (D8-BE), which I had read was an option in a 1980 fairmont, but didn't think that is what I would find.

So I bought it anyway. 8) Its sitting in the garage.

From what I have learned, its a flat top head, with smog (I can block that off).

So I could:

1) Mill down the head and run it on the 170 (seems like a waste of a good engine/head combo)
2) swap in the whole engine/head, with the correct bell housing to mate to the Bronco 3-speed (its still column shift). This EB is/was stock except for cut rear and an old school lift - Rancho front springs and blocks in the rear, it sits a little front high (the springs were meant for V8s) so the 250 will probably settle it nicely really and at some point I will put in newer Bronco house springs front/rear
3) swap in whole engine/head and a 5 speed at the same time - more than I wanted right now, I wanted to enjoy the column shift for awhile

I am assuming once I mill the head to fit the 170, it wont work on the 250 later - I could store that block until I am ready to swap it.

5). Maybe I store the engine, and just fix the 170 head to drive the Bronco for awhile while I gather parts.

Anyway, I am going to finish working on the boat, I have a fishing trip to go on and it needs a little love for 5 days on the water. I am leaning towards 2 or 5.
 
You did good that is a nice find a low mileage good running 250. When you feel like it you can source a 5 speed and get the 250 in. I did not even know the 250 was in Fairmounts.
Or like you said put it in and enjoy your column shift I miss mine it was fun to drive. Also like you said fix the 170 so you can keep driving until you finalize your plan.
 
:beer: congrats X2 if it's that low Mileage 250 I would probally save it compleate to install it and enjoy it as is. Yes if you cut the head that much to use on your 170 then it won't be of use later on for the 250 build you be better off to fix that 170 head in that case. By the way a late 200 or 250 head has exactly the same combustion chamber. Good luck :nod:
 
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