65 Mustang DD carb and dist. upgrade help

S

Slobin3d

New member
after fiddling and researching and fiddling and researching..... I've decided that for this car and its intended use, a carb and dizzy swap is in order. I have the load o matic setup on a 200 ci, and a c4 auto. I was looking at the summit HEI distributor. opinions and or recommendations? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850052


I'm not sure about the carb. I dont think a 2bbl is needed or worth the effort. I'd prefer reliability, ease of tuning and economy over speed and power. not sure what to go with as an upgrade.

As a note. The cars intended use is for the Mrs. to Daily Drive in the summer and maybe cruise night. I want it to be as easy to start as we can possibly make it, and run well so she doesnt get stranded somewhere :beer:
 
Slobin3d":24mdgdfl said:
after fiddling and researching and fiddling and researching..... I've decided that for this car and its intended use, a carb and dizzy swap is in order. I have the load o matic setup on a 200 ci, and a c4 auto. I was looking at the summit HEI distributor. opinions and or recommendations? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850052


I'm not sure about the carb. I dont think a 2bbl is needed or worth the effort. I'd prefer reliability, ease of tuning and economy over speed and power. not sure what to go with as an upgrade.

As a note. The cars intended use is for the missed to Daily Drive in the summer and maybe cruise night. I want it to be as easy to start as we can possibly make it, and run well so she doesnt get stranded somewhere :beer:
Click to expand...
Get a recurved DSII dizzy from wsa111 on the forum instead of the HEI, just my 2c but the summit HEI I got was chinese junk
 
I'll have to look into it. I'd really kinda of like to keep the original look, ideally a modern distributor with a pertronics or similar, no msd box, and use a coil. Can the carb be reused without the oem distributor? Is it worth upgrading or is there a viable 1bbl upgrade?
 
W E L C O M E !!!
to our site and
the best forum here.

either will be stealth & all (99%) will not see the upgrade. If really intent on this use a DS I.
I even believe (not positive) U could put the 1904 (glass bowl) on w/o the LOM/SCV.

It's just what U seek - reliable, easy tune, economy (low purchase price/better mpg).
Y not have some fun and read all U can at classic inlines & with falcon6handbook dot com
to complete your research?
 
Slobin3d":2nqjuuxq said:
I'll have to look into it. I'd really kinda of like to keep the original look, ideally a modern distributor with a pertronics or similar, no msd box, and use a coil. Can the carb be reused without the oem distributor? Is it worth upgrading or is there a viable 1bbl upgrade?
Click to expand...

X3 a DuraSpark II is a very good if not the very best upgrade for a Daily Driver and for a Stock (Stealth) look you can (X2) use the DuraSpark I type cap plus install the ignistion control modual in under the dash with a custom wiring harness. This is the plan I have for my next project, and am also considering making these custom DSII wiring harnesses' to sell if there is any demand.

The next best option for a stock looking distribor is the 1968 (1967 in Calif.) up to about 1974 point type distributor these have the better centrical advance system. Use a Mopar Chrome or Orange Ignistion Control Mudual again hidden inside. This will provide a good hot spark and the points will last almost forever. A Pertronix would also work good.

Yes the carb can be used without the LOD distribor and with some mods even be made into a ported vacuum. As for Carb upgrades there are quite a few if you want to use a little bigger carb like a 1968 Autolite from a 240 / 300 or the 250 version, the Carter's YF or RBS, Holley 1940 or 1946 also work well and there are even some new copies of the old Holley 1904 design being made. Good luck :nod:
 
Howdy Slobin:

I thought I'd add my two cents too. My first experience with upgrades on my '65 Ranchero way back in the beginning was to add a '68 distributor, which has centrifugal and vacuum advance and an Autolite 1101 from a '69 Mustang with a 250 engine. This was back in the late '90 before I learned the details and shortcoming of the stock SCV 1100 and the Load-O-Matic distributor. It was stone stock in appearance and really woke up the 200. No module, stock coil, fuel line, linkage and air cleaner were all stock. The Autolite 1100 and 1101 are identical externally. The only modification was to flare out the carb hole inlet to accommodate the larger butterfly valve of the 1101 which I did by hand with a rat-tailed file.. This distributor and carb are linked with a ported vacuum line. Stone stock in appearance. The only down side is that this is still a point type distributor so setting and/or replacing points periodically is necessary.

FYI- The 1101 Autolite is rated at 210 cfm while your stock 1100 is rated at 185 cfm. And the '68 distributors centrifugal advance will also add performance over the stock Load-O-Matic ignition system.

As Bubba and others have suggested, there are many options open to you now. Study up and than choose, but keep us posted on your progress. And keep the questions coming.

PS, the first generation of the DuraSpark ignition system has a stock appearing distributor, but requires a module that sits on the left inner fender. It is an excellent system and only surpassed by the DuraSpark II.

Adios, David
 
thanks all for the info, answered my questions in a day compared to 2 weeks searching. I have 0 mustangs at the junk yard, where might i find the parts to do the conversion? distributor and carb?
 
wsa for the DSII plus it will be custom curved for you setup. And there was an 1101 on the parts for sale on this forum.
 
bmbm40":2rzqdrxv said:
wsa for the DSII plus it will be custom curved for you setup. And there was an 1101 on the parts for sale on this forum.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up, it was sold, but a link to a similar one on ebay was there. much useful!

I read about having to file for the butterfly. That just matching the carb bore to the intake? I'll have to chat with WSA
 
Yep.
Get the Falcon Six Handbook- it is worth way more than what it costs.
 
"…That just matching the carb bore to the intake?…"
yeah - some use a rat tail, I use a millbastard or 1/2 round file.
Care needs 2 B taken in keeping the metal filings from droppin down in (oily rag stuffed in is kinda a block w/'glue')
Feather it like a funnel - flaring out the top edge to the diamiter of the butterfly plus a lill to prevent it catchin as it pivots.
 
I agree with the DSII dist, from wsa111. This is after running the Pertronics for years. Easy install and fired right up. And in my opinion, it still looks stock, all Ford OE parts. Your only going up to the 1970s, you'll still be 40 years behind the times in technology and appearance!!!!!
 
Several of the Econoline guy's have swapped over to one of the Daytona Universal 1v carbs and all have been very happy with them.
 
That Daytona carb looks very interesting! Basically an updated 1904?
 
Thanks for all the helpful replys, keep them coming. The misses wants me to try 1 more time to make the oem stuff work....... so I'll be getting upgrades soon, but have to honor my promise. Lol
 
So I fianally got the ok to replace the oem system. The PO had replaced cap and rotor, points, plugs, and had the carb "tuned" to make it run right. I found that the vacuum advance wouldn't hold, not that it mattered as the hard line has been siliconed in, and had come loose. They buried the idle screw to keep it running, and adjusting the idle mixture screw had no effect except to kill the car if turned too lean or rich.

So after too long, I am shopping for parts again
 
$35 for the DSII 'box',
$125 for the DSII distrib,
$120 -150 for the 1100, YF or Holley 1946?

Sound bout right? Other conversion parts for this change from SCV/LOM? Oh, new wiring for the first 2?

It'll drive like a new vehicle.
 
Your numbers match what I was thinking. Been looking at 1946 carbs as I can't seem to find any 1101's. Is there anything special I need to swap them? I've looked into the handbook too. Seems hard to get, and those who do sell it, I think hand deliver it from across the country as they charge a lot for shipping that takes 2-3 weeks.
 
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